How to hold a circular saw

[Cesar Vega]

I've just got one, a hand circular saw, and never used one before.
I read all the manual, yes I read it.

And the most important safety and usage points about this specific (hold it) I read were:
- Always hold the saw with two hands
- Don't be inline with the saw
- Don't change body position during the cut.
- Never use your hands to hold the cutting panel.
- Use the wider side of the support shoe on the holding piece.

Now, watch this guy in a dewalt commercial, he switches position and kept that ackward position through all the cut:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44gRuA7yGak

This guy showing how to make a jig, uses the wider side of the shoe on the cutting side holding it by hand, it cuts from right to left and to left to right interchangable:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CH5dW-QcgeI

This "expert", show how to do it, adn though he never turns it on, he is using the wider side on the falling piece:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFCJ-1rpuYs&NR=1

So, I'm concluding 4 things:
- You can only follow all manual rules with short cuts because all the length you have available is of your arms and the bend of your back.
- For long cuts, in order to follow the manual rules, you'd have to use it left handed.
- Nobody is holding the cutting piece or they're end up holding it with the hands.

So? What's the correct way?

[Larry Edgerton]

In reality there can be no hard and fast rules because of the many things that you ask a skil saw to do.

I do have one hard and fast rule however:

If it does not feel right, I find another way to do it.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Cesar,

Always know where the blade is at all times.

I know a person who was remodeling a residence and cut their femoral artery usign a CS. They were working by themselves. They had a tough time using the telephone to call 911 while applying pressure to the artery to keep from bleeding to death. It nearly cost this person their life.

[glenn bradley]

I am right handed and so when possible use my right hand (I may use two hands depending on position) if not, I'll use the left. I determine the hand based on the safest position to be in to make the cut. Generally if you are positioned awkwardly to make the cut, you are not setup right. Stop, correct the clumsiness factor and start again.

Perfect world; I use my right hand on the trigger, left on the forward grip, stand to the left of the saw and walk it along the cut.

P.s. The right handed guy in the first video was doomed from the start; bad position, bad prep and camera angle taking priority over safety. Yield = poor video.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Whatever you do - don't hold it like Tom Silva does a lot of times!

I love TOH and ATOH, and Tommy Silva is a god - however - he's going to be a few fingers short some day.
I've seen him many a time grab a circ saw with one hand and drape the other hand over the top of the saw.:eek:

How he's gotten away with that bad habit for so long is a mystery.

[Cesar Vega]

Cesar,

I know a person who was remodeling a residence and cut their femoral artery usign a CS. They were working by themselves. They had a tough time using the telephone to call 911 while applying pressure to the artery to keep from bleeding to death. It nearly cost this person their life.

Well, yeah, that's my secondary fear: the legs.
If I manage to hold the circular saw with both hands, so no risks for the hands, but if at the end of the cut, I just can't correctly hold the saw while still spinning, the inertia will guide the blade to me if I still holding it... but then, that's why there's a blade guard... right?:(

Now, if for some reason the table or horse holding the piece to be cut fells towards to you with, the guard won't be able to close and again, it will go against you... is that how that accident happened?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Cesar,

I'm not sure how the accident happened.

The person who got injured was a coworker whom I had worked with on a number of occasions at various places around the country.

I was talking to another coworker/friend who knew I was remodeling a bathroom and he asked if I'd heard about this other person's accident.

What he did tell me was that this other coworker cut the femoral artery using a circular saw....had a hard time applying pressure to it while dialing 911.....and nearly bled to death.

[Cesar Vega]

Perfect world; I use my right hand on the trigger, left on the forward grip, stand to the left of the saw and walk it along the cut.

But this only works for thin panels, right?
Again, you can only go as far as your arms + your column...
or
If you're on the left side of the saw and in front of the work, then you're using the thin part of the support shoe, right?

[Stephen Cherry]

One thing to remember is that experienced people are chopping themselves up with these saws regularly.


Two hands on the saw makes it pretty difficult for the saw to get to your fingers (although it wants to).

[David Cefai]

My take on this:

- Always hold the saw with two hands
Absolutely.
- Don't be inline with the saw
You can only be in line with the saw if cutting a short piece so this is not too much of an issue. However remember that a kickback will send the saw flying back and if you're in the way.........
- Don't change body position during the cut.
Doing this means moving your feet, means the possibility of tripping while holding a spinning saw. It also means the possibility of twisting the saw and getting kickback.
- Never use your hands to hold the cutting panel.
You ARE holding the saw with both hands aren't you?
- Use the wider side of the support shoe on the holding piece.
I would rephrase this as "Use the wider side of the shoe on the part which will not be loose at the end of the cut."

When cutting large panels all the above translates into standing by the "to be loose" piece with the saw riding against a fence clamped to the "other" side.

Make sure that the cord will not get caught by anything and that you will not cut it. Double check the ground, that there is nothing that can trip you up.

I support the cut off piece as well as the main panel. This usually means having to stop the cut to re-position the supports. Pull the saw back a few mm and let the blade spin down in the cut. When you restart ensure that the blade is properly aligned in the kerf and the blade is still pulled back. Take the opportunity to re-position yourself before you start the saw.

You will need to plane the cut edges to clean up where you stopped and restarted but on the other hand you should end up with an unaltered finger count and no blood on the wood.

I hope this helps. It has worked for me for 30 years.

[John Toigo]

I'll add a couple things.... Be careful where you put the saw down. If it's still spinning it could run on you. Don;t put the saw down on the cord. Just bear in mind - the blade doesn;t much care what it cuts. Wood & meat are all the same to the blade.

I'm right handed but I am very fond of my left-handed PC saw. I find it much easier to see what I'm cutting & don;t have to lean over the saw.

[Jeffrey Patrick]

Cesar,
If at all possible, you should seek the hands-on advice of a trusted co-worker or friend. You probably know someone with experience... ask them for help.

In reading all the advice above it is obvious that the primary danger with a circular saw is kickback. So the main thing to keep in mind is to avoid kickback. Some rules:
1. Don't try to cut any sort of curve... take great pains to keep the cut going absolutely straight.
2. If you have to stop cutting midway through... hold onto the saw until it comes to a complete stop without removing it from the wood. Before starting again, back it up a bit so the teeth are not engaged. Take care that the saw is heading in the correct direction, get a good grip, then turn it back on.
3. Don't ever go backward with a running saw!
4. Watch out for the offcut piece... don't let it fall awkwardly and pinch the blade.
5. Support the stock firmly.
6. Wet wood will often warp while being ripped... this may pinch the blade and cause kickback.
7. Keep out of the way as best that you can but don't compromise control for it.

You'll learn which rules you can shade after becoming very experienced. If you watch professional framers, they "break" the rules all the time. But, hopefully, they know what to expect and can compensate.

[Cesar Vega]

One thing to remember is that experienced people are chopping themselves up with these saws regularly.


Two hands on the saw makes it pretty difficult for the saw to get to your fingers (although it wants to).

You almost make me run to home depot to return it! :confused:

Most wood suppliers here offers free cutting service, so I can go with my cut plan and get all my pieces already cut.
I just need a cut here and there sometimes.
So, I bought this instead of a small table saw because it is less bulky, and I also thought it could be easier.

Now, that I read all this stories, seems a circular saw is actually more dangerous than a table saw.
What do you think about this comparison in terms of safety?

[Mark Beall]

You almost make me run to home depot to return it! :confused:

Most wood suppliers here offers free cutting service, so I can go with my cut plan and get all my pieces already cut.
I just need a cut here and there sometimes.
So, I bought this instead of a small table saw because it is less bulky, and I also thought it could be easier.

Now, that I read all this stories, seems a circular saw is actually more dangerous than a table saw.
What do you think about this comparison in terms of safety?

Personally, I'd say a table saw is more dangerous (as pointed out above, if you're holding onto a circ saw with both hands, it's really hard to cut off your fingers). However both are if used improperly.

For a lot of what it sounds like you might be doing you can do this:
- Get a piece of foam board insulation.
- Put what you're cutting on that.
- Hold down the piece by kneeling on the larger side facing where you want to cut (now you're not in the line of the blade). You can't do this with small pieces, but you don't want to be trying to cut very small pieces with a circ saw.
- Set the blade so that it just cuts through the wood (you don't want to cut all the way through the insulation board).
- Keep both hands on the saw as you make the cut.
- After the cut, let the saw spin down before putting it down on anything (sometimes those blade guards can get stuck).

mark

[Keith Westfall]

Now, that I read all this stories, seems a circular saw is actually more dangerous than a table saw.

In reality, the saw is no more or more less dangerous than any other tool. Left to itself, it won't do anything dangerous at all! Only when we get a hold of it, does it change it's possibilities.

While reading the manual, you discovered that there is no "right" way and a lot gets lost in translation.

As was suggested, if you are not sure, or comfortable with it, find someone to show you, but be aware that "they" might not do it right either. (asking 10 guys = 10 different answers).

Take your time, and you will discover that it is pretty easy to use and will be as safe as your working habits permits.

Don't rush into a cut, don't stretch beyond you easy reach, and BE AWARE at all times of what you are doing.

It is, and can be a very useful tool if used with care and attention.

[Randall Clark]

John T.

I purchased a left-handed saw by accident, but found that I like it much better. I can see what I am cutting better, as you said. I thought I was just weird. (still may be in other crucial areas)

[Cesar Vega]

John T.

I purchased a left-handed saw by accident, but found that I like it much better. I can see what I am cutting better, as you said. I thought I was just weird. (still may be in other crucial areas)

That's what I say!
At homedepot it was just one expensive Dewalt model with the motor on the left side.
But I also think that would much easier to cut with a saw that way.

I'm trying to understand what's the logic in supposedly right-handed saws, about having the blade on the same side as your holding hand is.
(Just check the first video link).

As I said, it seems the only way to follow all manual rules about holding the saw will only works with cuts smaller than say, 30 inches at most, when you might not need to move your feet, depending on length of your arms and height.

Now, if you require to walk along to work and comply with the rule of using kneeling the larger side of the show on the holding piece, then, you will have to take your ""right-handed"" saw with your left hand and the auxiliary handle with the right hand.... or.... put your arms in a very ackward cross position... or.... just holding with the right hand, again like the dewalt guide video.

[Cesar Vega]

With the risk of reinventing some that already exists, I came out with a sort of jig to put on top of my bench work, so I don't worry about the cutoff piece falling down, nor the circular saw falling down toward my legs.

It will need several clamps, but the idea is here:

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=1b28d240fdd03fa9955ecf93b23ffb46

And will only work for pieces no bigger than the top of the bench.

[Cesar Vega]

Cesar,
If at all possible, you should seek the hands-on advice of a trusted co-worker or friend. You probably know someone with experience... ask them for help.

In reading all the advice above it is obvious that the primary danger with a circular saw is kickback. So the main thing to keep in mind is to avoid kickback.

Thanks a lot for your comments.
I have a further question. I understand what a kickback is and why it happens, but what I don't know is exactly what is the behavior of the saw being kickbacked.
I mean, the saw direction is always from bottom to top. So in the case of a jam, the saw would be pushed backwards, but also, somehow like downwise... but I read people saying about the circular saw flying... that's what I don't get.

[Cesar Vega]

I am right handed and so when possible use my right hand (I may use two hands depending on position) if not, I'll use the left. I determine the hand based on the safest position to be in to make the cut. Generally if you are positioned awkwardly to make the cut, you are not setup right. Stop, correct the clumsiness factor and start again.

Perfect world; I use my right hand on the trigger, left on the forward grip, stand to the left of the saw and walk it along the cut.


And now, here is a girl showing how to correctly hold the saw, according to the manual:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C2yCZf29fv4

Though, as I was complaining about, it only works for small cuts where you don't require to walk along the cut and it look very uncomfortable at the end of the cut anyway.

[Tom Rick]

Thanks a lot for your comments.
I have a further question. I understand what a kickback is and why it happens, but what I don't know is exactly what is the behavior of the saw being kickbacked.
I mean, the saw direction is always from bottom to top. So in the case of a jam, the saw would be pushed backwards, but also, somehow like downwise... but I read people saying about the circular saw flying... that's what I don't get.


A "Kickback" is the saw running backwards with the blade acting as a wheel to propel the saw back towards the operator. If you are still holding onto the saw- its motion in a kickback will be somewhat circular as the saw rotates around an axis defined by your grip on the handle for center. So in a weak hold, imagine the saw as having a dowel through the grip with the saw spinning around the dowel.

Try to always support the workpiece so the 'drop' falls clear and does not pinch the blade.

I mostly cut with one hand and never worked with any framers who insisted on a two hand hold of a circular saw. Just keep in mind what will/can happen to the tool if the blade binds and be prepared for a kickback. With my old 13amp sawcat I could over power the kickback in any normal sawing position. If doing off position work be very aware of how the saw can move if you do not have a good muscle group to control the tool.

Much like any other portable power tool- the skill saw requires muscle to counter its tendency to have to tools force move the tool away from the workpiece instead of through it.
Any weak wrist position if very dangerous for drills and skill saws... With ANY portable power tool- be aware of how the tool will move if it binds and be prepared to counter that force with your muscles.

Strong- 'normal' sawhorse cutting: bent elbow push cutting with tool level.
Weak- tool level but cutting across in front of the operator. If the tool binds it will twist the wrist and may swing fast enough to cause injury if any body parts are in the way.

[Conrad Fiore]

I may have missed it, but I didn't see this mentioned. The platten of the circular saw is used just like the blade height adjustment of a table saw. Make sure you adjust the platten so that only a tooth protudes below the material being cut. You don't want more saw blade exposed than is needed to cut through the thickness of material being cut.

[Don Alexander]

anybody who uses a CS without having a pretty firm grip on it is playing with less than a full deck

as with any other sharp powered spinning thing your brain is your best, and most important, safety device ........ ALWAYS put your brain in gear BEFORE using any power tool ....... if what you are going to do seems really risky it most likely is ; stop and find a better way to do what needs done :)

[John Toigo]

I belive the design of the 'right hand' saw was to keep the blade as far away from your body as possible. I still like the lefty. So much in fact that I have three of them. But then.... I have multiples of everything.

[David Prince]

You cannot go into a cut being scared. Respect the saw, but being frozen with fear can cause you to be so tense that the saw will fight you if you have a bind.

I know my right hand isn't going to be cut off as long as I am holding the trigger. My left hand is normally far enough out of the way (most of the time). Standing up is the normal position. Standing behind to the left would allow the saw to drop and fall to the right should there be an issue and would therefore fall clear from your legs.

A two handed cut isn't normally a comfortable position nor practical (usually).

If you bind, let off the trigger and hold the saw in place until it winds to a stop. If you cannot hold the saw straight out with your own muscle, then it is too big for you. Find something smaller. There are times when the saw is gonna buck. You have to be able to ride it out or hold on long enough to let it wind down. Letting go and running away at that very moment is not an option!

A regular circular saw is a baby pup compared to a worm drive. Now that is a pitbull!:eek: But, my experience with a worm drive is that it has a hard time binding because it chews through just about anything.

A sharp blade helps a lot also.

Remember, respect the saw, but don't be afraid of it!

[Rick Markham]

Cesar, as said before, adjust the height of the platten so that the teeth are just protruding below the surface of what you are cutting. It will reduce tear out (ragged edges) so always cut the "finished side" (the side of material that people will see face down. If you take the time to adjust the platten to the right height, you can solve most of your worries for managing the workpiece by building a simple cutting table. If fits across two saw horses, breaks down for easy storage. and you can support the cutoff piece and the workpiece. It takes less than an hour to make, and will save you tons of headaches and backaches from sitting on the ground.
Here is mine:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/Rick357/018-1.jpg

The most important thing to remember if something doesn't "feel right" or doesn't "seem right" or might be "dangerous" don't do it. Take a few minutes and figure out a better way to cut something. Don't take shortcuts to "save time" and put the saw down and take a break if you are tired or frustrated by something. If you pay attention, you will be safe. If you don't your risking your safety ;)

Certainly DO NOT, do what some "stupid people" do and cut something supported across your leg... it sounds ridiculous but some people think it is ok to do this, until they do their leg in.

Take your time, build the cutting table (it will give you a good chance to get familiar and more comfortable with the saw) and happy woodworking! Don't be scared of it, just be smart about it and take your time and learn your tool ;)

[Robert Boyd]

I agree with Rick.

The most important thing before turning the saw on is to make sure everything is properly supported including the cutoff piece.

I think most of the accidents happen when you try to hold the saw with one hand and hold the cutoff piece in the other hand as you're making the cut.

Rob

[Richard Gonzalez]

The cutting table shown above is a great idea, but if you are just starting out and not sure how to make one, an easier approach is to buy a 4 by 8 sheet of foam 1-1/5 to 2 inches thick (they have it at home depot, lowes, menards, etc). Should cost less than $20. Lay it on the ground. It will fully support both sides of whatever you are cutting (plywood, 2x4 etc.). Let the blade cut into the foam - it will last for a long time. You can put your weight on one side of the cut, the other will not fall when you cut.

Try to get the foam that is not composed of little white pellets - the blue stuff is great.

If you want to get off the ground, lay a full sheet of plywood across some 2x4s resting on sawhorses (to keep the plywood from sagging) and use the foam on top. Then whatever you are cutting goes on top of the foam.

[Chris Brault]

Cesar, you should try to find somebody experienced to show you some techniques. And i also agree about being "tense" with the saw. If you are afraid or not sure about a certain type of cut, don't do it. I had experienced carpenters helping me when i first started running them. Then, after awhile, you get less tense and more comfortable. Always get a good grip on the saw, before you hit the trigger.

[Marty Paulus]

Cesar, The first video shows the guy using a track saw. While yes it is technically a side winder circular saw you cannot compare his technique to what you will use. Yes he changes position but the track keeps the saw in line. It is not easy to do this with a regular saw. The second thing I noticed is he is using the foam sheet under the cut like someone else mentions. That is an idea I haven’t used yet but makes sense in that the offal doesn’t fall away or otherwise move when the cut is complete. That way you can keep your hands on the saw and your fingers away from the blade.

The second video is a variation on the track saw. What is important to see with both videos is the saw is running on a guide. The person is not ‘free-handing’ the saw for a cut. When the saw is guided it is more difficult to twist the saw and cause the kick back.

The third video is not bad for a beginner. However the only issue I see is that he does not adjust the blade depth. Of course that is a debate on this board as well. If you are using the foam insulation then you almost have to keep the blade depth very shallow so as not cut through the insulation. Also the second video shows the use of saw horses with sacrificial tops. Again the blade depth was set to just clear the bottom of the board. With the saw horses it is important if you are using metal horses. They make a lot of noise and a mess if you try to cut into them with a wood saw.

As is stated the saw is no more dangerous than any other saw. The first two videos show that the use of a guide is very helpful. If you are careful you will not have any problems.

[Will Rowland]

Cesar,

I'm not sure how the accident happened.



I've got a good idea...I have seen more than one guy rest a board across their leg and crosscut it with a CS. Around here, the concrete guys building forms seem to be notorious about using that "technique".

[Mike Cruz]

Hold it by the handles. ;) :D

[Alan Schwabacher]

One other detail: how do you reconcile a long cut where you need to move, with the idea that you should not change your control of the saw during the cut? It's OK to walk along with your saw during the cut as long as you can keep full control of the saw and move without risking your own balance. If that's not easy, just stop the saw, and leave it in the cut as you reposition yourself, then start it up to continue the cut. Any awkward movement is made with the saw off.