Wall Cabinets on Metal Studs

[Steve Mellott]

Can you use French cleats to install cabinets on a wall built with metal studs? If so, what kind of fasteners do you use to attach the cleat to the metal stud and how far into the stud do the fasteners have to go? Thanks.

[johnny means]

Metal studs are no good for hanging anything. You will need to use some sort of drywall anchor that can expand inside the wall.

[Steven Satur]

I have done this many times at work. If the wall is not rocked, add some 2X6 blocking. If it is rocked, try 2" #12 sheet metal screws into the studs. If you are carrying alot of weight, a french cleat is better, still you have to hit the stud with a #12. Steve

[Chris Rosenberger]

Metal studs are no good for hanging anything. You will need to use some sort of drywall anchor that can expand inside the wall.

What!!!

You can attach anything to metal studs that you can attach to wood studs.
You just need to use the proper screws.

http://www.mcfeelys.com/self-tapping-screws

[Steven Satur]

Self tapping screws will work only if the studs are heavy gauge. If they are your normal light gauge, the cutter will open up the hole too much and what ever you are hanging will pull the screw out of the stud. A sheet metal screw will work better.

[Bill Huber]

I hang stuff all the time at work on metal studs, I do pre-drill with a small bit and use sheet metal screws. I just hang 2, 42 in. Plasma TVs with no problem.

[Lee Koepke]

The french cleat also has the advantage of spreading the weight across many studs too.

Metal studs with drywall on both sides is capable of supporting cabinets, we do it in commercial applications all the time (usually with either strapping or inwall blocking) but on the occasions we dont have in wall blocking we can use a french cleat system.

[David Werkheiser]

I had a job a few years ago, where the adjustable shelf standards riped out of the drywall using toggle bolts (reams of copy paper dumped on floor). I reattached the standards on the center of metal studs, drilled 1/2" holes and used "Togglers"(reusable toggle bolts available @ H/D). The only way for these to come out is for the whole wall to come down. Overkill, perhaps but I don't need a lawsuit on commercial work.
DaveW

[Tom Godley]

Whenever I have had remodeling/ building done w/ metal studs -- I also have them install what we was always called "Kitchen Metal" at shelf height in any room I think I may need it. It then gets covered by the drywall.

It is a strip of metal - I think it is 6" wide but it may be 8" and I think they are 8' long. You attach it horizontally to the metal studs using a special self drilling screw. That is how they install kitchen cabinets on metal stud walls. Sometimes you use two strips at the top and bottom of the cabinet.

I would get the proper screws and use two screws in each stud -- you are basically doing the same thing except externally.

[Phil Thien]

I would use a wide cleat on the wall (12"+) and three to four screws at each stud. I'd also use construction adhesive between the cleat and the drywall. If you ever want to remove the cleat you'll need to back-out the screws and the cut out the drywall.

[Brian Ross]

I had a job a few years ago, where the adjustable shelf standards riped out of the drywall using toggle bolts (reams of copy paper dumped on floor). I reattached the standards on the center of metal studs, drilled 1/2" holes and used "Togglers"(reusable toggle bolts available @ H/D). The only way for these to come out is for the whole wall to come down. Overkill, perhaps but I don't need a lawsuit on commercial work.
DaveW Exactly how I do it. I hold the cabinet on the wall and use a 1/8 in drill to mark the holes into the studs. Put the cabinet down and do the 1/2 inch holes, add the toggler and up with the cabinet. If they do come down you had better hope your building is insured for earth quakes

Brian