spindle adapter- aluminum vs. steel- advise

[Michael Ginsberg]

I am upgrading from a lathe with a 1" spindle to 1 1/4". I bought new inserts for my chucks, however, all my accessories are 1". I need to get a spindle adapter to convert faceplates, vacuum drums etc. Packard offers steel which is not hollow (I would have to drill it hollow). Hartville and Craft Supply offer aluminum that is hollow. I am not sure which would be a better way to go. Any input welcome.
Michael

[Richard Bell CA]

Michael:

In my opinion steel is the better way to go. It is stiffer, stronger and more durable than aluminum (particularly in the threads). I had the same situation a couple of years ago and used this adapter.

http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-LA11418-Headstock-Spindle/dp/B000KIADBS/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1287160824&sr=1-2

The Amazon photo is wrong, it actually looks like the customer photos. It is nicely machined and very reasonable priced. I drilled mine out on my metal lathe, but there is no reason you could not drill it out on your wood lathe with the right bits and speed. I did have to shorten the 1" thread section slightly to fit all my accessories. Just be sure the thread pitch (number of threads per inch) is correct for both ends.

Good Luck

Richard

[Roger Chandler]

Micheal,

I have the spindle adapter Richard spoke of from PSI as well, and it is very well machined, and I was surprised at the quality for the price.

I also have aluminum adapters on my vacuum chucks, that came with my Hold Fast chuck heads. they are very well made, and I think they are the ones that Packard and Hartville tools sell. You should be okay with them for most things, but for a very heavy blank, the steel would be better, and you would not really need a hole drilled through for roughing, etc.

[David DeCristoforo]

The adaptors from Craft Supplies are steel, not hairluminum. I just got one from them and also got one of the hairluminum ones from Packard. The steel one is much "nicer". I just don't trust hairluminum for stuff like this. But that might "just be me". As to the adaptor being hollow, you only need it hollow if you are using vacuum. If you are, a small (1/4"+/-) hole is all that is needed.

[Michael Ginsberg]

Thanks Guys...
I bought an aluminum adapter that is hollow for my vacuum chucking AND a solid steel one for strength for faceplate work. I guess best of both worlds....

[Nathan Hawkes]

I had an aluminum adapter from Craft Supplies shear off when roughing a bowl, with the tailstock in place. Talk about pucker factor!!:eek::eek: I luckily was not hit with the piece, but sure said a few choice words. They refunded my money and I sent back the sheared off adapter. Don't plan to be doing big work on a faceplate with an aluminum adapter---I managed to get mine bent and out of alignment so that using a chuck was impossible with the old thread. I now have one from Best wood tools, which I'm more than happy with. It has a flat milled in the side for a wrench, and a hole for a vacuum chuck. Again, it is worth the few extra $$ you spend. It is perfectly aligned, with zero runout, extra-thick and heavy. Admittedly, I can be aggressive with my roughing out, but the aluminum shearing off scared me a bit. There are a couple companies that make long adapters and extenders out of aluminum, which seem to be giving way to steel ones. The aluminum ones come with a warning to only use for finish cuts, because they WILL BEND! I guess I didn't realize how easy it is to bend aluminum. I'm of the philosophy that you save up for the higher quality item available, (in general, not just the adapter), buy it once and don't look back!

[Bert Solis]

Not to hijack the thread: I also have a question on spindle adapters. I have moved to a Delta lathe from a Shopsmith, problem is finding an adaptor that can be used with the Shopsmith chucks 5/8 plain on a delta that has 1"x 8tpi.
Is there such a thing. I have lots of faceplates and Glaser chucks with the 5/8 and can not use them
Your help is always appreciated

[Jake Helmboldt]

What do you guys use to get the adapter off? I have the PSI and a large box-end wrench to fit those flats is about twice as much as the adaptor itself.

[Scott Crumpton]

I use a very large Crescent wrench that I've had for years. If you buy a big enough one, you'll only suffer the pain once.

[Don Geiger]

I wouldn't encourage using aluminum adapters when you can get ones made of steel.

I have three adapters I bought from Best Wood Tools in Crossville, TN. I'm very happy with them. They are US made and the owners, Victor and Sharon, are really great.


Don Geiger

[Roger Chandler]

What do you guys use to get the adapter off? I have the PSI and a large box-end wrench to fit those flats is about twice as much as the adaptor itself.


Jake,

You are correct, Sir. I had the same problem, and had to go buy a large adjustable wrench........cost me $30 and it is just barely big enough! However, that spindle adapter is well made for sure!

[Fred Perreault]

I have several adapters, faceplates, coles jaws and other "spin-on" items for the spindle, and they are mostly different sizes. I often find scrap 1/8th" or 3/16th" or 1/4th" flat stock, and use a metal cutting blade in the sabre saw to cut spanners. I grind and file them to finish, and hit them with some spray gloss black. I have made many, including ones similar to the attached pics

[Art Kelly]

Steel and aluminum don't mix well, corrosion-wise. Ask any MC or boat mechanic.

OK if you always remove it right away, but (dumb looks are still free:o) I just got back from a six-week trip and discovered I had left a countersink in my drill press chuck. Steel-on-steel; no problem, right?

Wrong. I got it out, but I had to use the screwdriver-hammer chuck key method.

Of course, nobody else would leave something chucked for six weeks...would they?

I'd use steel if there was a choice. Even if corrosion wasn't a problem, the wrenching feature on an aluminum part will get rounded over pretty easy.

$0.02
Art

[Jake Helmboldt]

Steel and aluminum don't mix well, corrosion-wise. Ask any MC or boat mechanic.

OK if you always remove it right away, but (dumb looks are still free:o) I just got back from a six-week trip and discovered I had left a countersink in my drill press chuck. Steel-on-steel; no problem, right?

Wrong. I got it out, but I had to use the screwdriver-hammer chuck key method.

Of course, nobody else would leave something chucked for six weeks...would they?

I'd use steel if there was a choice. Even if corrosion wasn't a problem, the wrenching feature on an aluminum part will get rounded over pretty easy.

$0.02
Art

Good ol galvanic corrosion. Not sure about steel/steel, but should you (or anyone) have an alum/steel corrosion problem use ammonia to break the bond. It dissolves the alum oxide that forms that can't be touched by regular lubes/solvents.

[ray hampton]

Good ol galvanic corrosion. Not sure about steel/steel, but should you (or anyone) have an alum/steel corrosion problem use ammonia to break the bond. It dissolves the alum oxide that forms that can't be touched by regular lubes/solvents.



ammonia/ can you still buy ammonia in the grocery store

[Art Kelly]

ammonia/ can you still buy ammonia in the grocery store

Heck yeah. It's about $0.80 for a two-quart bottle. It may be cheaper than some bottled water.