Question about some confusing directions.

[Gabe Caraway]

I'm building a workbench this weekend from a design I found at AW.com (http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/projects/archive/2009/03/04/tom-s-torsion-box-workbench.aspx).

It says to build a fence for the circ. saw. Here's what it says:


Build a temporary cutting guide to fit your circular saw (Photo 1). It’s easy to make by nailing together two overlapping 1x6s cut just over 6 ft. long (you’ll use these boards later as parts of the bench). The edge of the bottom board shows you exactly where the saw will cut, so you don’t have to do any complicated measuring. The top board guides the saw. Nail some extra pieces of 1x6 under the overhang of the top board for balance.

http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/ee360/TheHawkmoonDiaries/w_1.jpg

My question concerns the red. What is the complicated measuring if I want to just freehand these cuts with my circ. saw?

[Glenn Vaughn]

My question concerns the red. What is the complicated measuring if I want to just freehand these cuts with my circ. saw?

It is difficult to freehand cut and get perfectly straight lines. The complex measuring refers to the calculations of where a straight edge is placed for the saw to ride against. You have to allow for the distance from the edge of the blade to the straight edge when placing it for the cut.

The fence they refer to is very handy to use and easy to make.

[Gabe Caraway]

No doubt it's easy to make, but my old circ. saw is the problem. It's a Black and Decker that I remember being at least 25 years old. The motor is a little larger than today's models so the guide doesn't work with the 1*6s. I should get thinner wood.

Anyway, I guess I shouldn't short-change myself. I was going to free-hand the cuts and just use factory edges for any front-facing pieces. Slight curves could be out of sight in the rear. Looking for short-cuts probably isn't the right attitude for a blossoming woodworker, though.

Thanks, Glen.

[Jeremy Greiner]

The fence they refer to is very handy to use and easy to make.
+1 the fence, I tried to freehand, then tried a straight edge both are frustrating.

This fence is about as close you can get to a track saw without the cost.

-jeremy

[Jeff Bratt]

No doubt it's easy to make, but my old circ. saw is the problem. It's a Black and Decker that I remember being at least 25 years old. The motor is a little larger than today's models so the guide doesn't work with the 1*6s. I should get thinner wood.

If you make this simple fence that fits your saw there are (at least) three benefits:
1) You get very straight cuts. With a good blade, you can get finished cuts to final dimensions using your circular saw.
2) Since the saw trims the edge of the fence on its first use, the edge of the fence defines the cutting edge. You just measure where you want the cut, and place the edge of the fence on the marks, clamp and saw. (This answers your question about the phrase in red.) Just make sure the fence is over the workpiece - the saw kerf does have width...
3) The fence protects your work from possible damage caused by sliding the saw over the workpiece.

I use my guides on a simple table (http://home.roadrunner.com/%7Ejeffnann/WoodWorking/JigsAndFixtures/JigsAndFixtures.html#Circular_Saw_Guide_) - which I find easier than working on the floor. I can easily clamp the fence and workpiece to the table.

[Braun Reszler]

This is a great idea for us beginners, I would have never thought of that, Id be dealing with all the complicated measuring since my freehand cuts look like a country road on a map. Thanks for posting.