No. 18 - Plum HF - "Critique Requested"

[James Combs]

This is my first Hollow form using my new Mini Monster Rig... ooh didn't I tell you about that..:rolleyes: anyway it is a relatively small form but I think that the plum has tremendous looking grain and color. Except for a series of cracks (CA&Dust filled) on one side that were in the original blank it turned out great but let me know what you think.

You will notice a ledge inside the opening. That is going to be for a cap/lid/finial or something, just haven't made up my mind yet. If you saw my previous posting of the birdhouse I am leaning toward something like the bottom feature of the birdhouse only turned 180* and without the point. Would appreciate your opinions on the "lid-ing" too. I will re-post after the lid is finished.

Stats:
Material = Local Plum
Height = 2-7/8"
Diameter = 4-7/8"
Wall thickness ~1/8
Finish = 3 Coats of Waco Danish Natural Oil - Will Beal Triple buff in a week or two.

[Tim Rinehart]

Looks almost like cherry...I suspect it wants to crack like cherry too!

Pretty wood and nice finish. I think my primary comments for the size of this HF would be in the size and transition to the opening, and the size of the foot.
I hate how wobbly HFs tend to get when the foot is very small...but the flow and visual appeal of a smaller foot allows the eye to look over the entire piece, not just the center, as my eye is on this. I can tell you I've taken several pieces where I thought the foot was small enough, but took it off the lathe, and then regretted not going smaller. Vicious circle!!

A smaller opening or perhaps the use of a contrasting ring of blackwood or other dark wood would be nice on this piece at the top with your finial, and would allow you to close it up a bit.

Which type of hollowing do you have, captured bar or articulating?

[Roger Chandler]

Nice form JD..........I think that monster system is paying off for you. I like the plum and the form. It has a pottery style [classic shape] and the grain is nice.

I think your idea of a lid and finial will add to this overall. How long has this wood dried before turning it? What drying method did you use? Was it twice turned, or did you do a DNA soak or some other drying method?

[John Keeton]

JD, looks very nice. I am not very informed on the SW forms, but my personal tastes would have a less pronounced return curve on the bottom - or none at all. And, probably less of an opening - though I kind of like more open forms.

If you lid it, and do a finial, it will be challenging to get the proportions right, I suspect. The form is very petite. Perhaps just a contrasting collar to reduce the opening?? Just not sure.

The real question is - are you coming to the club meeting tonite? And, are you going to bring this piece for show and tell?:)

[Dennis Ford]

As a "stand alone" piece the widest section is too near the middle for my taste. A finial will improve the proportions greatly. Continuing the curve into a finial may be a challenge but will be worth the trouble I think.

[Josh Bowman]

James.....that looks plum nice:D
The wood is interesting. I like the color and the grain.

[David E Keller]

It's pretty wood and nicely finished. As mentioned before, the widest portion of the form would look better IMHO if it were a little higher or lower to get to that mystical 1/3 to 2/3 ration. I like the idea of a contrasting collar better than a lid/finial, but I'd be tempted to try it both ways to see which one pans out better. The steep curve near the opening will make it challenging to blend into a lid. I also agree with JK's comments about the return curve near the base. With all that said, I think the piece is pretty and interesting as it is, and only critic that matters is you(and your wife:eek::D).

[Steve Schlumpf]

James - very interesting non-traditional form. Pretty wood and I do like the soft finish.

If you wanted to go in the more 'traditional' direction, then the point that a few folks have made about the widest portion of the form being at 1/3 or 2/3 the height is worth noting.

Another - just general rule for me - is that the base should not be more than 1/3 the width of the piece. That is more a personal preference thing for me but anything over 1/3 width always looks clunky. Course, if you are turning an art piece - then the foot needs to be only large enough to keep the piece from wobbling.

The size of the opening has a lot to do with the function of the piece. If it is to be used - then it must be fairly wide to allow access to the interior. If it is intended as a display/art piece - then the opening should be fairly small.

Course, the key to all this is that everything must be blended together with a continuous curve between all the elements. Your piece has a nice curve to it - just play with placement of the elements a little bit and see if you like the results.

Have fun! Looking forward to seeing your next HF!

[James Combs]

Looks almost like cherry...I suspect it wants to crack like cherry too!
Pretty wood and nice finish. I think my primary comments for the size of this HF would be in the size and transition to the opening, and the size of the foot.
I hate how wobbly HFs tend to get when the foot is very small...but the flow and visual appeal of a smaller foot allows the eye to look over the entire piece, not just the center, as my eye is on this. I can tell you I've taken several pieces where I thought the foot was small enough, but took it off the lathe, and then regretted not going smaller. Vicious circle!!

A smaller opening or perhaps the use of a contrasting ring of blackwood or other dark wood would be nice on this piece at the top with your finial, and would allow you to close it up a bit.

Which type of hollowing do you have, captured bar or articulating?


I really appreciate your perspective and comments. Personally I don't think the opening is large enough to go with a collar but I do want to try that on a future form. I may fake a small one as part of the finial so that it comes off with finial.
My new hollowing system is the Mini Monster Articulated arm w/o the capture system. I barely was able to afford that.:eek:


Nice form JD..........I think that monster system is paying off for you. I like the plum and the form. It has a pottery style [classic shape] and the grain is nice.

I think your idea of a lid and finial will add to this overall. How long has this wood dried before turning it? What drying method did you use? Was it twice turned, or did you do a DNA soak or some other drying method?

The tree was dead for sometime while standing. A friend of mine took it down last fall and the blanks have been sitting outside the door of my shop since then.:eek: So I don't really have a clue as to its dryness although it seem very dry while turning. The crack as noted in the OP were already in the blank when I started turning. I was hoping to turn past them:(.


JD, looks very nice. I am not very informed on the SW forms, but my personal tastes would have a less pronounced return curve on the bottom - or none at all. And, probably less of an opening - though I kind of like more open forms.

If you lid it, and do a finial, it will be challenging to get the proportions right, I suspect. The form is very petite. Perhaps just a contrasting collar to reduce the opening?? Just not sure.

The real question is - are you coming to the club meeting tonite? And, are you going to bring this piece for show and tell?:)

Sorry, I did not remember it in time to get there. I am going to put me a reminder in Outlook.


James - very interesting non-traditional form. Pretty wood and I do like the soft finish.

If you wanted to go in the more 'traditional' direction, then the point that a few folks have made about the widest portion of the form being at 1/3 or 2/3 the height is worth noting.

Another - just general rule for me - is that the base should not be more than 1/3 the width of the piece. That is more a personal preference thing for me but anything over 1/3 width always looks clunky. Course, if you are turning an art piece - then the foot needs to be only large enough to keep the piece from wobbling.

The size of the opening has a lot to do with the function of the piece. If it is to be used - then it must be fairly wide to allow access to the interior. If it is intended as a display/art piece - then the opening should be fairly small.

Course, the key to all this is that everything must be blended together with a continuous curve between all the elements. Your piece has a nice curve to it - just play with placement of the elements a little bit and see if you like the results.

Have fun! Looking forward to seeing your next HF!

I will be buffing up the finish later on after I know every thing is nice and dry.

I appreciate all the observations and suggestions. I originally wanted a shape similar to an m&m but got it too thick(tall) and didn't want to waste anymore wood. I will be adding a (probably 2 piece) finial to it next week and will re-post a couple of pics of it.

[Bernie Weishapl]

James that is a nice looking HF. You have gotten some good advice. Keep'em coming.

[charlie knighton]

very nice, plum is very hard to find

[Steve Vaughan]

That's a beautiful wood color and grain, and a beautiful job with it! I noticed the numbers on the bottom, what did you use to do those?

[James Combs]

very nice, plum is very hard to find

I know, If a friend had not cut down a dying one in his yard I would probably never have had the opportunity to turn Plum.


That's a beautiful wood color and grain, and a beautiful job with it! I noticed the numbers on the bottom, what did you use to do those?

The numbers are from a steel punch set of numbers and letters that has a handle that works like one those automatic center punches, i.e. the push and click type. You punch each number one at a time. I had to change the spring inside the handle to reduce the punching force. The original was for punching steel. It wanted to damage the wood. After the numbers are punched I fill in the indents with a real sharp lead pencil to improve contrast then finish over top of it.


Again thanks tp everyone one for your comments.