Marv Werner
09-26-2010, 4:04 PM
This saw is a bit more DIY friendly. The concept is to eliminate the need for holes in the plate and to eliminate the slot in the handle/tote.
Also, I've always felt that the top of the handle that is mortised for the back is a bit aesthetically messy. And is a weak point. The majority of old backsaws I recondition will be cracked or broken near that mortise. Seems to be a disconnect between that part of the handle and the rest of the handle that is normally nicely radiused and contoured. To change that aspect, I mortised the underside of the handle, making the top closed and smooth. With the handle screwed only to the back, the handle can be designed to be set back away from the heel of the blade to allow for full use of the length of the blade without the cheeks on all backsaws being in the way.
I don't show it in these pictures, but I have a rubber bumper that fits into the mortise below the back and slips onto the back edge of the blade. This prevents accidental banging into the front of the handle.
The back is 1/4" x 3/4" coldroll steel bar stock. I milled a slot for the plate. The slot is the same width as the blade is thick. In this case, .030. The blade is pressed into the slot.
The saw screws go through the back and through the wood on both sides. The shaft has a female 10-32 thread in two of the screws and 8-32 in the front screw. The slotted head screws are 9/16" long allowing for lots of thread.
It has a 12" blade with 12PPI, filed crosscut, meant for general purposes. For the blade, I found a cheap 16" no-name saw on eBay and cut it down to 12" long. I did the cutting using a hacksaw.
The handle is made of Cherry. Nice wood to work with and is quite tough. One other thing I like about it, it becomes darker in color with age.
I'm not in the business of making saws for sale. I did this one only to create a new concept and perhaps give others ideas and inspiration to make a saw. This will probably be the only one I make.
Have fun :)
Marv
Also, I've always felt that the top of the handle that is mortised for the back is a bit aesthetically messy. And is a weak point. The majority of old backsaws I recondition will be cracked or broken near that mortise. Seems to be a disconnect between that part of the handle and the rest of the handle that is normally nicely radiused and contoured. To change that aspect, I mortised the underside of the handle, making the top closed and smooth. With the handle screwed only to the back, the handle can be designed to be set back away from the heel of the blade to allow for full use of the length of the blade without the cheeks on all backsaws being in the way.
I don't show it in these pictures, but I have a rubber bumper that fits into the mortise below the back and slips onto the back edge of the blade. This prevents accidental banging into the front of the handle.
The back is 1/4" x 3/4" coldroll steel bar stock. I milled a slot for the plate. The slot is the same width as the blade is thick. In this case, .030. The blade is pressed into the slot.
The saw screws go through the back and through the wood on both sides. The shaft has a female 10-32 thread in two of the screws and 8-32 in the front screw. The slotted head screws are 9/16" long allowing for lots of thread.
It has a 12" blade with 12PPI, filed crosscut, meant for general purposes. For the blade, I found a cheap 16" no-name saw on eBay and cut it down to 12" long. I did the cutting using a hacksaw.
The handle is made of Cherry. Nice wood to work with and is quite tough. One other thing I like about it, it becomes darker in color with age.
I'm not in the business of making saws for sale. I did this one only to create a new concept and perhaps give others ideas and inspiration to make a saw. This will probably be the only one I make.
Have fun :)
Marv