Pocket holes

[Richard McComas]

Tell me what you know about attaching face frames with pocket holes. I done plenty of pocket holes for making the face frames but never to attach them to the cabinet box. Specifically I need know is how do you keep the frame from moving when you drive the screws.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

Richard...This is not the answer you are looking for but,...Mark Sommerfeld's website has some DVD's that covers that and more. They dont cost much and are worth the money. Better than all the DVD's I have bought off Amazon. At least they have been made in the last 5 years.

[Peter Quinn]

Clamps. I put the FF on the box dry, with the back on an assembly bench, stand offs under the box to let you get the clamps on. I use k-body clamps because I have them, but others would work. I run the screws in dry and pull them if I"m gluing the ff to the box. Often I pre finish the ff and use prefinished ply, and I connect them with just screws.

You can also use the kreg right angle clamp to keep things in place. It has a protrusion on one side that goes into a pocket hole and a clamp pad on the other. These work ok, it helps to have several to hold a large ff, I prefer regular clamps.

[Steve Griffin]

If your face frame is held with your left hand tight to the box, the most it will move is 1/64 or so. Just anticipate this and you can flush up a frame to the sides of a box just fine. No need to clamp.

Also, there is is little play in FF screws. If your FF is a fuzz off, back the screw out and move the frame where you want it and retighten.

It's not hard at all with a little practice to get great results.

-Steve

[Phil Thien]

(1) Glue. (2) Clamps. (3) Screw it off. (4) Remove clamps, move to next cabinet.

Sometimes I'll biscuit the bottom of the face frame to the floor of the cabinet to make sure this is easy to keep aligned while I'm clamping. 2-3 biscuits keep this lined up nicely.

[Darl Bundren]

You can use clamps like Peter suggests; Kreg also sells a vise grips clamp deal that has a post that fits into a pocket hole and the paddle fits on the face frame. It works well and might be a little easier than using regular clamps from the back of the cabinet box. I think I got mine for a little over $20.

http://www.toolman.co.uk/acatalog/t_rightangle.jpg

[Chip Lindley]

Not the answer you are looking for either, Richard. I find PH screws unsightly on the interior of cabinets. Moreso, on the outside walls, unless those will be hidden. Besides, it is a time-consuming thing to hold everything together to drive PH screws.

Quick and dirty (and plenty strong) is glue only and a pin nailer. Many attest to the strength of yellow wood glue to attach FFs to cabinet boxes. The sheer area bonded makes for an amazingly stout assembly--especially with all solid wood. Once the pins are holding the FF on, any small gaps can be pulled together with clamps.

As overkill, with carcasses of MDF or PB, I have used splines made of 1/8" hardboard, in long slots cut with router and piloted slotting bit. (much faster than locating biscuits) The slots are stopped before reaching each corner where metal fasteners might be. A pin nailer comes in handy here to pull the corners tight. If the setup is correct, splines allow FFs to be attached fast and accurately.

[Bruce Wrenn]

At each PH location, I drill two holes. Use one for the right angle clamp, and screw in the other. If frame should shift, I then reverse the order of clamp and screw. I use the outside of the cabinet for PH's, as I put an end panel on my cabinets.

[Mike Heidrick]

Clamps as well