Value of Delta 890 Bandsaw?

[David McCracken]

Hi,

I have been lurking here for a while, but now I need some help.

I have the opportunity to purchase a Delta 890 Bandsaw locally, but want to make sure I am paying a fair price.

The machine in question was built in June of 1946, has a 1/3 hp single phase GE motor, and shows some rust on the Upper Wheel Cover door. Assuming that the alignment is okay and the saw runs okay, what would the value of this be?

Some other notes:
There is no Rip Fence or Re-saw fence with the saw, though the rails for one are evident on the sides of the table.
It hasn't been used for at least 2 years.
It was acquired by the current seller from an estate so there is no information on the saw's history.

What would some of the people here who know these saws pay for one like this?

Thank you for any and all replies.
Dave

[Myk Rian]

I'm not going to give you a fair price because the saw is worth what you want to pay to own it. It's up to you to research it.
If you were to state what the asking price is, you might be told to get it, or walk.
A little rust isn't a deal breaker. Here's a before and after on my '66 saw.
Make note of the upper wheel cover.

http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad222/MykRian/Rockwell-Delta%2028-380/0625001032.jpg
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad222/MykRian/Rockwell-Delta%2028-380/Img_0396.jpg

[David McCracken]

I realize that value is really what someone is willing to pay for an item. That given, my purpose was to get an idea of what this should go for. I've seen ranges of $65 - $250 depending on condition and completeness. The seller is asking $250 which seems the top of the range.

Given that there is no fence, that seems to me to be something that should come off the price, but I am unsure how much? His take will be that he set that price knowing that.

If you consider $250, then whatever a fence will cost plus any maintenance that needs to be done to replace worn parts (probably likely considering the age) that would seem to be getting up there in price. I priced a Kreg fence for example, and we are talking over $100 for that alone. I don't know a current Delta fence would fit it, or I would price that.

I guess what I am looking for is some idea of if this is ballpark or priced high. My gut says I should try to get a concession on the fence issue and the fact that he mis-represented the age. That being said, one might consider a 60 year old Delta to be a better saw than a 30 year-old Delta.

Since I haven't purchased a used tool before, I was seeking some guidance in whether this could be justified to be at the top of what I saw as a range for these saws. Maybe it's not so simple.

By the way. It looks like you did a nice job with yours.

[Matt Meiser]

Another well known site doesn't allow value talk at all because its so subjective. We have no idea what kind of condition the saw is in. Your idea of rust might not be my idea of rust. I've seen "like new" stuff listed on craigslist that had scaly orange cast iron surfaces. Others have listed "old junk" that is a pristine old machine. There's just no way you can describe the machine to us without photos. Proper alignment wouldn't figure into pricing strategy for me at all, and neither would that it runs good since it could run bad because of a $10 belt. Condition and completeness are what I'd consider, and when I say condition, I'm thinking more along the lines of mechanical wear than pretty paint. Does it have any accessories? For example if it has the optional OEM light, that alone can fetch $80. Not to mention geographic pricing differences.

Bottom line, you already think its priced high so you need to decide what you are willing to pay.

BTW, It probably isn't missing a fence--it probably never had one. A fence hasn't been a standard item until very recently. And you can make a perfectly serviceable fence from scrap plywood as demonstrated at my club's meeting last week.

[David McCracken]

Thank you for the information.

I only say it is missing a fence because the rails are attached to the table. If it never had one, I wouldn't think the rails for the fence would be there.

There is no light either. It looks to me like a bare-bones saw. You get the saw and that's it.

I don't mind paying the $250 if that is what it is worth and I guess the difference between $200 and $250 is very subjective.

That is a fine idea about building a fence with wood too. If I could do that then I could save my money for parts it might need. What was demonstrated at you club? Scrap Ply held down by clamps or something else? I'd be interested in more information on that.

Thanks again.

[Willard Foster]

My concern would be the 1/3 HP motor, seems pretty small.

I would shop for a 3/4 HP motor to replace the 1/3.

If you can find a $100.00 motor, I wouldn't pay more than $150.00 for the saw.

I have a 20 year old 14 inch Delta with a 1/2 HP motor. I would take $250 in a heartbeat. (No, it's not for sale until I buy a bigger saw)

Bill

[David McCracken]

1/3 hp seems to be the motor that the saw would have come with new, wouldn't it? In looking at the manual, it says "for most work around the small shop or home workshop, a good 1/3-H.P. motor will be found to furnish ample power for this machine".

That being said, I know new machines come with up to 1.5 H.P. motors. What would the limitation be with the lower H.P. motor? Would it not cut hardwoods well, or is it simply an issue of able to cut average sized stock, but no re-sawing and definitely no logs. (I wasn't thinking it would handle logs anyway).

I just looked online and 1 H.P. motors can run a few hundred bucks. By the time I buy this saw and a new motor I'd be able to buy a new Grizzley. So, I am thinking that if the motor upgrade is essential to my purpose, then I'd better forget going this route. My purpose was to save some money by getting a used machine, and I know old machines are generally going to have better castings than newer ones.

Dave

[Don Jarvie]

Unless it;s broken or has missing parts then 250 is a great price.

If the motor is original it is even a better deal.

Go to OWWM.com and org and do a search. You'll find a ton of info because Delta BS's are very popular.

[Myk Rian]

To add to my previous post, my saw came with the rails but no fence. Just like the one you are looking at.
I put a WTB on OWWM and got a fence with 24" rails for $100. Mind you the fence is older than the saw, but I wanted to keep this saw as old iron. The reason for the restoration.

This saw replaced a 2002 USA made model that I liked very much, and sold for $450. Being a metal-wood model I value this older saw at $600 minimum.

For $250 the saw you are looking at could be a good price. It's a collectors item, and a darned good one at that.
You could also spend the $250 on a new-in-the-box saw, but it won't be a USA made one. It all depends on what you want.

[Bob Aquino]

I've got a whole shop full of old arn and I like these old machines. The delta's are nice saws, but I don't think I would spend 250 on a saw that wasn't mostly plug and play and I would doubt this one is. It may have the cast iron base which would certainly add to the value, but my impression is it will probably take a good bit of work to be put in shape. With a standard open base and in average condtion, maybe 1 to 150 max. And count on bearings for the wheels as well as the motor. Probably new tires too. If you aren't into that kind of work, then pass on it.

[Matt Meiser]

Well, there you have it--its a great, terrible deal. :D



I only say it is missing a fence because the rails are attached to the table. If it never had one, I wouldn't think the rails for the fence would be there.

That is a fine idea about building a fence with wood too. If I could do that then I could save my money for parts it might need. What was demonstrated at you club? Scrap Ply held down by clamps or something else? I'd be interested in more information on that.

With the rails it must have had one at one time. The one I saw was incredibly simple. He had two faces, one fairly short, one fairly tall at right angles to each other. A triangular brace kept them at 90. Everything was pocket-screwed together. A couple clamps held it to the table wherever he needed it. I actually think it was functionally a better fence than my Fasttrack fence which is the predecessor to the Kreg fence.

[David McCracken]

Don: Thanks, I've been looking at OWWM. Lot's of good info.

Myk: Metal and Wood! That is a good one. This one is Wood only. I wouldn't mind trying a restoration, but that'll have to wait for more money. The goal now is to get to a well-working machine at the lowest price-point.

Bob: I don't mind doing that kind of work. I am going to go back over, now that I know more about the things to look at and see what the tires, wheel alignment, guide rollers all look like. My impression is that none of the items are that expensive if I do the work myself, except maybe for alignment. Am I incorrect in that assumption?

Matt: Thanks for the info on the fence. I liked your "great-terrible deal" That may sum the whole thing up in a nutshell!

Thank you all for your responses, I'll keep you posted on what happens.

[Bruce Page]

David, I had a 1982 version of the same saw that had a ½ hp motor. It would make curvy cuts in ¾ - 1” stock all day long. If I wanted to re-saw any hardwood thicker than 5” I had to use extreme patience. All in all, it was a great band saw.

[David McCracken]

file:///C:/Users/Dave/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot.pngThese are pictures from the advertisement. I should have posted before probably so people could get a visual idea, though I don't see that they show much detail.

[Myk Rian]

It has the base and pulley cover. All other parts appear to be there.
It is surely worthy of restoration. Offer $200 and see what happens.

It doesn't have to be sparkling to be operational. If it runs and cuts wood without the blade coming off, it is a worthy machine.

Looks like there is a Delta DP220 drill press in the background. Another fine piece of equipment. Where are you located?

[David McCracken]

Myk,

I am in New Jersey. I would have gone for the drill press too, but budgetary considerations triumphed.

Dave

[Pete Bradley]

Bottom line - $250 is likely twice as much as it's worth.

As with any old machines, after machine make/type, restoration cost is the primary determiner of value. Figure out what you want to spend on the saw all done. Assess your tools and skills. Now look at the machine:


check for cracks, breaks, and missing parts. Table trunnions frequently get broken during moves, machines get tipped over, and parts get lost. On the good side almost any part for this saw is available for a price.
Are the guides all present and unbroken?
Assume this machine needs new bearings throughout. I believe this one needs old school 87xxx sizes, figure $15 each from a bearing supplier.
It needs a new belt.
The motor wants bearings too unless it's a recent replacement. Some of the GE industrial 1/3HP motors are quite decent. If it's an old washing machine motor, knock some bucks off your offer.
New wiring? Switch? Plug? Throat plate? Table pin? Tires? Guide blocks?
Paint?

Add all this up, throw in another $50 for the stuff you didn't find while assessing the machine, subtract this from your "finished" price, and you'll be ready to make a sensible offer. Generally though $125's in the ballpark for a "ready to restore" 14" Delta. It will be a great machine done though.

Pete

[richard poitras]

Just low ball it and see what he says....all he can say is no and come back with a price.

[george wilson]

I've had the same saw since 1965. Paid $125.00 for it at that time,with the riser block. No fence or rails. They hardly ever came with a light. It was extra. I put an old sewing machine light on mine,and got a Delta fence and miter gauge for it,and a heavy duty old G.E. motor,3/4 HP,and about 10" in diameter.

The old saw will be better than anything you can get new because it has heavier castings in the frame. The wheels are most likely rounder and better balanced than the new clones,because they built better machines back then.

the picture is miserably small,but if it isn't missing parts from the blade guides,other than the 1/2" square steel guide blocks,and the ball bearings,I'd go for it.

Even if you have to put on new tires,it will be a good machine.

You can get a Kreg or other fence for it,or make a wooden one. The original Delta fences are no great shakes,and an original one will cost a fortune anyway. Any standard 3/4" slot miter gauge will fit it fine.

[David McCracken]

Thank you all for your advice. I have looked through all the messages and appreciate the viewpoints presented.

I took another look since I've done some research on what to look for. This is the results:

Everything seems to be there. There is no indication that the blade has tracked anywhere but the center on the upper and lower wheel. Guide blocks looked like they were in place and solid. They didn't appear to be all that old either. The table moved very easily once the trunions were loosened. Watching the action on the trunions under the table, they seemed to go through the full range without a hitch. The tires also didn't appear to be bad, though a more practiced eye might see something I didn't.

Overall, the saw looks like the prior owner maintained it pretty well. The current owner hasn't used it a lot, so all in all, it seems to be in pretty good shape.

Based on this, I am thinking I am going to go for it. He had limited time this evening, so I didn't get into the negotiation. Does this affect anyone's advice here?

Dave

[mark kosse]

If it looks good and sounds good it's a fair price. They seem to go for more than that around here. It looks to only need some paint to make it look better. The belt cover is worth 60.00.

[David McCracken]

Mark,

It looks good, but I only heard sounds long enough for the blade to just start moving before it blew the circuit. The seller had a 110 plug on a 220 motor. He doesn't have the 220 line to plug it into. I have 220, but the saw would need to get here before I could run it.

This is the riskiest part of the deal, imho. He has been talking about borrowing a friend's trailer to transport it. If that plays out, then he can be here when I try it and if it doesn't run good, I push for price concession right there.

Dave

[Kent A Bathurst]

.........There is no light either.........

Heh-heh-heh. No light? search for "retirement light and see what they go for in "needs work" condition.

They got the name "retirement light" because if you'd bought a bunch some years back, and sold them now, you could [satire] fund your retirement.

Rotsa Ruck on finding one on that age BS, in that price range, with an original light.

[george wilson]

It sounds like the Delta is all there. I advise you to get it. It will run smoother than new saws because the wheels are round and balanced,as I said,and the frame castings are thicker.

You can get a better blade tension spring if you wish. I've never changed mine,but I don't use wide blades.

[David McCracken]

I'll post pics when I get it here!

[David McCracken]

First of all, I want to thank each and every one of you who have participated in this thread. It has been educational to me and certainly helped me in my decision to purchase the saw.

Now I have some more questions.

I got the saw today :D, and tonight I got the chance to try running it some. When I first started it up, the blade came off! This of course was my own fault however, as I knew the last time I looked at it, I was turning the adjustment knobs to check out the movement, which of course put the saw out of alignment, and left the blade without the needed tension.

So I got a crash course in putting the blade on the saw. Got that all done, and started it up and it made a racket! It seemed the belt from the motor pully, was hitting the cover. That stopped however after I turned it off and then started it again. I did that several more times and it never re-occurred. This struck me as strange. Any ideas???

The guy I bought it from, after it had blown his circuit breaker when he plugged it into an extension cord and tried to run it, told me it was 230V and that he had the wrong plug on it. Turns out, I plugged it into a 115V outlet and it runs fine!

Now, I know that the motor is 115/230, and that if wired for 230V would draw a lot less amps and run cooler. Given the advantages of that, does anyone know how to convert a 1946 GE 1/3 HP Motor to run on 230V?

Also, the thing shakes, rattles and rolls! Well, not so bad but a definite tremor is felt in the table. I know that balancing the wheels might help this, but what else might help?

I will post pictures as soon as I get the chance. Hopefully tomorrow, but in the meantime, I appreciate any and all feedback.

Thank you very much!

Dave

[george wilson]

I've never run my old Delta 3/4 h.p. motor on 220. I wouldn't worry about it. Been running fine since 1964 on 110,and the old motor is probably from the 40's or 50's.

[Matt Meiser]

Congratulations and welcome to the world of old machinery. Its a disease BTW, and there's no cure. :)

You might pick up Mark Duginske's band saw book which is frequently recommended here.

I wouldn't bother rewiring the motor either.

[David McCracken]

Congratulations and welcome to the world of old machinery. Its a disease BTW, and there's no cure. :)

You might pick up Mark Duginske's band saw book which is frequently recommended here.

I wouldn't bother rewiring the motor either.


HA!!! That it's a disease I don't doubt.

It is actually my second old machine. The first is my grandfather's Craftsman / King-Seeley Jigsaw. That one isn't as old as this however. I thing the Jigsaw is early 50's.

I will check out the book. Thanks.

Dave