Impact Driver woes

[Mac Cambra]

Guys,

Based on everything I read I really should love this thing, but every time I use it in anything other that pine I seems to twist the heads off of screws and break the tips of the phillips bits. So that said love isn't the word I would use.

I am not using soft brass screws or anything like that, typically it is deck screws, which I would think are robust. I am also drilling pilot holes, particularly when the wood is really hard.

I bought some bit specifically for impact drivers but I want to know how to avoid twisting the heads off of the screws?

What am I doing wrong?

[Roger Jensen]

Make sure you're using high quality screws. If the came from a big box store they probably aren't very good.

There was a comparison of screws a few months ago in one of the WW magazines, perhaps someone will identify it for you (or search this site). There were a couple of mail-order places with decent screws.

Roger

[Mike Heidrick]

You going to fast with it by chance?

[jack howery]

i bought this impact driver for a 16 x 20 deck i was building.not 1 broken screw broke about 10 bits.i love this tool no sore wrist after a day of using it. just my .02 worth

[Mac Cambra]

Going too fast, maybe. I guess maybe a little feathering of the trigger is in order. But it seems where this could get away from you pretty easily.

[Jeff Mackay]

Have you tried lubricating the screws and using "impact ready" bits?

[Van Huskey]

My initial guess is the quality of screws and bits. It is actually work to find quality bits and screws these days.

[Josiah Bartlett]

One you cam out a few screw heads, the bit is typically ruined.

If you are actually snapping the shanks of deck screws, you either have bum screws or are waaaaaay overtorquing them.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Two words....

square drive.

Three words if you throw in McFeely's.

[Rick Davidson]

I have the Makita 18v I just framed 2 small bedrooms using 3" square drive screws not one broken screw or bit. I think you are over torquing or got crappy screws.

[Richard McComas]

That's why I love my Panasonic 12 volt impact driver. It has 3 speeds a digital clutch and more. I have had it for over 3 years and if I need another one I'll buy again.

http://www.internationaltool.com/9-6V-12V-Impact-Drivers-and-Wrenches/Panasonic-EY7202GQKW.aspx?utm_source=froct10&utm_medium=pdc&utm_campaign=crdlstool

[Will Overton]

Guys,

I really should love this thing ...

Specifically what 'thing' are you talking about?

[Dave Gaul]

Are you drilling your pilot holes large enough? Even with McFeely's square drive screws, I've broken head off in Red Oak.. drilled my pilot hole a size bigger, and no problem!!

Pilot holes need to be a little bigger for hardwoods... McFeely's catalog even has a chart for pilot hole sizes for hardwood vs. softwood for each screw size...

[Callan Campbell]

It shouldn't matter, as lots of posters have stated that they don't run into the same problem you're experiencing. But, just so we know, what tool are you using that's giving you grief, and from whom did the screws come from. Lastly, make sure the screws are at least #8 or maybe even #10 screws. Many "outdoor" or interior screws are only a #6 or #7, with their thinner shanks, which would giving you the snapped heads pretty easily.
I don't run into your issue unless I've drilled too small of a pilot hole in tougher material. I use stainless steel for the most part on exterior projects, and coated ones for inside work[I hate rust:p] But, they're almost always from McFeelys like others have said.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Have you tried lubricating the screws.......

Bingo. I have a tin container with a plumber's wax ring smashed into it. Stick the screw in there, and pull them out as needed. Every screw, every time, when going into pilot holes in hardwood.

[Mac Cambra]

I have two impact drivers, both 18V Li ion, one is a Milwaukee and the other is a Makita (black and white version). The Makita seems a little less aggressive than the Milwaukee. I am using the grey coated deck screws from Home Depot, typically 2" length.

I don't seem to be having issues with stripping out the screw heads just breaking them off at the shank which sets up a separate issue in that it is nearly impossible to extract them without damaging the wood. Typically I end up leaving them in.

The latest incident was in a piece of purple heart I was using for a cross cut sled fence. It was basically a scrap piece of wood, albeit a very nice scrap that will suit the purpose very well. I have learned don't like working with purple heart because of the splinters and because it is prone to tear-out so I thought what the hell let's just use it there and I'll be done with it. The broken screw in this case didn't cause me any real problems but if there is an issue with my technique I would like to solve it before something bad happens where it really matters.

I did purchase some impact specific bits made by Milwaukee, the jury is still out on them.

If screws are the issue, I will try some from McFeely's.

I guess the last question is one of technique?

Thanks

[Marty Paulus]

Impact ready bits are important. I was going through bits at the rate of one every 1/2 dozen screws until I switched. My stripping of the heads went to almost never as well.

[Will Overton]

The drivers you are using should not create a problem. At this point I would guess you are not predrilling proper sized holes for the wood/screw combination. Check out this free chart from Wood Magazine.

http://images.meredith.com/wood/images/pdf/screwchart.pdf

[Callan Campbell]

I have two impact drivers, both 18V Li ion, one is a Milwaukee and the other is a Makita (black and white version). The Makita seems a little less aggressive than the Milwaukee. I am using the grey coated deck screws from Home Depot, typically 2" length.

I don't seem to be having issues with stripping out the screw heads just breaking them off at the shank which sets up a separate issue in that it is nearly impossible to extract them without damaging the wood. Typically I end up leaving them in.

The latest incident was in a piece of purple heart I was using for a cross cut sled fence. It was basically a scrap piece of wood, albeit a very nice scrap that will suit the purpose very well. I have learned don't like working with purple heart because of the splinters and because it is prone to tear-out so I thought what the hell let's just use it there and I'll be done with it. The broken screw in this case didn't cause me any real problems but if there is an issue with my technique I would like to solve it before something bad happens where it really matters.

I did purchase some impact specific bits made by Milwaukee, the jury is still out on them.

If screws are the issue, I will try some from McFeely's.

I guess the last question is one of technique?

Thanks
Would need to know the size of the screws, like 7, 8 or 10's[or, just the SKU off the box so I can figure that out myself:p].
Next, what size pilot hole did you drill into the purple heart? Still seems like either the pilot holes aren't large enough for the hardwood/screw diameter you're using, or the screws aren't tough enough for impact drive usage.

[Greg Portland]

Purpleheart is a tough wood (like hickory, red oak, etc.).

1) What style, size & brand of screws are you using? (#8 sqaure drives, self-augering, etc.)? The only decent screws that I've found for purchase in a hardware store have been deck screws (which are huge & epoxy coated & not ideal for in-shop use). Kreg is the only local brand of decent screw that I've found... I typically order from McFeeleys when they are having a sale. You should be able to take a #8 self-augering sqaure drive screw and drive it directly into oak or purpleheart without the screw snapping.
2) Are you pre-drilling? Are you using the right sized bit & drilling deep enough? If you are not using self-augering bits then you MUST pre-drill.
3) Are your screws lubricated? Pre-lubed screws have worked well for me (no need for additional wax or soap).