Gloat?

[john brenton]

I've never gotten into the 3 figure gloat realm before. I paid $140 for a lot of tools that I found in the local paper (my b-day is coming up, I had the excuse). I definitely got a sweet deal, but it's not like getting an Ulmia bench for $200. Damn if that didn't ruin gloats for the rest of us.

Of the lot, the primo pieces are the Stanley #112 with three blades, the Stanly #4, and the Disston #12 (thanks for correcting me Merv). I've always wanted an old Disston with a nib (why I don't know) and I needed a heavier rip saw anyways. I don't know who the maker of the squares was as there is no marking on any of them except the largest one (Disston) which is unlike the other squares. There are some some sweet reamers too, which I wanted for some chairs and rebate planes I've been meaning to make.

I was going to sell the #4 but now I don't know...it's a pretty sweet user. I already broke the handle AND the rod that holds the handle on the #112.:eek: Yeah...I was really thrilled about that. The handle already had a crack all the way through so I really can't take credit for that. The rod though, snapped right off in my hand with very little pressure. Bummer.

I also forgot to get the yankee drill which was a bummer. I had it in my hand at the guy's house, set it down for a second, and forgot to put it back in the box. He lives far enough away that it would probably be cheaper just to buy one online. The 3 yankee drivers though are in great condition.

I spent a good 2 hours last night cleaning everything up with paste wax and a scraper, and everything came out sweet. The saw cleaned right up, and the planes are in excellent condition.

What I want to know is what I can do with all these auger bits. Every time I go and pick up a lot of tools I get stuck with all of these mismatched bits. I thought maybe "windchimes", but they don't vibrate well.

[Andrew Gibson]

Looks like a gloat to me! I keep waiting for the day I find a deal down here in tampa... seems like no one brought their tools down here when they retired.

[Marv Werner]

Hi John,

Nice bunch of gloat stuff.

The saw in your third picture is a Disston No.12 in what appears to be in very good condition. Better than a No.7. Disston's No.12 was one of their top of the line models. Most of them have more taper to the blade allowing less set in the teeth that produce an easy sawing smooth cut. The teeth on your saw don't look big enough to be rip teeth. Might be filed crosscut. There should be a number stamped in the blade just below the handle that will indicate the number of points per inch. You are probably already aware of this, but that number doesn't mean "teeth per inch". Teeth per inch will always be one less than the points per inch count, or PPI.

Marv

[john brenton]

Thanks Marv,

I knew I'd get the model # wrong! For some strange reason the teeth look small in the pic, but they aren't. I guess it's just the relativity of the teeth compared to the size of the saw. I didn't measure or look for a number but believe it's 5 or 4 tpi.

[David Weaver]

How long is it? Looks like it has a nice full plate, and if it's a big boy rip saw, that might explain why the teeth look smaller. They certainly appear to have a lot more set than a 12 needs.

Of all of my old saws, the 12s I have are the only ones I've given "real money" to get. I would give more "real money" if I found more with pit-free straight plates - they are wonderful saws to use.

[Bill Houghton]

About the bits: if you can assemble a "set," you might be able to get a couple of dollars selling them to people who live where tools aren't freely available.

Or you could donate them to your local Habitat for Humanity ReStore building supplies thrift store; or the next rummage sale for a cause you support; or, if there's a local building for kids program in your schools, to them.

[Steven Fox]

Or you could donate all those auger bits to me. They will get used and I would think of you kindly each time I used one.

[john brenton]

Haha, I'll think about it!

Or you could donate all those auger bits to me. They will get used and I would think of you kindly each time I used one.

To George:
I knew there were tapered blades, but I didn't know that this model was supposed to have one. I'll have to put my caliper on it and see what's doing if I can't see it by eye. I may send it away to badaxe and have them professionally set and sharpen it to make sure it gets done right.

It is definitely a big hunk of saw in great condition. It cleaned up extremely well with the old scrape and wax. It was all surface rust and it came up easily. Of course I didn't end up with a clean shiny saw plate, but there is no pitting. It's enough of a specimen that I'll probably post another pic with dimensions later on today. Its the kind of saw that makes me think it's time to finally build my till. I think I'll copy yours!

[john brenton]

Florida is supposed to have the best flea markets for tools around. I'm not sure what part of Florida, but an older guy (80+) who basically has a Stanley tool museum in his house here in Savannah goes there all the time.


Looks like a gloat to me! I keep waiting for the day I find a deal down here in tampa... seems like no one brought their tools down here when they retired.

[Don C Peterson]

The D12 is my favorite. They have nice big, well shaped handles, and the plate is thinner than the D8 and D7 models. This means that it cuts faster, but you have to practice good technique or you can kink the plate. I think the D12 was marketed more toward professional artisans while the D8 and D7 were more consumer oriented. That is not to say that the 8's and 7's aren't fine saws, but the 12's do have an entirely different feel about them, and it looks like you picked up a nice one.

I just recently relocated from the Kansas City area to Jax, Fl, and I've noticed lots of flea markets and antique shops here. There's a big flea-market just north of St. Augustine right off I-95 that I'm going to have to check out soon.

[David Weaver]

This is just a summary of what I've seen, but the D8 was marketed toward professionals, and I think the #12 became a bit of a gentleman's saw because of the level of polish and taper and the price that goes along with that.

The D style saws came out of henry disston's want to create a saw that was a different pattern from the traditional straight-back english pattern saws, and there are various stories about how he drew the design on a shop floor or whatever. There is an interesting pattern of discussion about what disston marketing did to describe the reason for the skew back on the saws. IIRC, they first marketed it as an improvement in terms of strength over the english pattern saws (figure out how you remove metal but make it stronger :confused:), and I think some of their literature later may have stated that you could opt for the english pattern saws with more weight and strength (exactly the opposite of their first claim).

The big difference between a #7 or #12 and the D series the orientation of the tote and how it affects your ability drive the saw downard or forward. With a D series saw, you can apply a lot more downforce. With the english pattern saws, because of the orientation and location of the tote (off the back of the saw), you don't have the ability to put down pressure on the cut as much.

The consumer saws were keystone saws, but I have no clue if they were ever marketed toward professionals as inexpensive saws, though. i know my dad had two junk disston saws that were definitely consumer saws. I don't know if he still has them, but they were keystone saws at best, and probably not the ones with taper.

[john brenton]

What I don't understand is what made them change that orientation. I can't use a rip saw that doesn't have a high set handle. Well, of course I "can", but it's frustrating and a strain on the wrist



The big difference between a #7 or #12 and the D series the orientation of the tote and how it affects your ability drive the saw downard or forward. With a D series saw, you can apply a lot more downforce. With the english pattern saws, because of the orientation and location of the tote (off the back of the saw), you don't have the ability to put down pressure on the cut as much.