Table Saw top needs help.....

[David McCracken]

I did a search for how to clean rust from the cast iron top of my Craftsman 10" Contractor table saw and came across this thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=76282 (http://http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=76282)

In it, there is a description of a sanding process to clean up the cast iron using progressively finer paper and a random orbital sander. In this thread, the point is made that one should use the slowest setting on their variable speed ROS. As I do not have a variable speed ROS, but only a constant speed one (a craftsman 2 amp that has a speed of 11,000 rpm) I am wondering if it is safe to use the one I have.

Is the speed due only to control, or does it have to do with the amount of material taken off and the propensity to create valleys? If this is too fast, and I need to get a variable speed ROS in order to restore my saw top safely, what is a safe speed to use? Should I "wet sand" using mineral spirits or something similar, or is dry sanding okay?

I am starting this thread as I didn't think commenting on a thread that has been dormant for 2 years was appropriate. If this is an incorrect assumption, I apologize.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Dave

[Rick Mathison]

David, don't worry about your sander not being variable speed. You will want to use sanding disks without dust holes though. The main reason for using a v/s sander at its slowest rate is to not throw the lubricant around the room. As far as lubricant goes I use WD40. It's not very expensive (you won't use that much anyway) and almost everyone already has it in the garage. I would suggest that you first apply some lubricant, let it sit, then scrape it of with a sharp razor blade to get the bulk of the rust. Then proceed to use your sander.

Rick

[Stephen Cherry]

I would suggest that you first apply some lubricant, let it sit, then scrape it of with a sharp razor blade to get the bulk of the rust. Then proceed to use your sander.

Rick

I agree fully with the scraping part. You can also use a plane blade if you can make it very sharp (sharp enough to shave the hair off of your arm, otherwise, get a box of razor blades)

Soak, let it sit a good long time, and scrape the rust off. Then follow up with a scotchbrite pad and call it a day. This will get the top into good usable condition, without taking the chance of turning it into a potato chip. You really are concerned only with the peaks of the table surface, the crevices don't hurt anything but your pride. Let the rust pits go because going to town with a sander could cause more harm than good.

[Donny Lawson]

I used stuff from Lowes called PB Blaster. My tools were very rusty from water and this stuff worked great. I did use 600 grit sandpaper and scrub the surface thoughly then wiped the rust away while the PB Blaster is applied.
Donny

[Lee Schierer]

Place a red scotchbrite pad under your sander and scrub the table top with the scotch brite pad. You can use mineral spirits or WD-40 as a lubricant. Using sand paper can remove too much material from the surface and result in an uneven surface.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

My $0.02 would be to NOT use any form of sandpaper on your table top. CI is fairly soft, and you could remove enough to make your top not flat anymore. I don't know the specifics of your TS, but most go through a lot to make the top flat. If the top is very rusted, you may want to have it flattened by a professional shop.

[Neal Clayton]

brass wire brushes in a drill work pretty well.

[glenn bradley]

I'm with Kyle, a ROS is asking for a top that will never be flat again using sandpaper IMHO. Evap-o-rust, an Orbital sander with syntho steel wool or Boeshield Rust Free would all be things I would try first.

[Marty Paulus]

While I don't let my stuff get real bad, I use Barkeepers Friend with (GASP!) water. Some on here use WD-40 with it but I feel the oxalic acid needs the water to really do its job and disolve the rust. Let is sit for a few minutes to start working and you should be good to go. Use a scotch brite pad to work it in, a good wipe down aftewards to get the grit and water off and then coat with paste wax. Between the acid and the abrasive it should not take long unless the table is beyond help.

[Myk Rian]

While I don't let my stuff get real bad, I use Barkeepers Friend with (GASP!) water. Some on here use WD-40 with it but I feel the oxalic acid needs the water to really do its job and disolve the rust. Let is sit for a few minutes to start working and you should be good to go. Use a scotch brite pad to work it in, a good wipe down aftewards to get the grit and water off and then coat with paste wax. Between the acid and the abrasive it should not take long unless the table is beyond help.
I also use BKF. Great stuff. Use it in a ventilated area.

[Tom Rick]

Skip the sanders- use a razor to scrape off the rust then buff out with a Scotch Brite pad.

I use blades of the type used in utility knives and wet out with WD40 while scraping.