Ruth Niles Bottle Stoppers

[Greg Just]

For those of you that use the Ruth Niles bottle stoppers, do you buy the threaded version or the non-threaded version? Seems the threaded one would be better when using epoxy.

[Paul Douglass]

I have only used the threaded ones. I have not tried the non-threaded so I don't know is the threaded is better or not. Some soft wood and other material won't hold threads well. In that case I would think epoxy would be better. I have been going to make one out of soapstone, whitch does not hold a threads well. It I do I will use threaded, because that is all I have, but I will epoxy it.

[Anthony Welch]

I've only used the threaded ones as well.

Anthony

[Jess Wetherhold]

Good question. I buy on average 150-200 a year and it would save me a little coin to go non-threaded. My reason for going threaded are four fold. I do many shows and have many stoppers that people mishandle and drop and,well, destroy. With the threaded (I don't glue them in) I can remount the wood, turn out the blemish and resell. I also do shows that are in direct sunlight and have had some woods crack (even kiln dried woods.) Another reason for me is that I may simply turn a design that is not sellable or desirable and I am able to repurpose that $5 stopper.
Also, customers break things at home... If you don't glue it then you can turn them a replacement. Her mandrel works very well and the end fit with the stopper is VERY tight. I need a wrench to break the fit.

IMHO It's worth the extra money to have options. Ruth is a great person to speak with and I'm sure she would answer any questions you have if you wish to speak with her.

[gary Zimmel]

I have bought quite a few of Ruth's bottle stoppers from her Canadian distributor. All I have ordered is the threaded ones and have been very happy with them. With the threaded ones I can use the self tapping mandrel. A little CA and none have come loose.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Greg - have only used the threaded stoppers and like the idea of being able to remove and replace the wood if need be.

[Jim Burr]

Always threaded...if needed, I'll stabilize the hole (threads) with CA, but I don't glue it in

[Greg Just]

thanks for the replies. I had not given much thought to using the threads to remove the stopper for the various reasons listed above.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Threaded and stablize soft wood with CA.

[Steven DeMars]

Threaded and stablize soft wood with CA.

Bernie, would you please explain the "stabilize" process, method, etc . . .

Maybe the steps you follow if you would . . .

I know that you have probably worked out a very smooth method for doing this.

Thanks,
Steve

[Jim McFarland]

I've made about 20 stoppers (wood, acrylic & polyresin) with Ruth's #301 SS threaded stopper and only 1 where I had to use epoxy. This one was my fault because I overtightened when treading on the stopper.

[Aaron Wingert]

I use her threaded stoppers but I always expoxy them in place. Relying on the wood to hold the threads after repeated tugging and pushing is a bet I'm not willing to take. A couple drops of epoxy is cheap insurance in addition to the threads, IMHO.

[Alan Zenreich]

Threaded and glued here too.

[David Walser]

Bernie, would you please explain the "stabilize" process, method, etc . . .

Maybe the steps you follow if you would . . .

I know that you have probably worked out a very smooth method for doing this.
...

Steve,

I'm not Bernie, and his method may be better than mine, but this is what I do: After drilling the hole in the blank, I put a few drops of thin CA into the hole and then swirl the CA glue around the sides by holding the blank almost horizontal and turning it slowly in my hand. I then set the blank down for the glue to cure. If I'm in a hurry, I'll spritz the blank with some accelerator. (I usually prep several blanks at a time. By the time I've gotten through with the last blank, the glue in the first one has cured and the accelerator isn't necessary.) The next step is to tap threads in the hole. I use Ruth's combo tap/mandrel for this. After threading the blank onto the mandrel, I back it off and, again, add a drop or two into the hole and, again, swirl the CA glue along the sides of the hole.

The hope is that the CA glue will soak into the wood and keep the wood from chipping out as the threads are being cut. The second application is just insurance.

I hope this helps.

[Steven DeMars]

Steve,

I'm not Bernie, and his method may be better than mine, but this is what I do: After drilling the hole in the blank, I put a few drops of thin CA into the hole and then swirl the CA glue around the sides by holding the blank almost horizontal and turning it slowly in my hand. I then set the blank down for the glue to cure. If I'm in a hurry, I'll spritz the blank with some accelerator. (I usually prep several blanks at a time. By the time I've gotten through with the last blank, the glue in the first one has cured and the accelerator isn't necessary.) The next step is to tap threads in the hole. I use Ruth's combo tap/mandrel for this. After threading the blank onto the mandrel, I back it off and, again, add a drop or two into the hole and, again, swirl the CA glue along the sides of the hole.

The hope is that the CA glue will soak into the wood and keep the wood from chipping out as the threads are being cut. The second application is just insurance.

I hope this helps.

That's what I was looking for . . . thank you . . .:D

Steve