Pancake compressing with no tank pressure

[Jeff Strickler]

I just purchased a new Porter-Cable pancake air compressor, turned it on, and I get no tank pressure. I can let it run for more than ten minutes without getting anything. I checked that the drain valve was shut, safety valve closes like it should too - so I don't *think* it's anything obvious. Anybody have any experience with these things? Would seem surprising to me that it would be a defective unit right out of the box like that but I'm beginning to think that's the case - first time using an air compressor so I'm assuming the problem is my own inexperience.


Thanks in advance.

[Andy Sowers]

I have one of those porter cable pancakes... if i recall correctly, the drain valve on the bottom of the unit is somewhat counter-intuitive... you need to rotate it until the valve is fully extended for it to seal (twist it clockwise till it stops).

That said, if it were leaking out the drain valve i think you'd probably know it because there'd be a fair amount of air coming out of it...

Do you have anything hooked up to the tank when it wont hold pressure, or just the compressor itself?

andy

[Charles Thomas]

That compressor uses a molded gasket between the compressor head and block to retain the outlet tube and make a seal. It would nearly have to be missing for it not to build up any pressure. I guess it could be a Monday morning build. I would return it if it isn't pumping though. I have replaced the seal several times and it takes a bit of time to do so.

[Rich Engelhardt]

It's new - if you verify there isn't any air coming out of the drain valve, just pack it back up and return it.

[Fred Belknap]

That happened to me with a Kobalt 60 gal. I called the company and all they had to say was I had it wired for 120 instead of 220. Called Lowes and they said just bring it back and they would give me another. It has been running for four years.:)

[Jeff Strickler]

Well, it turned out to not be a problem with the unit so much as a flaw in the documentation. Andy was right - the drain valve work in what to me is a counter-intuitive way, and is described in a misleading way in the manual as well. Thanks for the tips everyone.

[Curt Harms]

check if the tank will hold its pressure. I have a Sears that had the same type of valve. The tank would leak down after about 3 days. Did the tire valve stem leak check (bit of spit in the opening) and it bubbled. I removed the factory drain and replaced it with a street ell, nipple and ball valve. The valve is now where I can reach it easily with the compressor sitting on the floor. It's now easy to drain the tank and it'll hold pressure for a month or more. Before I had to tilt the compressor to open the drain valve. Tilting the compressor would cause any water to run away from the drain hole.

[Dan Hintz]

I'm still trying to find a reliable method to prevent my valve from rusting open... I've tried greases and oil, but when I open it to release the pressure, I'm sure the air just blows it out of there (though I would have expected a residue to remain). If I don't use the compressor for a couple of months, I need to grab it with some pliers.

[Greg Bender]

Dan,
do the same thing that you do to your airtools.When it's drained open the drain valve and drop some air tool oil in to the tank and it will migrate to the valve when you drain the moisture the next time.
Greg

[Rich Engelhardt]

I'm still trying to find a reliable method to prevent my valve from rusting open
Use a brass valve and don't "gorilla" it open or closed.

You can pick one up almost anywhere for well under $5.00.

Edit to add - my IR with a knurled thumbscrew is difficult to open or close.
My ancient (25years old +) Coleman has a wing nut style that operates like it's brand new.

It's one of those things I keep meaning to replace - but - never remember when I'm @ the store.

[Dan Hintz]

Rich,

Yeah, it's a question of leverage with mine. As with your IR, mine is a 1/4" knurled screw, so just the smallest amount of rust is a problem. I don't have to grip it so tight with the pliers it messes up the knurling, I just need more leverage than my bare fingers can muster.

[Michael Wildt]

Rich,

Yeah, it's a question of leverage with mine. As with your IR, mine is a 1/4" knurled screw, so just the smallest amount of rust is a problem. I don't have to grip it so tight with the pliers it messes up the knurling, I just need more leverage than my bare fingers can muster.


Just replace it with a piece of plumbing and then a ball valve. Problem solved. I use a 90 degree bend + 4" nipple + ball valve. You should be able to find it in the local hw store. Add some pipe compound or teflon tape to the joints.

[Lee Schierer]

I'm still trying to find a reliable method to prevent my valve from rusting open... I've tried greases and oil, but when I open it to release the pressure, I'm sure the air just blows it out of there (though I would have expected a residue to remain). If I don't use the compressor for a couple of months, I need to grab it with some pliers.

Why leave it open? Once you vent the air close the valve. There isn't going to be enough air circulation leaving the valve open to dry the inside of the tank.