Finishing mahagony

[Jim Young]

I am looking for a surface that is very smooth. I have seen fillers for some woods but don't know what to use for mahagony. Just planing and sanding are not going to be smooth enough. Any ideas or experiences?

[Mark Singer]

Mahogony is a great wood easy to work with. It planes beautiful and will sand very smooth at 220 grit or higher...to high and you burnish the surface , which does not allow good penetration. Oil is a great finish on mahog.

[Steve Wargo]

you almost always need to use a pore filler. I like the Behlens and it works easily. The problem with mahogany is it has larger pores that need to be filled to get the mirror finish. If you oil it or shelac it you can make it shine, but it has a different appearance than when it's filled. However, if you plane the surface by hand you'll have a better apearance than if you sand it.

[Steve Cox]

Being trained as a boatbuilder I can say that 9 coats of spar varnish will give you a glassy smooth and beautiful finish.

[Carl Eyman]

Go to www.eyman.org/table. This I made in 2002. If it looks like what you want, I'll tell you how Jeff Jewitt lead me through this process. Then look at www.eyman.org/chairs. Similiar process, but a satin finish due to the amount of carved surface. If either or both appeal to you I'll be glad to guide you through the steps that were shown to me.

[Gary Whitt]

This is from another site:

TO get the nice rich mahogany color, mix a blend of Watco Fruitwood with a few drops of Watco.
Rub this mix in ( do not brush on and wipe off -- it will soak in too much). Then 2 coats of Waterlox Original (semi gloss)... sand w/400 grit, then final coat of Waterlox Orig. Gives a nice soft lustre with a rich color.


For a nice contrast of the pores (if you're wanting to fill them), use a dark walnut filler.
I have a mahogany mandolin and banjo. The pores were filled with walnut filler.
The end result was the nice color of mahogany (light to med. brown) with the dark brown pores.

[Jack Hogoboom]

Wow, Carl!! that is one beautiful table you made. I can't even imagine being able to execute a project like that.

Thanks for sharing.

Jack

[Joel Selman]

http://www.eitzfurniture.com/images/00coffeeT2.jpg
I am an Analine Dye, Shellac, tung oil finish kind of guy, but this table had some issues. I sanded it to 320 but the spaulted maple kept soaking up the oil finish so I went hi tech on it. Sanding sealer with wet sanding sealed it tight, and a wipe on poly made it as smooth and high gloss as you can ask for. The tiger maple sides have the most amazing natural holographic effects.
I know the purists will shake their heads, and I would normally be among them, but sometimes you do what you must.
Of all the pieces I have in my home, this is the one guests are always trying to buy!

[John Hemenway]

Norm did a mahagony dining table this season (program 1611). He used some 'filler'. I don't see a reference to it on the NYW website. Perhaps you can ask your question there?

[nic obie]

If you can spray Lacquer you don't really need to fill the pores.

Here is how I finish Mahogany:

~ sand to 220
~ apply a 'spit coat' (one lb.) coat of orange shellac with a brush or a rag, lightly sand.
~ wipe on a red mahogany oil based pigmented stain. Minwax is OK. Wipe off excess stain right away.
~ spray on as many coats of lacquer sanding sealer as it takes to get it as smooth as you want. remember to block sand between each coat.
~ spray on at least 2 coats of regular lacquer. You can pick what ever sheen that you prefer.
~ If you end up with dust bunnies or minor orange peel, rub them out with 0000 steel wool. If you have to, use 600 or even 400 grit paper to get rid of the orange peel.
~ If you prefer a high gloss finish, continue rubbing out with automotive rubbing compound followed by auto polishing compound.

[Alan Turner]

Jim
You are asking aobut a grain filler, I think. One way to do it is to use BLO, and as it is on and wet, sprinkle on some pumice or rottenstone (diff. colors, same effect) and rub it into the grian, and then rub it off cross grain with a coarse rag. Burlap is great. Let it dry, at least overnight. This will fill the pores. Re-level the surface, and finish as usual. Dewaxed shellac over the top is fine, and then whatever you want. French polish to oil/varnish, etc.
Alan