Need some Powermatic Table Saw advice

[Rusty Eads]

A little background info first:

I currently have a Delta TS350 contractor table saw with a 1 hp direct drive motor. It has the solid cast iron top, along with the wings. It has 27" rip capacity and does a pretty good job for what I have done so far. I have tripped the thermal protection several times cutting thicker hardwoods. I have been using cheap $20 blades so I know it could use some improvement there. That being said, that is the only problems I have had with it and it is a very sturdy saw for only being a contractor saw (the 22" x 38" solid cast iron top helps).

I came across a 1960's powermatic 65 cabinet saw with a 1.5 hp 3 phase motor, original jet lock fence, no miter gauge, and an overarm blade guide. Asking price is $350 and by the pictures it looks to be in decent shape (though I know pictures don't tell the whole story). The asking price blows my whole budget and since I currently don't have a phase converter or 3 phase power I would not be able to run the saw as is. I do have a 2 hp motor off of another saw that I could probably fit underneath to allow me to use it for the time being.

Now for the real questions:

Should I pull the trigger and get the last saw I would probably ever need? I keep a very close eye on CL and saws like this at this price do not come around that often. Should I just keep with my Delta since I really haven't had that much problems with it? I do quite a bit of woodworking, for friends, families and myself and I am worried that I will be in the middle of a project and the saw will give out and since it has the direct drive motor I can't just slap any motor in there. I have drooled over cabinet saws and unisaws and have never had the opportunity to own one (5 kids eat up any expendable income, and everyone knows this hobby hungers for it :o).

The powermatic is the kind of saw straight out of my dreams so my judgement may be a bit clouded and I am hoping that the advice of those more knowledgeable then myself will help to guide me down the right path.

I have enclosed a picture of the saw I am thinking about. Thanks for listening and for any advice.

[Josiah Bartlett]

That's a deal that won't come up every day. Powermatic saws are fairly rare compared to old Unisaws and command a higher premium. I would jump on that.

For a 1.5HP motor, I would just add a TECO or similar VFD instead of a rotary phase converter. Then you get soft start and variable speed and braking. An FM50 rated at 2hp runs about $144 online.

I went from basically the same contractor saw as you to a unisaw. It made using the saw so much more of a pleasure. I understand about the budget, but you can probably sell your saw and make back some of the cost, and older saws like this aren't going to get any cheaper anytime soon. Eventually you will probably want to upgrade the fence, but things like miter gauges are standard and can be scrounged up easily.

[Kirk Poore]

Rusty:

I have a 1959 PM 65. Mine was in much worse shape than yours--broken castings that had been repaired, no guard (internal guard casting was broken off), no motor. I've rebuilt mine and it now works great.

The motor needed is a 56C frame, C meaning it's a face mounted motor. If your 2 hp motor isn't that frame size (or as 145TC), it isn't going to fit and there's no easy way to rig another motor in there. For a 145TC you'll need another motor pulley. Josiah's suggestion of a VFD is a good one for you to consider, if you can swing the money. Maybe you can get a slightly lower offer accepted to make up part of the difference.

The bearings are almost 50 years old. You may need to change them in the near future. They aren't that expensive, and are easy to change. OWWM.com has a manual that describes the procedure.

I use the cast iron fence you have. It locks front and back, and is very ridgid. Despite the damage my saw had, the fence was in perfect shape except the fine adjust knob was stripped.

Make sure you check the tilt and height adjustment over the full range to make sure there are no breaks in the gears. Also make sure the lock knobs are there--sometimes they wander off, though I don't know why.

Just realize that, even if the saw runs right now, it would be better off with a rehab. I think, however, it has great potential and in my experience will be all the saw you need until you need something bigger than 10".

Kirk