Tapered legs - duh

[Dan Karachio]

I realize some of you are old pros here, but us newbies keep having to learn everything you know. I built a nice tapering jig for my table saw using t slots and the whole shebang to line up then hold the legs in place. Well, on the old table saw, my 1.75 hp saw had a rough time with the maple test piece (2" thick) and I got burns, it seemed a little dicey in the safety department (even though all was clamped down) and it just didn't work out so well. The duh comes here. My bandsaw. Why the heck didn't I think of the bandsaw first? While the TS struggles with a thick piece like this, the bandsaw goes through it like butter. Lucky for me, the jig can also be used on the bandsaw (but it need not have been so elaborate). I'll clean it all up with my hand planes or maybe even the jointer then the hand planes. I'm still sorting this out. Thank the lord for scrap wood to test with.

So, how many people cut tapers on the bandsaw, even if they have a cabinet saw?

[Peter Quinn]

So, how many people cut tapers on the bandsaw, even if they have a cabinet saw?


I've used the BS, the TS, but mostly I use the jointer if its just one set of legs. A few passes, a few layout marks, done. Very quick set up, even I can do it, no jigs to make, just a piece of scrap for a starting point clamped to the fence.

That said I just got a new BS this summer and may make a tapering sled for it next time I need tapered legs. It has a bigger table than the old one at a lower height, so that might suit me better. It sure would handle the thick stuff a lot better. For reference I have a 5HP cabinet saw in my home shop but have never made a tapering sled for it. Just not my favorite method.

[Stephen Cherry]

jointer also. Just draw the lines on the side of the wood that you can see while jointing. Drop the leg onto the outfeed table about one third from the top, then start jointing. As the angle of the cut matches the angle of the line, you can use the cut surface flat on the infeed table to guide the cut.

Sounds complex, but it is easy.

Just one rule- don't pass your hand over the cutterhead. As you switch from infeed to outfeed table, lift your hand way up, then down onto the wood well past the cutterhead.

Maybe bandsaw, then jointer would be ideal though.

[Rick Mathison]

Run them through the bandsaw to take off the most mass, then through the table saw to clean up the cuts and then through the jointer to finish up the whole process.

Rick

[Van Huskey]

I built a jig once upon a time that I used to cut all four legs at once on the BS. I used it a few times then took it apart. It worked fine but for me the process seemed backwards and thus awkward since the jig was on the right side of the blade and I am so used to cutting jigs being on the left side of the blade on a TS. Having used the BS, TS and the jointer for this purpose I have settled on the TS, but the BS is certainly a fine way to do it and avoids burning in burn sensitive species as you found.

[Dan Karachio]

Thanks! You guys have me all interested in the jointer for this, but (and this may be foolish), I really like using the bandsaw. It's a fun tool (plus I need to justify it's cost - I got my jointer cheap).

[Jay Allen]

I do mine on the table saw, with a light pass over the jointer. The old PM66 and a ripping blade make quick work of it.

[Van Huskey]

Thanks! You guys have me all interested in the jointer for this, but (and this may be foolish), I really like using the bandsaw. It's a fun tool (plus I need to justify it's cost - I got my jointer cheap).

Always go with what YOU get the best results and most enjoyment from unless you do it for a living then focus on best results and shortest time.

[Bill Huber]

I use the table saw and have no problem. I have a Jet contractor saw with a 1.5 hp motor and I have done tapers on 5/4 oak with no problems.

Maybe you should look at the blade you are using, I used a good rip blade, a Freud LM72.

Not saying you should use the table saw but I still think you have a problem with the blade.

[keith micinski]

The jointer method seems time consuming. There isn't anything unsafe about using a tapering jig and the tablesaw. Plus once you make the jig you have it for the rest of your life and know exactly what you are going to end up with every single time as opposed to drawing lines and trying to eyeball things. You are almost always going to get some burn marks because of the nature of the cut. Then you clean them up with one light pass over the jointer. A 1 1/2 horse contractors saw will cut 2 inch thick material all day long tuned up properly. The Bandsaw isn't a bad option either.

[Stephen Cherry]

The jointer method seems time consuming.

After you have figured out your method, it's quick.

[Dan Karachio]

I ended up with the bandsaw and the old #4. It worked pretty well and I like using the plane too. I tried the jointer on some scrap and I do not have the right technique for this, but I'll try it again some day.

I think I saw table saw taper jigs on two TV shows at least, so I thought I would do this, but for me and my saw, it really didn't feel too stable. Bandsaw left me feeling much more in control.

Any way, thanks for all the advice!

[Tom Esh]

... There isn't anything unsafe about using a tapering jig and the tablesaw...

Beg to differ. Some of these tapering jigs are little more than a couple pieces of aluminum channel and a hinge. With one of those, you'd better break out the double-stick tape 'cause you sure don't want to be using your hand to keep things against the fence when it's that close to the blade. A sled type with hold-downs is of course much better. It's also a classic example of how a safety device can become a safety liability, namely those anti-kickback prawls. The offcut can/will eventually wedge itself between the prawl and the rear of the blade and come flying at the operator. I cut tapers on the TS regularly, but even with a good jig and no prawls it has a pretty high "pucker factor".:D

[Prashun Patel]

I prefer bandsaw and jointer.

I draw my layout lines and just freehand the cut as close as possible, leaving the line visible. Then I joint the piece until the line disappears. It's amazing how accurate this gets it; I guess the little variances on the freehand cut average out so when you joint, you'll be right on the line.

[steven c newman]

The last two sets of tapered legs I've done, were with a handplane. Just a layout line, start at the bottom and work my way back up the leg. with the final pass, leg is done ( on that face) without any further smoothing out, or sanding. Plus, it's safer than doing it with either a jointer, or a tablesaw. :eek:

[Maik Tobin]

I make a lot of tapered legs on my table saw. Last year I bought the Dubby taper sled on sale and love it. I typically taper 3 or four leg sets at a time, and get them all done in less than 15 minutes.

[Frank Drew]

Some of these tapering jigs are little more than a couple pieces of aluminum channel and a hinge. With one of those, you'd better break out the double-stick tape 'cause you sure don't want to be using your hand to keep things against the fence when it's that close to the blade.

I beg to differ :D. I used one of those exclusively to taper legs and it worked fine and I never felt it was any riskier than many other common, and safe, table saw procedures; the hinged pieces of channel do lock in place, and there's a stop for your wood. With a good blade and a decently powered saw this is a quick method and there's very little cleanup required, if time is any consideration.

[Chris Padilla]

I just sand mine because I like to make a lot of sawdust. ;)

[Josiah Bartlett]

Run them through the bandsaw to take off the most mass, then through the table saw to clean up the cuts and then through the jointer to finish up the whole process.

Rick

Same here, except I skip the tablesaw step since my bandsaw cuts so nicely (16" Walker Turner with 3 HP motor and 1/2" woodslicer blade)