ligt surface rust removal

[Zahid Naqvi]

So we sold our house and had to move temporarily in an apt while we looked for a new one. Among other things the hand tools also went into storage. Now that we are in a house and I have started unpacking the tools I see spots of rust all over the place. It is not as bad to require an acid bath or something that drastic, but I do know steel wool and mineral spirits will do quiet well. Just asking to see if there are any better options for removing light surface rust.

[Gary Hodgin]

For light removal, I've used a scotch-brite pad and mineral sprites and/or sandflex hand blocks. There are coarse, medium, and fine blocks and you may not need them all. For more serious, but not really bad, rust I use Boeshield Rust remover. Don't allow the rust remover to sit too long or it will stain. Here are some links but you might find better prices somewhere else.

http://www.amazon.com/Sandflex-Sanding-Block-3-Pack/dp/B000GACU1Q

http://www.theruststore.com/Boeshield-Rust-Free-Spray-P2C1.aspx?UserID=7344303&SessionID=AeIVAAVvzmhXwrpDw190

[Mike Siemsen]

Just use sandpaper, use the finest grit that works. Then I wipe on synthetic motor oil.
Mike

[Zahid Naqvi]

Mike, I like your idea. I will try that, never thought about motor oil for rust prevention. I think the problem was the tools sat in storage for almost 9-10 months and went through a couple of seasonal changes which eventually added up.
Gary, thanks for the links. I have restored lots of old tools, but typically they tend to be deeply rusted and require some kind of acid or electrolytic treatment. Never had my own tools rust on me before, mainly because I use them at least once a week and in general keep an eye on them continuously.

[Prashun Patel]

I like steel wool and wd40. A light coat of wd40 after also makes a reasonable rust preventer. Wet it and let it soak overnight. This may minimize the abrasion required, if burnishing is an issue.

[Zahid Naqvi]

I never had luck with WD-40, most people will tell you wd-40 is not much of a rust preventer. Burnishing is an issue on a Clifton shoulder plane I have, but I don't see any other way around it, except perhaps electrolysis. Then again I am a user not a collector, so a little ding here a little ding there, a little roughness here a little roughness there is not going to hurt my feelings, it adds character to the tools :cool:

[Bob Easton]

White vinegar is much milder than other rust removing chemicals and very effective for the light rust you describe. No scrubbing needed.

Just don't use it for your salads afterwards. :)

[David Weaver]

Another vote for scotchbrite, but I use paste wax with it on really light rust. I only use that after a sandflex block, mostly to clean off the abrasive and rubber that the block left behind.

It (scotchbrite - either gray or white) also makes a nice medium to apply wax to planes that don't get used a lot - much better rust protector than light oil.

[Gary Hodgin]

White vinegar is much milder than other rust removing chemicals and very effective for the light rust you describe. No scrubbing needed.

Just don't use it for your salads afterwards. :)

I wish someone would come up with a list of things that white vinegar does well. I think a list of things it doesn't do well would be shorter. I don't know how many times I've read that white vinegar is good for this and that. Never hear anything about the dark vinegar other than cooking. Thanks for the tip, I'll try it.

[Roger Newby]

I wish someone would come up with a list of things that white vinegar does well. I think a list of things it doesn't do well would be shorter. I don't know how many times I've read that white vinegar is good for this and that. Never hear anything about the dark vinegar other than cooking. Thanks for the tip, I'll try it.

Dark vinegar is made from apple cider and is a little more dilute. The apples give a flavor. White vinegar is a man made solution and serves as a condiment, cleaner, lime remover and so on. I believe there is a book about what you can do with white vinegar..........and it just falls short of being a miracle liquid. If Billie Mays was still alive, he'd be selling it for only $9.95 plus handling.....but wait a minute.........if you buy in the next ten minutes............:rolleyes:

[Jacob Mac]

Depending on the severity, I use a slurry of 3-1 oil and barkeepers friend.

[Richard Niemiec]

Once you get the rust off, get yourself some camilla oil in the large spray bottle from Japan Woodworker, or where ever.... spray a small rag and give the tools a light coat when you put the plane away. Camilla oil is wood friendly, as opposed to a WD40.

[Bill Houghton]

For light removal, I've used a scotch-brite pad and mineral sprites...

What do you feed your mineral sprites to keep them happy?

[Gary Hodgin]

What do you feed your mineral sprites to keep them happy?

The little devils will consume about anything, including light rust.

[Marv Werner]

The little devils will consume about anything, including light rust.

Gary,

I've searched all over for a gallon of Mineral "Sprites". When I ask about it, they just stare at my forehead.

Is Mineral Sprites anything like the soft drink? :D

[Gary Hodgin]

Gary,

I've searched all over for a gallon of Mineral "Sprites". When I ask about it, they just stare at my forehead.

Is Mineral Sprites anything like the soft drink? :D

Close, but not quite as sweet and can cause gas, highly inflammable.

[Andrew Gibson]

I derusted 5 saw plates today that I got while in Boston last week. 30 minutes in vinegar then wet sand with 320. They turned out quite well...

As for rust prevention I have started using a product called Eezox. It is a clp for guns. It seems to work quite well. As for long term prevention we will have to see, but the reviews say that people have stored guns for 10 years or more and had no rust.

[Zahid Naqvi]

Andrew, since you have used Eezox, does it stay oily after application or does it become sticky. Anything that will be detrimental to using tools.

[Andrew Gibson]

Andrew, since you have used Eezox, does it stay oily after application or does it become sticky. Anything that will be detrimental to using tools.

It goes on like any other oil, then seems to dry and leaves a slightly slick but not wet surface.

I have not found it to be sticky at all. It seems to help the soles of my planes slide a bit easier as well. So far I have not had any problem with gripping tools either, such as with a block plane, the plane does not slip in my hand.

I have also not seen any problems with residue affecting wood or the finishes on the tools.

Only draw back I have seen is it is a bit hard to find, and shipping usually exceeds the cost of the eezox. It also seems to be discontinued in the 4oz can that i have. I got mine here... http://www.magnumarms.com/html/ezzox.html

Shipping was quick and I felt fair.

It seems to do a very good job of protecting against rust in the Florida humidity, and my less then ideal garden shed workshop.