12" Miter saws

[Donny Lawson]

I was out looking at the 12" Ridgid Miter saws today and was wanting some input on these two types. Ridgid 12" Lazer "sliding" miter or the 12" regular lazer miter saw.Are the "sliding" miter saws worth the extra $$$ ?
Donny

[David Hostetler]

IF you can afford it, a slider is worth the extra $$, IF you need the extra capacity for crosscutting wider stock.

The Ridgid is a really nice saw too...

[Bob Carreiro]

I have used both sliders and non-sliders. I own the Ridgid 12" (non-sliding) MS. It's a nice saw, but have always wished I bought the slider. Of course you can cut wider stock with the slider, but more important (to me, at least), is the saw motor works less, and blades last longer on a slider. With a non-slider, the blade "plunge-cuts" into the face of the board making the blade (and motor) work harder. With a slider, it cuts on the up-cut, in from the (outside) edge. It's much more effortless for the blade & motor and you definately feel it in your "push."

Another thing (while I'm at it), is the degree indents ARE NOT accurate - at least now after 3-4 yrs. Making mitered, flat panel doors last week, I had to re-cut the rails/styles for 6 doors. FORTUNATELY, the miter heel had to be trimmed and not the toe (making them too short)! I recut them on my TS with my miter fence with perfect results.

That's my take. Good luck in your decision.

Bob

[Rich Neighbarger]

Yes, go with the slider. A non slider will be easier to maintain accuracy over time (fewer parts to wear out); however, I do kick myself everytime I need to cut a 12" wide X 8' long board... Which is often enough. One day I'll upgrade, but for now there are other tools with my name on them.

[Jay Allen]

I have a 10" slider (Dewalt) that I use every day in a commercial environment. It cuts over 12" at 90 degrees, which is far more than any 12 non-slding saw can manage and there is less blade deflection too.

Another consideration on the plus side for sliding saws is in the area of "chip out" on laminated or melamine coated parts. You can make a scoring cut across the top and them push through from the bottom, leaving perfect cuts on both sides.

[Will Overton]

Unless you are going to be cutting thick material, a 10" slider might be a good choice. I have a 12" slider and only needed the extra depth of cut a couple of times, but it takes up a lot of room, all the time. The width of the cut isn't that much different between 10" and 12" sliders.

Compare the specs before you decide on any saw.

[Mike Ashton]

I have the Ridgid 12" slider and can tell you they are very nice, but there are some hangups. The first 2 I picked up had bad castings for the table (not even close to level) and none of the bevel adjustments were accurate. After picking up a second one and finding the same problems after getting it home, I returned that one and opened the last one in the parking lot in the back of my truck. That one was a keeper. I got mine 3 years ago though, so maybe they have fixed the casting problems.

As for 12" vs 10", the 10" that's a simple matter of preference. Some say 10" is more accurate due to less blade flex, others need the extra depth for thicker stock. I've never had a problem with accuracy, but I use a full kerf blade in mine.

One really nice feature on the Ridgid slider (others may have this as well) is the support under what you are cutting. The two plastic pieces are adjusted to meet each other and once the first cut is made through them, they act as a zero clearance insert. This may be old news to others, but when I showed a buddy he hadn't heard of it on other models. In either case, the bottom of the piece being cut has drastically reduced tearout.

[Steve Griffin]

As I've said many of the weekly "which miter saw" threads, in a shop environment I think the single most important thing is 12" blades. 10" just doesn't have the thickness capacity that you need unless you just do tiny projects.

As far as whether or not to slide, I'm firmly in the non-slider camp. Save yourself 3-400 bucks and apply it to a sliding table saw with 49" capacity.

-Steve

[Donny Lawson]

The reason I asked to start with was that my 1st Ridgid 12" MS burnt and I have a recondition store that sells Ridgid tools and I check it out all the time. At HD the 12" miter is 369.00 and the Recon store it's 199.00. The 12" slider was 569.00 @ HD and at the Recon store it's 299.00 with a 1yr warranty. They do have great prices but I do wonder about buying "Recondition" products. Opinions???
Donny

[Van Huskey]

my 1st Ridgid 12" MS burnt

That should answer your question. I personally don't buy recon tools BUT a lot of people here have really good luck with them. However, with the Rigid remember with the full price version you get the lifetime service agreement. It is a lot more money but you get a lot of peace of mind as well.

[Dave Lehnert]

As I've said many of the weekly "which miter saw" threads, in a shop environment I think the single most important thing is 12" blades. 10" just doesn't have the thickness capacity that you need unless you just do tiny projects.

As far as whether or not to slide, I'm firmly in the non-slider camp. Save yourself 3-400 bucks and apply it to a sliding table saw with 49" capacity.

-Steve

I was looking at Miter saws at Lowe's and noticed the 10" Dewalt had the same cutting cap as the 12" Bosch.
May run into problems with cutting wide crown molding. Guess it all depends what one is going to do with the saw. I have been looking at sliders and decided on a 10". 12" blades are more expensive and the bigger the blade the more vibration you may have.

If you decide to go with the 12" Rigid I would go with the recon in the outlet stores. Every recon I have purchased has been perfect.

[Jay Allen]

As for 12" vs 10", the 10" that's a simple matter of preference. Some say 10" is more accurate due to less blade flex, others need the extra depth for thicker stock. I've never had a problem with accuracy, but I use a full kerf blade in mine.

One really nice feature on the Ridgid slider (others may have this as well) is the support under what you are cutting. The two plastic pieces are adjusted to meet each other and once the first cut is made through them, they act as a zero clearance insert. This may be old news to others, but when I showed a buddy he hadn't heard of it on other models. In either case, the bottom of the piece being cut has drastically reduced tearout.

Thicker stock? It will cut a 4x4, how much more could you really need?

The point of the "adjustable" plastic inserts is because of the bevel capability of the saw. If you push them together and leave them that way, the first time you make a bevel cut, you cut into one side. Then they are useless as "zero clearence". If you really need the zero clearence for a good cut, place a wider piece of plywood/MDF/particle board under the cut. If you don't cut through it, it works for quite a while. When it loses effectiveness, just move the piece over a little and make a new kerf.

[Curt Harms]

I don't know prices on miter saws, but here's something to consider:
http://www.reconditionedsales.com/Miter_Saws___c375.aspx

I believe Hitach & Makita are well thought of for their miter saws.

[Steve Griffin]

Thicker stock? It will cut a 4x4, how much more could you really need?

The point of the "adjustable" plastic inserts is because of the bevel capability of the saw. If you push them together and leave them that way, the first time you make a bevel cut, you cut into one side. Then they are useless as "zero clearence". If you really need the zero clearence for a good cut, place a wider piece of plywood/MDF/particle board under the cut. If you don't cut through it, it works for quite a while. When it loses effectiveness, just move the piece over a little and make a new kerf.

Can't think of the last dining table or headboard which I built which had legs smaller than 4x4.

Also, if it's not a slider, then the length capacity alone is the strongest argument for 12".

The only reason I can think of a 12" slider being a high priority in a shop is if you don't have a table saw. I suppose it would be nice to have if you have extra money, (and extra shop space for the those long sliding rails behind the saw). Set up a nice sled for the T-saw, or better yet a sliding table and you will completely not care if your miter saw can cut an extra couple inches.

-Steve

[John Carlo]

I was really impressed with one of the new offerings. I won't name the brand because this may have been single flawed unit. The 90 degree table to fence alignment was several degrees off. Put a good square on the fence to table alignment. You cannot adjust what has been machined or cast inaccurately. Also see if a little exertion of pressure side to side will rack the blade out of alignment. Even the best saws have some play but a skilled operator will only push down during a cut.