Vacuum spindle adapter issues - or, this sucks

[Nigel Tracy]

Man I was moments away from having my vacuum system fully operational for the first time!

After weeks of finding a pump on the bay, ordering the right bearing, picking up all the little hoses and parts, putting it all together, and making the spindle adapter, I was finally ready! I hooked it all up, turned on the pump, increased the vacuum by closing the bleeder valve, and then my heart sank when the bearing I used in the homemade spindle adapter "blew its gasket".

There was an audible "pop" and then whooshing from the bearing. It's hard to see in the cellphone image but the black "gasket" just got sucked right in :(:confused:

When purchasing the bearing from the supplier I specifically told the salesperson what it was for and he said he'd get me a sealed bearing for that...

Just thought I'd share my experiences for anyone else making their own adapter. My question is: does anyone know what type of bearing is needed for this application?

Man I was so close... and even have a few pieces lined up to use it...

[Bernie Weishapl]

Can't help ya with the bearing Nigel. Others probably will chime in but I had the same problem. I tried 3 different bearings. I ordered my adapter from J T Turning Tools.

[bob svoboda]

I did the JT Turning Tools thing too and have never been sorry I spent that money.

[Tim Rinehart]

Nigel,
I made a very similar design and have used it extensively without problem. I used a 6203-2RS bearing I got of online auction, I believe thru VXB bearings.
I gave about 6 bucks for it. Napa also sells these and other size bearings, but you'll pay more. Here's a pic of mine.

From sounds of what you're describing...that bearing did not have a very stiff seal. The black seal on mine and other sealed bearings I've bought for other stuff are WAY to stiff to be sucked in from outside.

Perhaps a few other pics would clarify how this failed, and a rough diagram of your adapter design will yield any potential for improvement.

[Don Geiger]

I too belive the JT is about the best thing I've seen for this application. Some things just aren't worth messing with, especially when there are perfectly good solutions available at a reasonable price.


Don Geiger

[Nigel Tracy]

Thanks everybody for chiming in on this :)


I too belive the JT is about the best thing I've seen for this application. Some things just aren't worth messing with, especially when there are perfectly good solutions available at a reasonable price.


Don GeigerHi Don,

I paid $5.50 for the bearing and used scrap wood, a bit of CA and epoxy and voila. Sounds like Tim did the same thing with the proper bearing and great success. I do believe this is one area where it's worth saving a few bucks, especially since it's a 5 min job on the lathe to create a wooden version.
Any commercial adapter I've seen (at least readily available here in Canada) runs over $100. Is there a cheaper solution on the market somewhere?

OK guys, I'll call that salesperson and let him know he sold me a wimpy bearing!

Thanks again

[Ed Heuslein]

There are bearings and then there are bearings. At that price you probably got one made in China. If you tell the store you want a bearing made in the US, and you are willing to pay about 3 times as much, you will have much happier results. I've made several similar to yours and have had no problems. But, my supplier told me several years ago about the differences in quality. You get what you pay for. :)

[Josh Bowman]

Goggle or ebay rotating adapters. Apparently they are use alot in industry and get parted out off of machines. The downside is you have to find one that will fit in your hand wheel. A buddy of mine simple took a chunk of aluminum and turned it to fit and replace my Jet hand wheel.

[Don Geiger]

It think the JT was about $80 or $90 US and it comes with a nicely machined male pipe with two O-rings. It also comes with a male barbed 90 degree fitting used for attaching the vacuum hose. It slips right in to the hole in the spindle on the handwheel side and does not require the threaded lamp tube and the fitting on the other end.

I've got two of the threaded pipe type of systems and they work OK but take more time to install than the JT. The the JT won't leak like what happens with the pipe systems. I was really impressed when I saw the JT.


Don Geiger





Thanks everybody for chiming in on this :)

Hi Don,

I paid $5.50 for the bearing and used scrap wood, a bit of CA and epoxy and voila. Sounds like Tim did the same thing with the proper bearing and great success. I do believe this is one area where it's worth saving a few bucks, especially since it's a 5 min job on the lathe to create a wooden version.
Any commercial adapter I've seen (at least readily available here in Canada) runs over $100. Is there a cheaper solution on the market somewhere?

OK guys, I'll call that salesperson and let him know he sold me a wimpy bearing!

Thanks again

[Doug Wolf]

Nigel,
Here is a link to my post awhile ago that might help you find a good bearing for your adaptor:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1309068#post1309068

I'm sure the adaptors from JT are excellent but some of us like to experiment and save some money at the same time.

My vacuum system is still working fine and don't know how I got along without it for so long.

[Jeff Nicol]

Nigel, There are lots of sealed bearings on the market that just have a plastic or stiff rubber that is used to seal the bearings and the race inside the bearing. I would find a bearing that has a stainless cover or steel of some sort that is used to seal the bearings, this will not get sucked in. Also a bearing that is a bit thicker or wider that has a double set of balls in it will not leak as easily.

Like they say you get what you pay for, most of the time.....sometimes inexpensive turns out to be the best.

Good luck,

Jeff

[Rich Aldrich]

Buy an SKF, Timken (Timken bought out Torrington) or FAG (German - I dont know what FAG stands for in German) ball bearing. These are the most popular brands in industry. NSK and NTN are starting to become more popular.

I just pulled out my SKF product guide. The 2RS is sealed on boths sides with sheet metal reinforcement - basically a metal shield. I can't find in the catalog what maximum vacuum level the seal will withstand, but you probably won't have an issue with these name brand bearings.

[Josh Bowman]

Check this post
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=149692