DYI solid phenolic router table (questions)

[Wes D. Smith]

Greetings.

I have come across some locally available scrap phenolic sheet that may or may not be suitable for a router table. The sheet is 1.25" X 3' X 4' and it is grade G3 material (Mil-I-24768/18 glass cloth/phenolic).

As I have never owned a router table much less built one, I was wondering if anybody could comment on this particular grade of phenolic.

This material is quite a bit thicker than the phenolic tables I've seen for sale, but is thicker better? And if not, why?

G3 grade described by one source: "Specified for good physical and electrical properties under dry conditions. Often used to replace asbestos in static applications. Certifies to NEMA G-3 per MIL-I-24768/18 GPG." This description doesn't mention anything about "dimensional stability" like it does some of the other phenolic grades. Is this omission significant or does it really matter when the table is 1.25" thick?

And if this material is deemed to be suitable, would there be any advantage to leaving the table a full 3' X 4' or would it be better to have one smaller 2' X 3' table with a blank for future projects?

And I know that it would be less trouble and probably cheaper to buy a phenolic router table, but I like taking the DYI approach. This table will be using a PC 7518 motor and I'm looking at purchasing a Woodpecker PRL-V2 router lift.

Thanks in advance for your comments & discussion. 2nd post on the SMC forums, so please be gentle...

[pat warner]

Good material but flatness spec. is miserable.
Morover, if it is not flat, at that thickness, its modulus (stiffness) is so high you can't flatten it without heroics. A first class abrasive planer can bring it into a uniform thickness and maybe flatten it too.
Would interrogate the slab before committing to a router table surface.

[Chris Tsutsui]

I say thicker the better, heavier the better. Because there will be less vibrations from that PC7518.

I would use that scrap phenolic, just have a big sheet if you have room in your shop.

As long as the table is not warped to throw off your routing, I don't think the top HAS to be as flat as a machinist granite slab... etc.

Just make sure to properly support the phenolic so it doesn't have a chance to sag anywhere. AFterall, the router is heavy and will transfer heat as well to the top.