Cutting Rough Blocks Round

[Rich Aldrich]

I have a ShopFox band saw with 12" capacity. When I make a small bowl blank "round", I have no problems with the guides.

Everytime I get 6" or taller blanks, I have difficulty keeping the blade on the saw. The blade deflects goes along side the bearing which keeps the blade position in the feed direction. Then the blade comes off the top wheel and kinks up. The blade is junk after that. I went through two 3/8 - 3TPI AS Timber Wolf blades this week.

I am thinking about getting cool blocks for guides, but maybe there is something wrong with existing set up. I have tried to set it up to the manual and have gone through the Bandsaw Book, but I cant find what adjustments are messed up.

Maybe it is the way I cut?

[Harvey Ghesser]

Sounds like you need to tension the blade a lot more...:eek:

[Rich Aldrich]

The first blade was at maximum tension a lasted for less than one bowl blank. For the second blade, the tension was set per the instructions with the blade, which was a lot looser. It was more in the range for a 3/8 blade or just under according to the tensioning scale. It lasted for probably 12 bowl blanks.

[Reed Gray]

Could be a number of things. If your bandsaw is new, it needs a tune up. Make sure the wheels are parallel (lay a straight edge along both wheels to see), and in the same plane. The blade also needs to be centered on the wheel. With the saw off, and preferably unplugged, spin the wheels after you have tensioned the blade. If it moves at all, you have to adjust the tracking. When it no longer drifts, then adjust your side and thrust bearings. The thrust bearing/blocks (the ones on the back of the blade) need to be perfectly in line with the blade. If either one is off, the blade will move. There are a couple of books out there that tell how to do this.

I am lucky to have a bandsaw blade maker/dealer here in town, and he is one of those guys who has forgotten more than I will ever know about bandsaws. One thing he told me is that the tensioner gages on the bandsaws are at best way off. It is better to over tighten.

There are differences in the thickness of the blades, and for resawing, which you are doing, you need a thicker blade, especially when you are cutting thicker pieces. Talk to your bandsaw blade source. For cutting over 3 to 4 inches, I would want a 1/2 inch blade.

If your blanks are not almost perfectly flat, they will rock as you cut out the rounds, which will mess up/bind your blade.

When the blades start getting dull, they will drift a lot more, but since the blades are pretty new, that doesn't sound like the problem. Some blades are stamped, and then the teeth are set. If they are not set right, the blade will track to one side.

Of course, never force a cut. If it isn't cutting easily, then some thing is not right.

robo hippy

[Hilel Salomon]

Hi,

Many questions before I could reply. Are you cutting green or dried wood? What width blade and how many teeth per inch. Timberwolf makes a specific blade for cutting green wood, and Highland Hardware has specific blades for this as well. The tension on the blade depends a great deal on who is making it. There have been numerous posts here in the forum on which blade size, teeth, etc. to use.

Hilel.

[ed hoxter]

rich, i had the same problem friday. after going thru everything i finally found the problem. somehow my tracking device had got way out of alignment. correct tension is very important also. good luck ed