Mission: build pens

[John Pratt]

I apologize in advance for the vagueness of the question and the possibility of a multitude of responses/opinions, but I need a starting point. I am a woodworker (primarily just flat work) on a military installation (Fort Sill, Oklahoma). Recently an 800 year old tree fell here on post (I have not had a chance to look at the tree yet, but will follow up when I do). The boss gave me the mission that he wants to turn the tree into pens to give away at upcoming conferences, to soldiers, etc. I consider myself a novice turner and have no real experience turning pens (I am however a quick learner). With that said, where do I start with the pen turning? Can someone give me a “must have” list of equipment (mandrels, vises, glues, etc) that I need to make this happen? The boss’s rep like the look of the Jr. Statesman pen that so many of you have done in the past, but I cannot find a retailer that sells that kit. They then want the pens laser engraved and numbered, but I figured I would take it one step at a time.

Caveat: I have the PSI beginners guide to pen turning on the lathe CD (informative, but I want more info).

I will be turning on a Jet 1642VS #2MT.

John

[Mike Svoma]

John,

Sounds like a good mission. You can find the Jr. Statesman kits on the website for Craft Supplies USA, www.woodturnerscatalog.com (http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com)

I hope no-one deletes the link.

Mike

[Greg Just]

John:

I would suggest that you might want to find a local turning club and they could assist in instructing you in pen making.

Greg

[David E Keller]

There's a Woodcraft in OKC that could help you out getting started. I think their kit prices are rather high relative to some of the online retailers especially considering that you are talking about making a bunch of pens. You might also check out the International Association of Penturners website(IAP) for lots of information. The wood needs to be dry before turning, or the pens may split and crack.

[John Pratt]

I appreciate the responses. I know about the pen class at the local woodcraft, but I guess I am really after what equipment is a must have. I have a feeling if I ask the woodcraft guys the response will be different since they are trying to sell me something.

How dry are we talking? I still haven't seen the log but they are telling me it actually went down in the ice storm at the end of January. I know dry for my flat work, but I keep seeing guys in this forum turning stuff right off trees sometimes that can't possibly be completely dry. Of course that is just conjecture.

[Roger Chandler]

It looks like there is going to be a need to do DNA soaks for the pen blanks from this tree. I have not turned any pens as of yet, but I keep hearing about the DNA [denatured Alcohol] soak to speed the drying process dramatically.

If you could get a sawyer [portable bandsaw mill] to cut it up near the right thickness, etc, it would save you a lot of time as well.

800 year old wood.......what kind? that ought to have some seriously pretty grain in it!

[James Combs]

The basics that you will need are:

A turning device - Your Jet 1642VS lathe will do fine (some people have been known to turn pens on a drill press)
At least a small set of pen turning tools. Typically includes a small gouge, skew and parting tool.
A MT2 pen mandrel - like any shown here http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Pen_Making___Pen_Making_Tools?Args=
CA or 5 minute Epoxy glue. I use CA
Sand Paper to at least 600 grit. I like to go to 1800 grit.
Friction polish or other type of finish. I use CA for this as well as glue up. Search this forum for CA finishing and you will find several discussions about it.

Hope this helps and that I didn't miss anything. PM me if you need more detail on any of the above.

[Michael James]

John,
I will be at Ft Sill on Saturday 10/9 for a few hours. If you want to meet on base and you have a lathe near, PM me. I will clear an hour or so.
Michael

[Thom Sturgill]

Mandrel is a must and buy bushings to match the pen kit. Bushings are a consumable as you tend to sand right up onto the bushing reducing its size. I measure now before turning as I have had several pens where the wood mated perfectly to the bushing and then was too small to match the metal parts.

I use my regular 1 1/4" skew and regular spindle gouges. You do not need special gouges.

[Mark Hix]

The basics are pretty straight forward. How many pens are you talking about and when are they needed?

Some pens take longer to make than others. Some you have to be more precise in construction than others. The Sierra (aka Wallstreet) is a single barrel pen; takes 1/2 the wood a 2 barrel pen takes and is about the easiest to turn. Something with a cap or 2 sections that twist, takes more wood, more time, more finish and can require 2 different size holes.

There is a cost difference on the kits. At around $30/kit (depending on the plating) for the Jr. Statesman, it gets pretty pricey when you want to do a large volume of pens.

Assumming you can get the tree processed into boards and they are dry....
must have list:
Skew
small gouge
drill press or chuck to drill on the lathe
bits that match your pen choice
Mandrel (or there is a mandrelless technique)
bushings
calipers are a must because bushing wear down
sand paper 220 down to 600
glue to hold the tubes in. if i am rushed, CA, if not, 5 min epoxy.
Some way to buff

Finish will be a rowdy discussion.....I use CA and if you want to use it, can point you to a good source at a reasonable cost. Contrary to some discussion, it is not that hard to learn to do and there are lots of ways to do it. Mine is simple. PM me if you want it and I will write it up or search here, there are alot of processes posted here.

Laser engravers: probably one here will be able to help you out or there are some excellent ones that we can point you to.

Boxes that match? They need to fit the pen. How about velvet drawstring bags?

I just read thru some of the other postings...some if this is a repeat...sorry...kind of.

[Steve Mawson]

If the tree was live when it went down chances are that it is still way too wet to turn into pens. You don't want the wood moving after the pen is turned as there is a very good chance that it will crack. I would guess that if you cut over size blanks for the pens they would dry fairly fast, one inch square might work, probably need to coat the end grain to keep from checking. There are other ways to speed up the process that you can check here on the forum. Sounds like a great project, keep us informed on the progress.

[John Pratt]

I appreciate all the responses and help. Got to love a forum where the experienced jump in to help the vortex challenged.


John,
I will be at Ft Sill on Saturday 10/9 for a few hours. If you want to meet on base and you have a lathe near, PM me. I will clear an hour or so.
Michael

Michael-I sent you a PM. Please let me know if you got it. My outbox has nothing in it so I am not sure it actually went out.

John

[Mike Wenman]

Definitely lots of spot on information received already.

I use a very sharp skew to turn all my pens between centers...I don't use a mandrel at all...personal preference. Finish is typically 8 - 10 very light coats of CA.

Mark above mentioned laser engraver and I would recommend Ken Kallenshaan at http://www.kallenshaanwoods.com/servlet/StoreFront

Know many folks are exceptionally pleased with his work and fast turn-around time.

[Michael James]

Michael-I sent you a PM. Please let me know if you got it. My outbox has nothing in it so I am not sure it actually went out.

John

PM received and I repsonded.
mj

[Larry Dubia]

The basics that you will need are:

A turning device - Your Jet 1642VS lathe will do fine (some people have been known to turn pens on a drill press)
At least a small set of pen turning tools. Typically includes a small gouge, skew and parting tool.
A MT2 pen mandrel - like any shown here http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Pen_Making___Pen_Making_Tools?Args=
CA or 5 minute Epoxy glue. I use CA
Sand Paper to at least 600 grit. I like to go to 1800 grit.
Friction polish or other type of finish. I use CA for this as well as glue up. Search this forum for CA finishing and you will find several discussions about it.

Hope this helps and that I didn't miss anything. PM me if you need more detail on any of the above.





One very important detail was left out, the bushings for the particular pen being turned. And the specific drill bits for the pen tube being inserted. While woodworkers have a wide range of bits, the bits used on some pens can be different than a standard set has.