Bought used Skil 1810 router, did I get burned??

[Duane Bledsoe]

I bought a used but in really nice condition Skil 1810 router today, and it came with the table also. Trouble is, the router has no sub base to put on and use it freehand without the table, and the table itself has no fence or miter gauge or anything. All I got was a router and a table. I paid $30 for it. Can I use it the way it is?? I'm thinking I can make a fence from MDF or some scrap wood or maybe make a sub base from plexiglas or lauan plywood.

I did not own a router prior to this and I just wanted to get into woodworking as quickly as possible without having to wait until I can acquire all the necessary tools "brand new" to get started as that would be expensive and a while in coming but I'm ready to start now. I mainly want to make small projects for now such as wall hanging shelves with rounded over edges or ogee edges. Figured I could set it up with a bit in it and then just leave it so I can run a lot of the same type cuts with it.

Also, is this router any good?? I got online to look at the owner's manual and see how to adjust the depth and the way it adjusts it seems as if it makes the router motor pull more to one side than it should. Seems that it's possible to get the bit out of square with the table surface if you aren't careful. I'm not sure I should have bought this but the opportunity was there and I jumped on it thinking it was a good deal.

[Lance Norris]

Duane... you should be able to make a fence, and a sub base. Check here for info, http://www.patwarner.com/ . He doesnt list a base for your router, but Im sure he could make you one. Call him up and see, if you dont want to try making one yourself.

[steven c newman]

I bought one of those routers from a store, brand new. I have had some issues with the base not staying put. When running free-hand, the motor part would just slide down, making a deeper cut. I'm going to try some shims in the clamp area, just to try to keep it in one place. I did make a sub-base for it out of 1/4" Flexan. The Skil base has too large an opening to put in any P-C guide bushings. The router itself runs fine, IF i can just keep things locked down. Your's would still be a nice "starter" router.

[Norman Pyles]

A fence for a router table can be just a straight board clamped to the table. Watch a few of the Router Workshop shows, that's how they do their fence. I actually like using the router in the table better than free hand, but a sub base could be made easily. Now as for the Skil router, this was the first router I owned. While it's not the best, it will work. I built a few projects with mine, and then sold it after I got a Dewalt. Buy a couple of inexpensive bits, and use it awhile since you already bought it.

[John McClanahan]

I think you did OK. I've seen sub-bases made from masonite, or you could use plexiglass. That would get you started. A fence can be as simple as a straight board and a pair of C clamps to hold it to the table.

John

[James Baker SD]

the price was good, I think you did OK.

James

[scott spencer]

This isn't a router that I'd typically recommend, but you've got it, and it wasn't overly expensive. You'll be limited to 1/4" shank bits, but it should work for you.

[Duane Bledsoe]

Thanks for the replies. I feel better about it now. At the same time I got it I also got a really old Craftsman Commercial router as well. I gave $25 for it. It was in the original hard plastic case and it came with the owner's manual, an edge guide, and a small case of bits as well. It has the sub base on it so I have a router to do free hand stuff with. It's not nearly as powerful since it's only a 6.5 amp motor but it seems to cut just fine. I tried it out on a 2x4 I had laying here and put a 3/8 roundover bit in it and it did the job nicely so I'm tickled with it. I think I'll just leave the Skil in the table it came with and make a fence for it to start out with since I have this other one to work with out of the table.

To the poster who mentioned guide bushing inserts for the Skil......I downloaded a manual for the Skil router and it mentioned that you need another insert for the sub base to hold the guide bushings in place. Seems it has to screw down to two available holes in the sub base for it to stay in and then insert the bushings.

I think I'm going to do a good bit of reading and research on routers before I invest in a new one to make sure I get one that will do the things I will want and need.

[Will Overton]

As for the sub-base for the Skil, if it's not too far away, see if the guy has it laying around. He may have taken it off so long ago that he forgot about it.

There are over 3 dozen episodes of the Router Workshop online. They are worth watching as the father an son team will show you how little you need to have a productive router table. Heck, they position and hold the fence on with "C" clamps.

I think you did well.

http://www.woodworkingchannel.com/dolphin/vidego_video_library.php

The Router Workshop is the eigth tab.

[steven c newman]

Currently mine is not being used. I have a base out of Flexan (plexiglass), so the original base is not needed. Have an address you want it sent to?

[steven c newman]

A picture of mine, with a Flexan base. The original black plastic base is available if you need it. Gratis.:cool:

[Curt Harms]

If you have forstner bits it isn't hard to make your own base that will accept Porter-Cable style bushings. If not, Pat Warner makes excellent quality stuff for very fair prices.

[Joe Spear]

A Pat Warner base, which would be excellent, would cost you more than you paid for the router, which is a not a very good one. Make your own base and start saving up to get a better router.

[steven c newman]

A new base for this one was made by me. It takes two sizes of Forstner bits to make the hole for the guide bushing. The old black plastic one that came with the router is surplus to me. The base is the picture was to hang this router from a router table. It turned out to be a little too flimsy, so it will be used a different way. The one for the P-C bushing works just fine, IF I can keep the router locked in the right height.