Turning Reaction Wood

[Michael Mills]

The picture is a section of pecan tree limb about 9 X 11 oval. The pin shows the pith.
It seems that most people just discard reaction wood, however, that was for flatwork.
I could find no information on turning reaction wood. Has anyone had experience with it? If so, how would you cut it up?
My thought would be to cut through the pith giving one small and one large blank. Maybe on the large section even slicing a slab off. The cuts would be made across the narrow width of the log keeping the rings in balance.
Would it be best to turn to completion and allow it to warp as it will?
Thanks,
Mike

[Dale Miner]

That is the way I would cut it. Turn to finish is a matter of preference. I do all natural edge bowls once turned, some functional bowls that way.

[Reed Gray]

It took me a couple of looks before I figured out that the red thing was a push pin, or is it? 9 by 11 inches? Maybe a big push pin.

Reaction wood is wood that is under stress. Some times figured, some times not. I would cut it like you suggested, a smaller shallow bowl, and a larger deeper bowl. Do make sure to turn out any cracks. I would first trim off an inch or so off the end to see if the pith checks penetrate any deeper.

I prefer to turn green to final thickness, and let them warp. Warped just fits me better. Turn to about 1/4 inch thick, round over bowl rims, wrap the rim (a couple of times around and stretch it out) in plastic stretch film, with a little hanging over the rim, and most on the outside, start drying on the floor for a few days, then up onto a shelf. Dry in two weeks max.

You probably could twice turn it (turn thick, dry, return). Not much of an expert on this method.

robo hippy

[Bernie Weishapl]

I agree with what Reed said except I do twice turned bowls. I anchorseal the bowl after turning leaving the walls about 10% of the diameter, stack them on the floor to dry in a cooler, dry place with not much air movement. I keep a running stock so drying time doesn't bother me. I do round over the rims as Reed had warned me a long time ago if I didn't they would definitely crack and he was right.

[Michael Mills]

Reed said: "Maybe a big push pin." :) One inch diameter at the base...got tired of losing the little one when I dropped them.
So, I have not turned completely green, I do have 320g 3m strips (like dry wall sheets but made for the auto industry). I have always turned, dried, re-turned. What do you think of using a bee's wax mixture while sanding before turning the inside? The bark will not stay but it can be natural edge anyway. I use DNA so I would turn it down to 1/4 -3/8. I would also leave a deeper foot (ridge like a plate) and then sand back to make it level enough to sit without rocking.
Mike

[Dennis Ford]

You have the right idea about how to cut it. Reaction wood may warp more than normal wood but I have not noticed it being any more likely to crack as long as it is cut across the narrow part of the log. If cut across the wide part of the log, tension wood and compression wood end up together and it will crack for sure.

[Barry Elder]

Turn it thin and let it warp rather than driving yourself crazy.