Tape Measure Question

[Raymond Fries]

Ok Ladies and Gents - Help me out here...

...After all the years I have been a woodworker, it is finally time to get an answer to my question:

Why does the hook on the end of a tape measure move instead of being stationary? There must be a good reason as all of them are like this.

[Dan Hintz]

It moves the thickness of the hook. When you measure inside of a length, it measure the same amount as if the hook was on the outside...

EDIT: To make it a bit more clear... this distance from the outside of the hook (when pushed in) to the 1" mark is the same as the distance from the inside of the hook (when pulled out) to the 1" mark... 1".

[Jim Rimmer]

It moves the thickness of the hook. When you measure inside of a length, it measure the same amount as if the hook was on the outside...
+1 That's what I've read many places.

[Raymond Fries]

... to simple and it makes perfect sense.

Thanks

[Peter Quinn]

I have a flexible panel tape that sits flat on sheet goods but does not take inside measurements. Its hook is fixed. 1++ on hook moves to keep inside measurements "Accurate".

[Will Overton]

I have a flexible panel tape that sits flat on sheet goods but does not take inside measurements. Its hook is fixed. 1++ on hook moves to keep inside measurements "Accurate".

And less accurate over time as the hole elongates. One reason to always use the same tape throughout a project. It's often ok for a measurement to be off, as long as it is consistent.

[Raymond Fries]

...even if it meant two seperate measures.

I have a nice 12" hook steel rule that is always my first pick.

Maybe I should look into some thing like what you have Peter as I was not aware of the product.

[Lance Norris]

And less accurate over time as the hole elongates.

Thats why you never, ever, let the tape snap back into the case.

[Michael Weber]

Several years (well many years) ago a newly graduated engineer went to work where I do. He was given a new tape measure along with other things needed to do his job. Assuming something was wrong with the end of his tape, he took it to the model shop to have someone tighten up the little rivet that the hook slides on. The news spread like wildfire:D Even though he is an Engineering Manager now he still has to deal with that and I know when he retires, someone will bring that up at his retirement party.

[Jay Allen]

Maybe I should look into some thing like what you have Peter as I was not aware of the product.

FastCap makes a tape like that. They call it "Flat back". There is no curve to the tape itself to keep it stiff, so it is "limp" like a piece of string. It works well to measure curved surfaces, but it is not ridgid enough to measure inside dimensions and would be a pain on anything that was fairly long.

[John Coloccia]

FastCap makes a tape like that. They call it "Flat back". There is no curve to the tape itself to keep it stiff, so it is "limp" like a piece of string. It works well to measure curved surfaces, but it is not ridgid enough to measure inside dimensions and would be a pain on anything that was fairly long.

I've got one of those. It's SOOOO much better for taking flat measurements than a standard tape. FastCap really nailed it with their tape measures.

[Will Overton]

I had a couple of FastCap tapes. While they were flat, very nice, the markings did not extend to the edge. In order to use them accurately I had to use a square in conjunction with the rule. They went in the trash.

[David Prince]

Tip of the day: If you are working with someone else it is always good to check your tapes against each other. Different brands or semi-worn vs. new can have different measurements. (If your partner is giving you measurements and you are marking them off you can be off because of the differences) And you should always use the same tape from beginning to end of a project to keep your measurements consistent or at least make sure your tapes are consistent.

[John Coloccia]

I had a couple of FastCap tapes. While they were flat, very nice, the markings did not extend to the edge. In order to use them accurately I had to use a square in conjunction with the rule. They went in the trash.

Mine go right to the edge. They just don't go to the edge on both sides of the tape.

[bill mullin]

They don't have to be old or worn to be off, either.
I have a brand new tape that is about 1/32 off. And the hook moves freely.
I usually check them in the store, this one I did not.

[Bill Huber]

I have a Komelon that I got at Lowes and it is a great tape. It is just the oppsite of most tapes in that when you pull it out it stays until you push the button, most tapes you have to push a button of some type to lock the tape.

This is really nice, you pull it out to measure a board or mark you cut points and it stays there until you push the button.

I also have the Fastcap black and it is flat and has the marks just on one edge, the other edge is just white and you can mark on it, nice to use as a story stick.

[Braun Reszler]

I love asking a new apprentice why the hook moves on a tape. Very few know, even some seasoned journeymen don't know. When I tell them they retain that knowledge for life.

[Rob Steffeck]

I have a FastCap tape and functionally its great, but durability is lacking. The first time I accidentally dropped my FastCap, the plastic case popped open. I've dropped many a Stanley and never had that happen. Also, the pencil sharpener in the body broke the first time I used it. I do like the triple rivets on the hook though.

Lance...great point about never letting the tape snap back.

[Dick Thomas]

Tip of the day: If you are working with someone else it is always good to check your tapes against each other.

AAAAAMEN, Dave: My brother & I were installing baseboards & trim in our new home, and about to kill each other over mis-fitting cuts (he measured, I cut). THEN we finally compared tapes: After fine tuning, No more problems!

Now we check first on every joint project!!

It's called 'Lesson Learned - the hard way'

[Eric Wheeler]

Tip of the day: If you are working with someone else it is always good to check your tapes against each other. Different brands or semi-worn vs. new can have different measurements. (If your partner is giving you measurements and you are marking them off you can be off because of the differences) And you should always use the same tape from beginning to end of a project to keep your measurements consistent or at least make sure your tapes are consistent.

This is very, very true. I was working with my dad when I was about 12 and I gave him a number he marked and cut and it didn't fit right, he wanted to rip me a new one he measured himself and saw that I "read wrong" and cussed a bit, etc. I remeasured to see if I could find my mistake, and none was made, I called him back over and showed him my tape making the measurement. We found our tapes were almost an 1/8" off...not quite a full eighth, but close. His was a quite a bit older standard stanley, mine was one of those newer Stanley Power Lock II or something I believe, the one that you pull out and stays out and you have to hold the little lever on the bottom to reel it in...Needless to say we both got brand new tapes the next trip the lumber yard (and I got my first estwing hammer just like his [except 10 oz lighter] boy did I feel like a man then). Come to think of it, here it is nearly 20 years later, and he still hasn't apologized for cussing me out when I wasn't wrong, lol.

[Neil Brooks]

Another nod to David Prince's tip (about checking tapes against each other, on day 1).

In fact, when my ww brother helped me assemble my shop, he told me that one. I rather laughed ... until I figured out just how right he was.

Since this is a tape measure thread, and David's comment speaks to this, I'll remind all, again, that -- for the most part -- consistency is far more important than "accuracy."

While using the same tape, for the entirety of a project, is a great idea, I've also heard (and rather adopted) the idea that ... you only need the tape, early on IN a project. Story sticking, or similar, works quickly and easily, after that.

It's the kind of rule that you are well reminded of ... once you break it. For some reason (tired ... stupid ... ?), I went to the plans to cut the trapezoidal-shaped backer board for a display tower, I'm building, and -- of course -- it didn't fit (too small, of course :rolleyes:).

Almost everything else I'd done ON the project used the "story stick" concept -- taking the next measurement from the last piece that fit well.

Again: consistency is more important, for most of us, most of the time, than "accuracy."

[Will Overton]

it didn't fit (too small, of course :rolleyes:).



Even after you cut it again? :D

[Ken Fitzgerald]

That is an outstanding tip......on verifying any tape measure. My brother helped a friend build a package shed, each using their own tape. The friends new tape was off by about 5/8". They didn't notice until each of them individually built a wall and they tried to join them.

[Eric Wheeler]

That is an outstanding tip......on verifying any tape measure. My brother helped a friend build a package shed, each using their own tape. The friends new tape was off by about 5/8". They didn't notice until each of them individually built a wall and they tried to join them.

5/8"??? I can't imagine that, even if it was a dollar store tape

[Dan Hintz]

5/8"??? I can't imagine that, even if it was a dollar store tape
No kidding! I can imagine being 1/8" off if the hooks were worn and you were measuring over 25' with a cheap Asian-printed tape, but 5/8"?

[cody michael]

in wood shop i was taught to measure from one inch mark, yes it hard on bigger stuff. but normally i had someone helping me

[Mike Henderson]

in wood shop i was taught to measure from one inch mark, yes it hard on bigger stuff. but normally i had someone helping me
That sounds good, but just about everyone who does that will eventually cut a piece 1" too short.

Mike

[David Prince]

in wood shop i was taught to measure from one inch mark, yes it hard on bigger stuff. but normally i had someone helping me

I use the one inch mark a lot when I am looking for a more precise measurement.

[Eric Wheeler]

in wood shop i was taught to measure from one inch mark, yes it hard on bigger stuff. but normally i had someone helping me

That's exactly what I do when I want an extreme precie measurement, but I find that mot often its close enough to use the end. Like mentioned, it is very easy to cut a piece an inch too short by forgetting that you used 1 inch. So a lot of times I will use 4-5 inches, so you can tell something doesn't look right before making the cut...also, I had a tape that I snipped off an at 10 inches, so it was easier to do, just subtract 10 from the tape. It was pretty easy and convenient for things less than around 2 ft, but I used it mostly to set up rips on a table saw

[Rich Engelhardt]

Tip of the day: If you are working with someone else it is always good to check your tapes against each other
Also - when you use your tape to measure for a piece of glass....
take your tape w/you and use it to check before the glass is cut.
DAMHIKT:rolleyes:

[Will Overton]

That sounds good, but just about everyone who does that will eventually cut a piece 1" too short.

Mike

Ya think? :o:o:o

[John Coloccia]

in wood shop i was taught to measure from one inch mark, yes it hard on bigger stuff. but normally i had someone helping me

Most school based classes, like wood shop or physics labs, will tell you to never measure "on edge" and always go from some other mark. That's because their equipment is dropped and abused by thousands of kids and the edges are always chewed up. In my own shop, I measure from the edges, but when I'm somewhere unknown, I'll typically go from the 1" mark because I've no idea what they've done to their equipment.