stable construction grade lumber for miter saw station?

[James Baker SD]

I am trying to build a miter saw station about 13 feet total length. I plan on the table surfaces to be made of baltic birch ply, with the saw and fence system mounted on top of the table surface. I would like to attach the the ply to some kind of long (single 13' foot pieces if possible) boards (2x4 milled down or similar). The whole thing will be supported by 4 steel storage cabinets (gladiator gear box or something similar).

Question is what is a good lumber to use for the long rail pieces. I want something that will stay flat and true after I have jointed them and planed down to uniform thickness. I am counting on these to help keep the baltic birch flat.

James

[Neil Brooks]

I'd think ... if you pick through the construction grade Doug Fir, at your lumber yard or the BORG, you can find some good, straight pieces.

If you start wide (2x10 or 2x12), you should be able to cut away knots, defects, etc., leaving you with good, clear, straight grain.

In theory, though, you could also underpin the platform with some square steel bar stock.

Sounds like a fun, and useful project. Good luck !

[Steve Griffin]

James,
Every miter station I have built has used zero lumber, except for a white oak or mahogany fence. Sheet goods are extremely stable, cheap and strong.

I've always used melamine for the top, so wood slides easily, and 8-10" birch or AC ply for the front and back. Plywood "Ribs" are used every 2-3' to make the sheetgoods lock into square. Sort of a torsion box, though I don't bother with a bottom piece. Lots of pocket screws is a good way to attach the top.

-Steve

[James Baker SD]

A bit more detail on what I was thinking. I want 4 cabinets as the base (need the storage space badly) and was going to group them 3 together and 1 off by itself leaving an open space of about 4'. The saw would sit above this open space so I would not stub my toes when using it and the shop vac for dust collection would sit under here as well. One side from the saw is a 3" Besiemeyer table/fence, the other side is a matching 8' table/fence. The 8' fence largely sits over the 3 grouped cabinets and the 3' fence over the single cabinet. With the 2' width of the saw, the total length is about 13'.

The table/fences have a smooth, white surface, probably melamine, so my job is to build something to sit on top of the cabinets, straddling the open space and giving me a flat, level surface to bolt/screw the saw and fences. I cannot use a single 13' piece of baltic birch, so it will be a splice job. I am trying to figure out the support structure for the splice.

I am leaning toward the gladiator gear boxes which have a ledge around the top so 1 piece of 3/4" ply is required to clear the metal ledge for each cabinet. Now I need to put my main surface (spliced baltic birch) above the 3/4" squares to support the saw and fences. Keeping that support surface flat and level in my concern.
James

[glenn bradley]

I have tried and failed with KD construction fir enough to learn. The amount of waste costs you more than buying some decent poplar (or whatever the inexpensive secondary wood is in your area) and factoring in the usual 10 - 20% spoil guesstimate.

Dad built his workbench base out of 8/4 poplar after watching my KD fir base just keep on moving . . . I will have to tear most of it apart and re-do it. Dad's is stable and rock solid. That inexpensive lumber certainly didn't save me any time or money. Learn from other's mistakes; its cheaper. JMHO.

[Jim O'Dell]

How much height above the side cabinets do you have? If you have or want 3" or so, I'd use 1/2" MDF and make a torsion box. My Miter station has 10' 2" on each side. I have the base built so I have storage underneath, and a 3" thick torsion box made with 3/4" MDF, laminate on the visible surfaces, and painted or sealed on the others. The torsion boxes "float" with adjusters to level it out and actually make co-planer with the TS top. Jim.

[paul cottingham]

I built mine with some 2x4's that I jointed. nice and straight and clear.

[David Helm]

Have you ever seen this stuff? It is 1 1/8 inch HDO (high density overlay). It is sold as concrete form boards. Very flat, very stable, doesn't need extra support. The plywood is 11 plies with no voids. Very smooth overlay and no need to add laminate. I use it for my mitre saw station and for mobile bases, among other things. Mitre saw station is built on old base cabinets for plenty of storage.

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[Steve Griffin]

So you need to span a whopping 4' or so? While I'm not sure I follow your need for hardwood very well, I'd still say with some cleverness you could use sheetgoods entirely, even if they have to have a splice or two along your 13' long table.

Of course you are are talking to someone who likes a miter saw at 42-48", so there is no need to keep the height of the miter saw table to a minimum.

-steve

[James Baker SD]

I bought 2 sheets of 3/4" (18mm) baltic birch today and will do the entire thing from this as a pseudo torsion box. The saw's table will end up around 41" from the floor. Thanks every one for the ideas.

James

[Jason White]

You could just laminate strips of plywood to match the size of 2x material. Much more stable. Jason


I am trying to build a miter saw station about 13 feet total length. I plan on the table surfaces to be made of baltic birch ply, with the saw and fence system mounted on top of the table surface. I would like to attach the the ply to some kind of long (single 13' foot pieces if possible) boards (2x4 milled down or similar). The whole thing will be supported by 4 steel storage cabinets (gladiator gear box or something similar). Question is what is a good lumber to use for the long rail pieces. I want something that will stay flat and true after I have jointed them and planed down to uniform thickness. I am counting on these to help keep the baltic birch flat. James