my 1ST disston Saw handle

[Robert Culver]

Hello I thought I would try to post a pic of the saw handle I have been working on I took the pics before I put the first coat of finish on.I have some things that I have picked out to do difrent the next time. Just thought I would offer it up for your thoughts.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b217/mendingline/DISSTOND7.jpg

[Jonathan McCullough]

That looks terrific, and if it's comfortable in your hand, I'd say congrats on a job well done.

[Marv Werner]

Nice job Robert. For a first try, I'd say excellent! :)

Here's my first try... :D

[Paul Saffold]

Nice, Marv. Would that be from the cubist style? :D

[David Christopher]

Robert, that looks great...what kind of finish are you going to use

[Marv Werner]

Well, you see, the blade has teeth on both edges so I had to make the handle to be used both ways and with either hand. Most comfortable with smaller hands.

Marv

[Bruce Haugen]

Marv,
you are a bad man!:D

Post your wheat carvings and tote rehabs!

[Robert Culver]

David I thought about a few finishes but settled on 1 coat of teak oil and 4 to 5 coats of qualisole. The teak oil is on its 72 hour cure now and the qualisole is on its way. I should have the finish done later this week will post a finished pic then.

[David Weaver]

Looks pretty good to me, and for functional purposes, perfect. Getting that V in the strap at the bottom to be crisp and deep is a bear, isn't it?

Start trying to make these things, and all of the sudden, you appreciate the artistry that goes into the older handles like George refers to.

[Robert Culver]

keeping the v's crisp was a chalenge the v on the inside of the handle was most difficult for me this is one of the things that I want to address in my next handle.I would like it to be just a touch more ponounced and i would like it to flow a bit better. The u shape above the handle opening is another thing I would like to tweek. I would like it to be just a touch more narrow and a not quiet as deep. I would also like to bring the bevel on the inside bottom of the handle out a hair more and have a very slightly more pronounced hump in the center of the back. But as for fit and feel and function its set.Thats my take but I tend to be extreemly fussy.

[David Weaver]

When you talk about the kind of improvements you're mentioning, we start to realize that we're ultimately pleasing ourselves by the quality of the work. But, that's the point, when we're not getting paid to do it.

I would like to see a video of george doing the V work, as when I tried to do mine, I had to sand it some to make it look acceptable. I could either carve it straight and get it very crisp, or carve it curved and have it not look as crisp and either one, I didn't like. I've avoided carving and kept to straight and gradual curved work in the furniture projects I've done, and it's costly when you get to something like a saw tote and you need to do it well. Can't avoid it forever.

Look forward to seeing your next one!

[Marv Werner]

Hi Robert,

When I've done the lamb's tongue, I used a rasp that has one flat side and one rounded side. This allows you to shape completely around the entire shape of it. I clamped the handle to a bench top with the area I was rasping, hanging over the edge of the bench. Actually, my bench top was my RAS. To get both sides the same, you have to flip the handle over from time to time.

If you examine some of the older handles like the Disston No.7,s for example, they aren't exactly curved on the sides of the handle. They kinda look curved as they blend into the other radiuses. The rasp helps to gradually go deeper, especially in the end grain that's in front and inside the hand grip area.

Here's an album with pictures of a total remodel of an old beater backsaw that I did a lamb's tongue on. Not the same as a No.7 but similar.
http://picasaweb.google.com/AlbumsPics.of.Marv/DavidSOther16Backsaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOiD5p3D37zo2QE #

Marv

[Robert Culver]

Ahhhh. I see that now thanks for pointing that out to me. Its more or less just a straight line but the surounding features tricked my eyes. is the rasp your speaking of a rifflers rasp is there a certain one I should consier?

[Marv Werner]

Nothing special about the rasp, just an ordinary medium cut rasp. I often use a rasp designed for working metal. You have to clear it or brush it often though. But you do get a pretty smooth cut not a lot of sanding afterward. It's the end grain that's always most difficult to work.

Have fun,
Marv