Sharpening question(s)

[Michael James]

OK, I have a ellsworth jig and set up the recommended distances for the same grind everytime... done. (fibreboard template for distance/height)
I also have the varigrind, and Joe M turned me on to Thompson's printable full size template for the angle to set, and a tip distance of 1.75" - not a problem.
Question: different gouges are set at different angles and so this is going to be done by changing distance from the wheel if the angle is constant, correct? Is there a way to calculate BEFORE GRINDING what that distance is? I have a a compass or 2 laying around and "get that", but I would think if the angle of the jig remains the same (and I dont question Thompon's suggested angle at all), and the distance the tip protrudes is constant, then the distance for each angle will be____ ?______.
Hopefully, you will help or refer me to the information.
Big thanks in advance....!;)

[David E Keller]

I'm not sure I understand your question(s), but I stick the tool in the jig. Then I stick the jig in the socket. Then I adjust the arm on the wolverine until the wheel matches the bevel. Turn it on and sharpen.

[Michael James]

I'm not sure I understand your question(s), but I stick the tool in the jig. Then I stick the jig in the socket. Then I adjust the arm on the wolverine until the wheel matches the bevel. Turn it on and sharpen.

Thanks David, that would work if the tool was at the correct bevel. I have a couple of POS that I would like to make usable without having to grind, check, grind check. Maybe I will have to do that to get them right... then I can just match it. Just thought there ought to be a formula.
Or, maybe..... how far back does one set the jig for a bowl gouge?

[Wayne Hendrix]

If you are using the varigrind 1 check out the raptor tools from Craft Supplies USA, they will set your angles for you. There can't be a fixed distance because you also have to take into account the diameter of the wheel and the height of the wheel over the jig. The raptor tools take all of these into account. I haven't used them but I think they were reviewed on here someplace. Sorry that I can't post links I am on my phone.

[Mark Hubl]

Michael,

Check out the Oneway website for video's. Pretty good.

Start on the flat platform to define the tip and wing angle that you are after. Be consistent with the tip extension in the varigrind. The distance of the base arm sets the tip angle. The position of the varigrind leg will change the wing angle.

Definetly a little practice is required to get used to how far over you need to role them to get the desired wing. Also, the black marker trick works well.

[Michael James]

Michael,


Start on the flat platform to define the tip .... Also, the black marker trick works well.

Thanks Mark, I figured it out and I will start on the flat platform. I have a magnetic device that measures angle so I can precisely defne the tip. Im going to go with Thompson's set up because it's simple, Im new and I wont know the difference. Except for the ellsworth ground gouge. Then when I move to the varigrind I will use the ol black marker and when I get it Im going to measure the distance, cut a measuring jig out of scrap and voila, no more magic marker!
A brain's a beautiful thing when it works.......:p

[Thom Sturgill]

Another vote for the raptor. They are a good way to keep the angle consistent despite wear on the wheel. They measure of the wheel face at two points to get a tangent. I have seen others that simply use a piece of plywood that was cut to size after setting the arm the way they wanted and testing it. Then they return to the same distance (but not the same angle) by setting the arm with the guide they made. The angle change is very minor and gradual.

[Michael James]

Another vote for the raptor. They are a good way to keep the angle consistent despite wear on the wheel. They measure of the wheel face at two points to get a tangent. I have seen others that simply use a piece of plywood that was cut to size after setting the arm the way they wanted and testing it. Then they return to the same distance (but not the same angle) by setting the arm with the guide they made. The angle change is very minor and gradual.

Hmmmmm. good point. I had not seen the raptor and I guess that is the only shortcut to the ol black sharpie line. Thanks guys, this whole process is indeed helpful. I need to use a bowl gouge without the ellsworth shape and get my other tools to correct angle.

[Paul Ray Moore]

Kirk DeHeer was at our club a couple of weeks ago and he gave us a template for the Varigrind.
The jig has 3 sizes that will change the angle from 40 to 50 degrees depending on the width.
The only thing about this, for my grinder, is that it shows the center line of the wheel to be 6" above the top of the jig. I have a delta and it is 5" above the top of the v-arm so I'd have to raise mine to use this jig. Oneway suggest that the center of the wheel is 6.25" to 6.5" from the base of the v-arms not the top so that is the way I set mine up.

Any way, here is the way the jig gets made.
To get a 40 degree angel the width of the jig is 5.5".
To get a 45 degree angle the width of the jig is 5 7/8".
To get a 50 degree angle the width of the jig is 6 1/2".
The height is 8 7/8" with a 1/2" notch cut off the back to avoid the v-pocket.
The theory is that the wheel is always being reduced in diameter so always having the v-arm the same distance from the wheel will produce the same grind.
Set the gouge 2" from front of the Varigrind.
I hope this is what you were looking for. If not sorry for the long answer.
Thanks,
Paul

[Michael James]

Kirk DeHeer was at our club a couple of weeks ago and he gave us a template for the Varigrind.
The jig has 3 sizes that will change the angle from 40 to 50 degrees depending on the width.
The only thing about this, for my grinder, is that it shows the center line of the wheel to be 6" above the top of the jig. I have a delta and it is 5" above the top of the v-arm so I'd have to raise mine to use this jig. Oneway suggest that the center of the wheel is 6.25" to 6.5" from the base of the v-arms not the top so that is the way I set mine up.

Any way, here is the way the jig gets made.
To get a 40 degree angel the width of the jig is 5.5".
To get a 45 degree angle the width of the jig is 5 7/8".
To get a 50 degree angle the width of the jig is 6 1/2".
The height is 8 7/8" with a 1/2" notch cut off the back to avoid the v-pocket.
The theory is that the wheel is always being reduced in diameter so always having the v-arm the same distance from the wheel will produce the same grind.
Set the gouge 2" from front of the Varigrind.
I hope this is what you were looking for. If not sorry for the long answer.
Thanks,
Paul
Paul, thank you! That is exactly the answer I was hoping to get. I think I set my jig up according to the instructions (for once I read them). If I get lucky these numbers will work. If not then I wll have to manually get the angle on the face and measure n make my own, or just do the sharpie thing. Thanks for taking the time to answer. I appreciate it.:)
mj