Finishing Question

[Bill Bulloch]

I finished a bowl with Boiled Linseed Oil, now I am wondering if I can apply Clear Gloss Poly on top of that? If so, how long should I wait before doing it?

Or do you think I would be better off just buffing with the Beall System?

It's a small, simple walnut bowl that really turned out well, no tool or sanding marks, even thickness all around with super great grain orientation. Now I want a finish that will bring it out even more. Wish I hadn't put the BLO on it, then I could just apply multiple coats of Poly to achieve the effect I want.

[Scott Hackler]

Bill, I use Blo on almost everything prior to poly or lacquer (if I want shine). For Poly i generally like to leave it over night and then hit it with some 000 steel wool before the Poly. I have since moved to Lacquer because of its ability to melt into each layer and be dry enough for another layer in 10-15 minutes. On my recent projects I applied the Blo and wiped it dry with a paper towel, waited about 15 minutes and applied the lacquer. I havent had any adverse effects of doing this and is shure brings out the grain. Only problem is the yellowing effect of the Blo. On very white woods I will skip the Blo and go right to the lacquer. Hope this helps.

[John Keeton]

Bill, that is exactly my finishing method for flat work, and for some of the turnings I have done. On lacquer, I have also done like Scott, but honestly, I think the safest route is to put on a seal coat of dewaxed shellac. I have not had any difficulties, and apparently neither has Scott, but.....

Also, at the suggestion of David Woodruff, I got some Behlen's vinyl sealer and just used some of it as a sealer prior to the lacquer. It seemed to do very well as a base, should you want to use lacquer at some point.

[Michael E. Thompson]

Bill,

I'm with Scott & John. BLO really make the grain pop and almost always use it on my turnings. I will usually put it on while on the lathe and try to "bake it" to accelerate the curing. I've not had any adverse effects of doing this. I will then apply shellac immediately afterwards using the same "bake in" method. (I use shellac over lacquer because of the fumes, I have a basement shop and the smell really upsets SWMBO) It really puts a nice shine on the piece. If I want to dull it down a bit, I will use steelwool and BLO to rub it out. Gives it a silky smooth finish. Or I will rub it out with dry steelwool and buff, usually a week later just to make sure everything is cured. HTH.

Mike

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I use BLO on all my turnings except some of the "waxier" exotics that won't absorb it anyway. I almost always follow that with a sealcoat of dewaxed shellac and then the finish of choice.

[Frank Van Atta]

Ditto everyone on the dewaxed shellac. You can use shellac over or under any finish, so it makes a good transition between different finishes.

[Allen Neighbors]

Don't want to hijack this thread, but maybe Bill is curious as I am. How do you purchase de-waxed shellac, and what makes it de-waxed over other shellacs?
I guess you can tell that I've never used any type of shellac in my lifetime... I know absolutely nothing about it.

[Bob Wolfe]

So if a product is labeled as shellac, that is, not unwaxed or waxed and there is no mention of wax on the can, specifically Zinser Bullseye, is that waxed or unwaxed shellac? I mixed some with DNA and boiled linseed oil and I did not quite get the results I'd expected and thought I would. When I polish off with the lathe up to speed, sometimes it gets sticky, almost gummy. Any advice out there.

[Michael E. Thompson]

You can purchase dewaxed flakes online and soak them in DNA. Or pick up a can of Zinsser Seal Coat, from almost anywhere. IIRC that is dewaxed. Shelf life is a bit longer than using the flakes.

[Frank Van Atta]

Don't want to hijack this thread, but maybe Bill is curious as I am. How do you purchase de-waxed shellac, and what makes it de-waxed over other shellacs?
I guess you can tell that I've never used any type of shellac in my lifetime... I know absolutely nothing about it.

Zinnser dewaxed shellac is called Seal Coat. Available in many hardware and paint stores. Make sure you check the manufacture date on the can - it has a 3 year shelf life.

[Mike Peace]

I have limited expertise on shellac but I can say that the shellac friction finishes like Hut and Mylands do contain wax. Easily visible before you shake it prior to use as it separates.

[David E Keller]

I use shellac between different finishes. I get the flakes from shellac.net IIRC.
The flakes are clearly labeled if they are dewaxed.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I get the extra blonde shellac flakes. I soak them for several days till they are dissolved in DNA. I usually use 1 lb cut for sealing and 2 lb cut for a finish. I use BLO under poly or lacquer but wait at least 72 hrs before applying.

[Michael James]

So if a product is labeled as shellac, that is, not unwaxed or waxed and there is no mention of wax on the can, specifically Zinser Bullseye, is that waxed or unwaxed shellac? I mixed some with DNA and boiled linseed oil and I did not quite get the results I'd expected and thought I would. When I polish off with the lathe up to speed, sometimes it gets sticky, almost gummy. Any advice out there.

Bob, the DNA will "cut" or thn the shelllac. I would not add the BLO to that mix. I think that is your problem. I love the smell of shellac and use it even when not called for!:D
If your shellac has wax, all the DNA in the world will not make it comatible to another or different top finish.