Another resaw question.

[Kent E. Matthew]

I have access to an old 14" band saw at work. I bought a Bosch 4 tpi blade at Lowes (10 bucks). I have a pile of oak chunks (3 x 5 x 42 inch) I have collected from a trucking company for years. Advice consumed on this board clearly favors resawing on a band saw as the safest way to process. I have processed some of this using my table saw. My first attempt wasn't perfect but usable. My second attempt the blade popped off. So, I tightened the blade down to the point where I could not tighten it any further. Things got much worse. Within an inch I was drifting off the mark in a radius that was just unrecoverable. Any tips would be helpful. Thanks.

[Van Huskey]

You didn't mention the width of the blade.

The first thing I would say is get yourself a good resaw blade. I would suggest a 1/2" Kerfmaster from Spectrum supply, there is also the Woodslicer from Highland and Bladerunner from Iturra. They have thin backing material which allows a 14" cast saw to tension them properly and are very sharp, be aware they dull quicker than carbon blades but they get the best resaw out of a 14" cast saw.

[Lee Schierer]

Are you sure that your bandsaw at work is a wood saw. Metal cutting bandsaws will not do a good job on cutting wood. The blade speed is too slow on a metal cutting saw and the wheels are not crowned and don't have rubber tires which would remove the set from your teeth on one side. This would make the blade cut crooked in the first inch or so.

Next check the guide blocks and alignment of the saw as you have to have a well tuned saw to get good resaw results no matter which blade you put on it.

[Kent E. Matthew]

Lee thank you that is exactly what the situation is. The blade I bought is 1/2 width and clearly a cheapy. I took a metal blade off it to put the one I bought on. No it does not have rubber tires on the wheels. I watched a youtube video where this guy cuts a veneer of mahogany. He mentioned get a low tension blade so I was wondering if I tightened the blade to much. I guess I need to add one more item to the craigslist list.

Would this one do.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c56/Goose5/throw%20away/bandsaw.jpg

How about this one?
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c56/Goose5/throw%20away/Jetsaw1.jpg

[Myk Rian]

The last thing you want to do is tension the blade as much as you can.
You're lucky it didn't break. Do a search for "flutter method" for tensioning tips.

[del schisler]

I have access to an old 14" band saw at work. I bought a Bosch 4 tpi blade at Lowes (10 bucks). I have a pile of oak chunks (3 x 5 x 42 inch) I have collected from a trucking company for years. Advice consumed on this board clearly favors resawing on a band saw as the safest way to process. I have processed some of this using my table saw. My first attempt wasn't perfect but usable. My second attempt the blade popped off. So, I tightened the blade down to the point where I could not tighten it any further. Things got much worse. Within an inch I was drifting off the mark in a radius that was just unrecoverable. Any tips would be helpful. Thanks.

I resaw all the time all kind's of wood. A 3tpi and 1/2" is for resawing. I get mine from here http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx . Their are other's but i have used this one sence it first come out. Has worked for me. Now another thing you should do is adjust your fence for blade drift. If you doin't do this the blade will drift away from your fence. Sound's like that is what happen. What width was your blade? Get this blade and adjust for blade drift and it will resaw fine. If you don't know how to adjust for blade drift . Post another and ask how to adjust for drift if you don't know how.

[Howard Acheson]

You should be using a re-saw blade. For a 14" machine that would be a 2-3 skip tooth 1/2" blade.

What were these "chunks"? Are you sure they do not contain any metal or stone?

Finally, if you are not familier with setting up, aligning and using a band saw, I recommend you to to Amazon and purchase Lonnie Bird's Band Saw Book or the latest book by Mark Duginske. Either of these will give you the info needed to get you going. Band saws take some knowledge to work correctly. Resawing is on aspect that takes some learning.

[Kent E. Matthew]

To answer a few questions. The blade was 1/2 inch. The material is red oak. I have to be careful some of it contains nails. I have a metal detector. And, I was not using a fence. I scribed a pencil line and tried to follow that. Anyone try the Timberwolf blade at Woodcraft?

[Myk Rian]

I have a few TW blades. Have had good luck with them. Another good one I've used is a Supercut blade. HF had a sale on them a while back for under $5. Just as good as a TW.

[Kent E. Matthew]

Wow. I can see why I had trouble. After viewing the Woodwhisperer youtube video on band saw setup. I just tossed the blade on and started cutting. I still have not come across an explanation of the flutter method yet. Lots of talk about it but no actual description. Any preferences on the saws I presented in a previous post?

[Neil Brooks]

I still have not come across an explanation of the flutter method yet. Lots of talk about it but no actual description.

Here it be:

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six_rules.asp

[Van Huskey]

Any preferences on the saws I presented in a previous post?

Which model number is the PM?

[Kent E. Matthew]

He is also selling a PM model 66. We all know what that is, but he didn't list the model number of the band saw.

[Kent E. Matthew]

Well, after a great deal of reading on the subject I was certain I could get better results today. My work saw is a wood saw. It is set at the second highest speed. I used the techniques employed in the Woodwhisperer youtube video including tensioning. No go. I ended up breaking the blade at the much lower tension. This does not inspire confidence.

[Van Huskey]

He is also selling a PM model 66. We all know what that is, but he didn't list the model number of the band saw.

IF it is an American made PM it is one of the best 14" bandsaws ever made, if it is the import version they made later it is one of the worst, it deflects like a wet noodle.

[Van Huskey]

Well, after a great deal of reading on the subject I was certain I could get better results today. My work saw is a wood saw. It is set at the second highest speed. I used the techniques employed in the Woodwhisperer youtube video including tensioning. No go. I ended up breaking the blade at the much lower tension. This does not inspire confidence.


DON'T GIVE UP. First get you a better blade, check that the weld is straight before mounting it and round the back of the blade with a stone once mounted. Although, a lot of people swear by it I do NOT subscribe to the flutter method, I use the scale on the saw first and back it up with a finger deflection "test", the latter should deflect about 1/4" with moderate pressure BUT that is a feel thing like checking a belt on a car. Use the scale if it has one.

For some general bandsaw blade info check my recent post: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=149862

[Kent E. Matthew]

Thanks Van. I can't imagine people who use a fence. To stay on the line I would adjust left. Then right. Back and forth. I began to have better results when I slowed the feed rate to a crawl. Then pop. The blade did break on the weld. Honestly if I have to slow down that much I might as well process this stuff on my table saw. If I take a 1/2 cut each pass I'll make through faster.

[Van Huskey]

Thanks Van. I can't imagine people who use a fence. To stay on the line I would adjust left. Then right. Back and forth. I began to have better results when I slowed the feed rate to a crawl. Then pop. The blade did break on the weld. Honestly if I have to slow down that much I might as well process this stuff on my table saw. If I take a 1/2 cut each pass I'll make through faster.

Start with a better blade next, a Lenox Flexback carbon blade 1/2" 3TPI shouldn't be more than a couple of bucks more than the blade you got. This isn't the greatest blade BUT I assume you don't want to spend much on a blade for a saw you don't own and may not fit a future saw you may buy. Go through the setup steps again and I think you will have better luck, plus put that saw on it's fastest speed for wood.

Talking about fences and resaw and a well tuned bandsaw in general, you may want to watch this video. The saw in it is a couple of "weight classes" up from the one you are using but it shows you how effortless bandsaws can be when properly setup. Be aware it is a "commercial" and it could have you lusting for one of their saws but in general terms any solid bandsaw can perform this way when properly tuned at least within its capabilities.


http://www.minimax-usa.com/index.php?option=com_seyret&Itemid=&task=videodirectlink&id=7

[Neil Brooks]

Talking about fences and resaw and a well tuned bandsaw in general, you may want to watch this video. The saw in it is a couple of "weight classes" up from the one you are using but it shows you how effortless bandsaws can be when properly setup. Be aware it is a "commercial" and it could have you lusting for one of their saws but in general terms any solid bandsaw can perform this way when properly tuned at least within its capabilities.


http://www.minimax-usa.com/index.php?option=com_seyret&Itemid=&task=videodirectlink&id=7

Why do I get the distinct feeling that it could cost me about two grand to watch that video ? ;)

Kent: I have but a lowly 14" Grizzly G0555X with a few different TimberWolf blades.

This evening, I was faced with having to take about 1/16" thickness off of eight wedges that I'd cut, for some false tenons.

I debated double stick taping them to a carrier board, and running them through the planer, using the belt sander, the ROS, or even the OSS.

Then, I thought "Why not," and sliced the last 16th off, using the 1/4" blade on my BS.

I ... literally ... can cut near paper thin veneers on this thing. Dialing it in for straight re-saw was a no-brainer, and I've gone through some mighty hard woods, in fair widths. You learn, very quickly, to finesse your feed rates, as needed.

I'm only echoing Van's (very informative and informed) position, here: that -- once you get a good blade, and the saw properly tuned up -- it's virtually amazing their capacities.

My BS IS the only real reason I took a true 'cabinet saw' OFF my short list, and stick, happily, with my Bosch 4100. The band saw just keeps on filling the bill, and amazing me with every use.

Enjoy :)

[Van Huskey]

Why do I get the distinct feeling that it could cost me about two grand to watch that video ? ;)

:)

It is funny how expensive the REAL cost of the internet is! The visual appeal of the Laguna videos are just as good but Sam is more polished in his presentation than Torbin is so I suggested some Minimax "porn" instead. I would recommend a Laguna, Minimax or Agazzani to anyone that wants to spend the money BUT I want to be clear that with proper blade selection and tuning (which you also have to have with the Italian saws) you can get 90+% of the results with saws that cost 25% of what the Italians costs, but much like sports cars that last 10% can be an aweful lot of fun. :D

[Kirk Amidon]

I recently purchased a delta 14" band saw, and bought probably the same 1/2" blade you did also from Lowes. My first attempts at resawing had the same results you have had - other than the blade breaking. I found an article originally published in FWW

Found it: http://www.ccwwa.org/NEWSITE/plans/BandsawTuneup1.pdf

I followed the directions in the article and now have successfully resawn red oak up to 5" thick. Slowly, but surely it goes through the wood, and straight.

Good Luck!!!

[Chris Padilla]

...that last 10% can be an awful lot of fun. :D

Oh yeah! :D

[Kent E. Matthew]

I would not mind buying a more expensive blade if I could be closer to success. This problem is holding up a double dresser project. I took another look under the hood of this saw and discovered the saw has four speeds. One being the lowest speed. I thought is was on 3. Upon closer inspection it is on speed 2. So I have two higher speeds on this saw. Also the blade I had before I described as a 1/2 inch blade. It was only 3/8. And, I noticed when the saw is running the top wheel has about an 1/8 inch wobble.

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> I ... literally ... can cut near paper thin veneers on this thing. Dialing it in for straight re-saw was a no-brainer, and I've gone through some mighty hard woods, in fair widths. You learn, very quickly, to finesse your feed rates, as needed.

Right on. My 15 year old 14" Jet band saw gave up the ghost 3-4 years ago. I replaced it with the Grizzly G0555X. I do little wide resawing so I stayed with the 6" capacity. I have a hardened tooth 1/2" resaw blade and can cut paper thin veneers when I need to.

Just like table saws, the quality of the cut is determined by the quality of the blade and the skill of the operator, not the quality of the saw. Here's something I used to hang up in the shop I used to teach woodworking:

"The less sophisticated the woodworker is, the more sophisticated the tools he thinks he has to have." Marc Adams, Marc Adams School of Woodworking