Finish for Padauk (or is it Paduk)?

[Matt Day]

However you spell it, I've made a few large picture frames from Paduak and I'm wondering how to finish them. I put in maple splines at the miters for contrast, and want to watch out for color bleeding. It has done so a little already from sanding, but I think a combination of additional sanding and my air compressor will do the trick prior to finishing. My biggest concern is getting some UV protection on there to preserve the color as long as possible. I've read a few different ways to do this.

The woodwhisperer recommends to "pre-seal the surface using Bullseye SealCoat. Its a dewaxed shellac that helps to seal off the oil. As a result, it also prevents deep absorption of oils in the finish. So I would probably leave the BLO out of the mix, and just apply thin coats of a wiping varnish (poly + turpentine)."

I've also read to use a water-based finish for this, so I've narrowed down these products available at my local woodcraft, which both have a UV protectant in them:
General Finishes High Performance Polyurethane
Varathane Exterior Water-Based Finish - I don't know much about this product but it looks like it fits the bill based on the woodcraft description.

I also have some Bullseye Shellac that I might try on some test pieces.

I don't want to have to buy every finish just for a sample piece, so I'd like to just buy one or two things.

Shoud I use a sanding sealer? Would that help stop bleeding the color to the maple?

I could some help here guys.

Thanks

[Scott Holmes]

Clean the maple to get all the color off the maple then use dewaxed shellac Zinnser Seal Coat shellac and wipe it or brush it from the maple to the Padauk. This should seal the maple and you should be good to go.

Don't use poly; pick a better varnish... Poly is for floors, period.

[Matt Day]

Scott,

Just about everything I've read about padauk is to not use an oil-based finish as it will immediately darken the wood, which I'm trying to avoid.

You suggest varnish (which is oil based I believe), what exactly have you used on your padauk projects in the past?

[Jim Tobias]

Matt,
I have used some Padauk on a couple of frames and also on a coffee table. I put Danish Oil on both and then topcoated with lacquer. The frame has turned very dark as it is near direct sunlight. The coffee table is still pretty close to the color it was after the danish oil. IMHO, I don't think you will be able to keep it the bright orangish color it is right after sanding. I also think that direct sunlight impacts the staying power of the Padauk as much or more than anything else.

Jim

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Matt,

I turn padauk on occasion. To finish it, I will often use Zinsser's Sealcoat which is a dewaxed shellac. Over that you can use the finish of your choice. I often use Deft brushing lacquer.

[Matt Day]

It sounds like SealCoat is recommended by a lot of folks, so I'll probably give that shot.

I'm inclined to use a product that has some UV protection in it, though as some of you point out it may be futile. Would it be appropriate to use an exterior finish of some kind as most of them have UV protectants in them? I was looking at the Deft website and saw their Detfoil Exterior Wood Finish for instance.

[Scott Holmes]

Would it be appropriate to use an exterior finish of some kind as most of them have UV protectants in them?

In a word.... NO! Very soft finish; and most are made with poly or phenolic resin which darken a lot.

Shellac is not an oil finish and shellac is color fast it will never darken or turn yellow.
That may be the best finish choice overall for your project.

[Al Wasser]

From my limited experience with padauk, no matter what you do, over time it will turn almost black. I have asked a lot of people and no one has offered a solution other than keep it out sunlight. A picture frame will get sunlight even in a dark bedroom.

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> Just about everything I've read about padauk is to not use an oil-based finish as it will immediately darken the wood, which I'm trying to avoid.

That is correct but an even bigger negative to oil based finishes is that the finish will have significant drying problems due to the oil in the paduak. You can either first apply a dewaxed shellac or stick to a waterborne clear finish. For picture frames you certainly don't need a poly varnish.

The UV inhibitors added to exterior rated finishing products deteriorate fairly quickly as they absorb UV. Within a year or two, they will have lost all their protective qualities.

[Karl Card]

For what it is worth I have used deft gloss lacquer on padauk and it turned out beautiful. If I were to do a pic frame I believe I would use a satin deft lacquer. I do not, however, use the water based deft lacquer.
Nothing against it, just havent used it because the other exceeded my expectations.

[Jeff Bartley]

Matt,
I would try a wash coat of dewaxed shellac followed by a spar varnish. I like to use it like a wiping varnish: flood it on, sand it in, buff it off. This technique was described by Lon Schleining in a FWW article a couple years ago and has been my favorite since then.
One poster mentioned that the UV protection fades in a few years but if you were worried about that it wouldn't be a big deal to wipe on another coat or two every couple years.
How 'bout some pics of your frames when they're finished?
Take care,
Jeff

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> followed by a spar varnish.

Why "spar" varnish? Spar varnish is intended for exterior use. It's much higher in oil content and therefor very soft and less water vapor resistant. For interior use, an interior rated varnish or poly varnish would be more appropriate and protective.

[Jeff Bartley]

Spar for the uv protection which I've been told is the culprit for darkening woods (or lightening in the case of walnut). This could be incorrect....can anyone definitively say?

[Howard Acheson]

Spar varnish contains an additive to reduce the effect of UV deteriorating the finish. It is not intended to reduce the effects of UV on the underlying wood. Although it may have some affect on it.

That said, the UV additive functions by absorbing the UV. As it absorbs the UV it loses its effectiveness and will not work for more than a year or so. If the UV is high in the area, the finish will rather quickly become cloudy and more amber until it looses its adhesion and begins to peel or chip. At that point, it must be stripped and refinished. Poly varnishes are particularly susceptable to UV caused deterioration. Better to use a non-poly exterior varnish.

[Scott Holmes]

I'd say your best bet is LOW-E UV filtered glass in the windows and shellac on the wood picture frame.

[Matt Day]

I decided on shellac, and started with a coat of Bullseye Seal Coat then went to Bullseye Shellac (clear) cut to 1.5#.

My problem is with brush marks at the corners. I'll brush the first of 4 sides just fine, but I'm not sure the best way to do the other sides. I've tried both overlapping each corner, and starting just after the end of the last side.

Either way I seem to end up with brush marks at the corners.

Any suggestions?

I bought a $25 Purdy brush for shellac.

[Matt Day]

Anybody have any advice?

[Matt Day]

I saw a thread here on SMC that when the shellac is just about dry, to do a quick wipe with some DNA to soften any brush marks or ridges - would that help?

[Scott Holmes]

Buy a really good brush. Purdy are so-so at best. I have a few that were $50-$65 for a 2" quality brush. I like Ox hair brushes for shellac.