Welcome to new member Jonathan Szczepanski (who is buiding a new workshop) [Archive]

Jonathan Szczepanski

12-17-2004, 6:57 PM

Jonathan,

Welcome to the Creek. Nice website on your shop project.

FYI, you could probably do the shop electrical yourself and save $3000-4000. That may not be something you're interested in, but thought I'd let you know.

Is the lighting layout specifally showing diagonal lines for a reason?

Rob
Rob, I want to have half of the lights on one circuit and the other half on a second. This is so that if there is enough natural light from the outside, I'll only turn on half of the lights. I also want to have even light coverage from both light circuits, so the lights on each circuit are spread evenly across the ceiling. I thought that running the wire on a diagonal would be easier and use less wire then at 90 degrees... but I don't really know, I;m just guessing at it.

As for the electric, I am going to run all of the circuits myself. I am contracting someone to run power to the shop, because it is out of my comfort zone... and you need to be a licensed electrician to do it.

Rob Russell

12-17-2004, 9:43 PM

Rob, I want to have half of the lights on one circuit and the other half on a second. This is so that if there is enough natural light from the outside, I'll only turn on half of the lights. I also want to have even light coverage from both light circuits, so the lights on each circuit are spread evenly across the ceiling. I thought that running the wire on a diagonal would be easier and use less wire then at 90 degrees... but I don't really know, I;m just guessing at it.

As for the electric, I am going to run all of the circuits myself. I am contracting someone to run power to the shop, because it is out of my comfort zone... and you need to be a licensed electrician to do it.
Is Maryland one of those states where you have to be licensed even to work on your own home? If it is, I understand. Still, you say that they're running the basic circuit (installing a subpanel in the shop) and you're doing the rest. The quote on your website was $7500 - is that just to trench power out to the shop, install ground rods and the subpanel? If it is, that seems high. Just my opinion.

FYI, installing a subpanel is really just another form of running a circuit. Yeah, there are some extra rules - but the basics are the same.

On the lights, run 14/3 down your middle set of lights. Run laterals off to each of the lights. With the 14/3, you can put each light on either circuit and switch from circuit to circuit simply by changing the hot conductor you use.

Rob

Rich Konopka

12-18-2004, 8:11 AM

Welcome Jonathan !!! It great to have more people swimming the creek. Outstanding website and best of luck with the shop contruction.

Jim Becker

12-18-2004, 8:53 AM

Welcome, Jonathan. 'Looks like you're going to have a great shop!

Jonathan Szczepanski

12-18-2004, 8:58 PM

Is Maryland one of those states where you have to be licensed even to work on your own home? If it is, I understand. Still, you say that they're running the basic circuit (installing a subpanel in the shop) and you're doing the rest. The quote on your website was $7500 - is that just to trench power out to the shop, install ground rods and the subpanel? If it is, that seems high. Just my opinion.
Maryland, and specifically Prince George's County, is extremly strict code wise. And the $7500 quote is for uping the house to 200 amps, trenching, and sending 60 amps to the shop. These prices are the reality for living outside of Washington, DC. The real estate market is insane, so contractors can pretty much charge what they want.

For example the foundation estimates ranged from $8900 to $25,000 for the exact same work. Amazing.

Frank Pellow

12-18-2004, 9:06 PM

Rob Russell

12-19-2004, 8:02 AM

Maryland, and specifically Prince George's County, is extremly strict code wise. And the $7500 quote is for uping the house to 200 amps, trenching, and sending 60 amps to the shop. These prices are the reality for living outside of Washington, DC. The real estate market is insane, so contractors can pretty much charge what they want.

For example the foundation estimates ranged from $8900 to $25,000 for the exact same work. Amazing.Hey - ya play by the rules you're given. "Strict codeist" doesn't mean you couldn't do the work yourself, unless there are other local laws that say you must be a licensed electrician to work on your own home.

60 amp panel? I'd put in a 100 amp sub for the shop. The difference in materials cost is nominal - slightly larger conduit and conductors. Put in a large panel too - lots of breaker slots. You might be talking about a few hundred $ upcharge to go from the 60 amp to 100 amp panel given the length of the trench and captive market pricing you have to deal with. Still, you're far better of having the extra capacity and not needing it than to discover you want the juice and have to upgrade later.

Do it "right" the first time.

Ken Fitzgerald

12-19-2004, 9:16 AM

Jonathan........Welcome to the 'Creek! Neat bunch here always willing to exchange ideas! I'm like Frank building a new shop. I'm finishing electrical wiring for lighting and then I'm ready to insulate and cover. If I may....I'll agree with Rob......I'd consider 100 amp service to your new shop. Not much increase in price. I installed 200 amp service and a separate meter to mine. I'm lucky in that my monthly minimun charge for the additional meter is only 6 dollar plus change. I live in a town that is extremely code conscience and so am I! I've moved and lived in a wide variety of places in my 36 years of marriage and the biggest headaches I've faced as a homeowner came as a result of some previous owners non-compliance to codes. However, having strict codes doesn't necessarily mean you can't do the work yourself, it just means it has to meet code requirements. Good luck with you project! I hope you enjoy building yours as much as I've had and am having!

Kelly C. Hanna

12-19-2004, 11:17 AM

Welcome Jonathan! Looks like you have a great plan there. Glad you are going to chronical the construction on the web.

Jonathan Szczepanski

01-05-2005, 4:07 PM

The foundation isn't finished yet. Because of the weather and the holidays, my foundation contractor, Fred, hasn't been able to get back to work on it. I'm hoping that Fred will be able to start the block work next week. After that is the slab, but Fred wants to wait until the slab is covered over before he pours. This is not how I thought the plan would go.

Fred says right now that weather is too unpredictable to pour the slab with confidence. He says the best way to proceed is to build the block walls, and then frame as much of the structure as possible until I can get the area for the slab covered. Once the slab is covered, he then can pour the slab without having to worry about the weather.

With a closed space rain or snow will be kept off of the ground, and Fred said that he can then use a "warming blanket" to keep the temperature at a pourable level.

The problem with going this route is that if I don't have a slab as a work surface. Where can I build the walls? I won't be able to frame the walls on the ground and keep them square.

Here are the options that I see.

OPTION 1 - Wait for an opportunity to pour the slab before the framing.
Pro: It will be easier to frame.
Con: It could be a while before Mother Nature coperates. The slab could be poured in less then ideal conditions, and it would run the risk of cracking after.

OPTION 2 - Frame before at an alternate framing area (my deck).
Pro: Faster time line. Pour can happen at anytime after the area is covered.
Con: Transporting walls from framing area to construction area. Maintaining "square" during transport.

OPTION 3 - Frame before on the ground.
Pro: Faster time line. Pour can happen at anytime after the area is covered.
Con: Walls will be more difficult to construct accurately due to the irregular ground.

So what does everyone think? Which option would you go with? Does anyone have a better option?

dave schaefer

01-05-2005, 5:31 PM

it seems to me that the walls are more temp delicate than the slab. concrete for the slab can be placed at temps as low as 40 f without a
problem.. if u are unsure have fred order Type III cement (high early) cover the slab with visqueen for 24 hrs ...heat of hydration is sufficient to continue the chemical process

Bob Wilkerson

01-07-2005, 6:31 AM

OPTION 3 - Frame before on the ground.
Pro: Faster time line. Pour can happen at anytime after the area is covered.

As soon as the block foundation is finished you can go a head and frame the shop. After installing the sill plates just build a temporary "shelf" to support the top of the wall roughly level with the sill. Squaring the walls is simple to do with your tape measure before applying the plywood. Then a few good friends can help you lift it into place.

This method is SOP (Standard Operating Procedure) for us as we prefer to get the framing done first and pour second. Doesn't slow us down and helps prevent damage to the poured floor during construction.

Bob Wilkerson

Jonathan Szczepanski

01-07-2005, 7:42 AM

There is another option. I asked my contractor brother-in-law and he suggested building the block walls, excavate for the pour, and lay down the gravel base. If I layed plywood on the gravel, it would be a level base that isn't muddy to frame on. I could frame the walls and then pour the foundation after the walls are covered.

I think this option makes the most sense. Hopefully my foundation contractor will go for it.

Frank Pellow

01-07-2005, 8:05 AM

I like option 4 much better than the ones that you listed previously.

Jonathan Szczepanski

02-24-2005, 1:17 PM

Alice and I went to Second Chance (http://www.secondchanceinc.org/) in Baltimore. Second Chance is a non-profit warehouse store that sells salvage construction and architectural pieces. We went looking for doors and windows for the workshop.

I need two sets of french doors for the shop. I want french doors to let in light to the shop. Unfortunately, I could not find two pairs of doors that looked the same. I found two different pairs that would work, but the sizes were a little different as were the styles. The price of the doors were very inexpensive though. I could get a set of salvaged french doors for $180. The doors did not come with casing, hinges, or a lockset, but I think that was still a great price.

I did not find windows that would work either. They had plenty - and I mean plenty - of windows, but I need eight of them. I could have bought eight different windows, all of different styles and sizes, but again I want them to be the same. I might get one for the second floor window though. That window will be all by itself, so it could be unique.

I covered the foundation footings with some 6 mil plastic sheeting I bought. This was just a feeble attempt to keep out the rain and snow so that Fred could come down and finish up the foundation work.

It is still a waiting game.

I added the photos to the Photos page (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php).

John Scarpa

02-24-2005, 11:42 PM

Welcome aboard Jonathan, Looks like you are going to have quite a ahop there!

lou sansone

02-25-2005, 9:37 AM

nice plan... I agree that you should think about 100 amp service. What about heat? Is there room for expansion?

welcome to the creek
lou

Jonathan Szczepanski

02-25-2005, 10:06 AM

nice plan... I agree that you should think about 100 amp service. What about heat? Is there room for expansion?
Lou -

I am reconsidering going to 100 amp service. I don't know what that is going to do the price, but I'm at least going to look into it. Of course I have more pressing issues, like still just having a hole in the ground.

For heating, I bought a woodstove last year on clearance at Lowes. It was 60% off, so I bought it. It is sitting in my garage right now. I am reconsidering the woodstove though. I am concerned that I won't be able to use flammables in the shop with the woodstove. I have looked into other options.

If I don't use the woodstove I would like to use a direct-vent sealed propane heater. There was an article in an old Fine Woodworking - the exact issue escapes me now - that recommends using this type of heater. The system is sealed. It receives its consumable oxygen from outside the structure, not inside. This makes it much safer. But these systems are not cheap. I've seen prices in the thousands, without installation. I will need to really research this before committing to it. Luckily, I have a friend that works at an HVAC company. I am going to give him a call and see what he thinks.

Expansion... I have thought about it. There might be some room on either the North or South sides, but I'm hoping that it with 600 square feet in the workshop, and a second floor, I won't need to expand.

In the future I think a finishing room would be at the top of my list. A bathroom might also be nice, but for now I can make a dash to the house.

Dave Harker

02-26-2005, 3:18 AM

Jonathan, regarding heaters, I have a Reznor heater that uses separated combustion (takes in combustion air from the outside). It is in the UDAS model line, a link to reznor's webpage for UDAS line is below. It works quite well.

They have other model lines as well. Mine was about $1500 installed, for 45k BTU, about $400 more then the non-separated combustion model. I wanted the safely and longer life (no dust) of the separated combustion. Plus, it is more efficient, since the models which draw in air from the shop space are basically sucking in that much cold air from outside, via cracks, to supply the combustion air.

They use a concentric pipe to both intake and exhaust with one hole in your wall/roof. They can be vented either horizontally thru the wall, or up thru the ceiling/roof. They can use propane or natural gas.

I have no connection to reznor, just a happy customer. Nearly all the HVAC firms in my area use the Reznor brand for shop and garage heat (I checked at a local home show, talked to 6-8 HVAC firms there, they all handed out the same brochures).

http://www.rezspec.com/index.php?pageid=000000000007&mod_catalog[catid]=000000000005&mod_catalog[category]=000000000001&mod_catalog[mode]=detail

Frank Pellow

02-26-2005, 8:09 AM

I have the Empire DV-35 (see: http://www.empirecomfort.com/) direct vent propane space heater. It cost me $950 (Cdn) for the space heater and about $200 (Cdn) for installation. The total works out to about $930 US at today's conversion rate. The unit heats my 470 foot shop very well.

By the way, I also have a wood stove.

Bart Leetch

02-26-2005, 1:36 PM

Jonathan

Welcome to SMC.

I think your going to have a nice shop. I understand your choice of french doors for light but am concerned with the ease of break in it presents. Of course I don't know about the area you live in but it seems that now days it doesn't make much difference because there are thieves everywhere. My idea has always been to have windows up high to allow light into the shop but make it hard for thieves to see into the shop. Much like Franks shop. I like that type of roof which we refer around here to as a chicken coop roof.

I grew up in a shop with a 50 gallon barrel wood stove. The most important thing is fire proof materials around the stove & keeping it clean & fairly dust free. The shop was 20' x 50' There was a fan above & behind the stove running on low speed blowing across the top of the stove to circulate the heat around the shop. In talking to my Dad about finishing he told me that between building houses & buildings i.e. Apartment complexes, restaurants & schools most of his cabinet work was in the late spring & summer. He took his finish work outside & used a fast drying finish by Miller that was similar to Varathane & he could add the coloring to the finish & shoot it in one pass.

I think you could use the wood stove to heat when not finishing & for your own enjoyment, but may need to come up with another heat source for the times when you want to finish inside. Don't forget to provide plenty of ventilation i.e. fan type exhaust systems & fresh air inlets.

Jim Becker

02-26-2005, 5:48 PM

I think your going to have a nice shop. I understand your choice of french doors for light but am concerned with the ease of break in it presents.
There is no more breakin potential than any other form of door as long as they are installed properly and security measures taken. My shop utilizes two double, insulated steel doors with windows and unlike many French door setups, both doors also open. I also have mine setup as outward opening to insure that no shop space is taken when they are allowing air and light into the shop in nice weather. However, they have security hinges to insure they can't be lifted off from the outside and in addition to dead bolts, they are pinned into both the header and the concrete floor when closed and locked. They are actually more secure than the "garage doors" that previously existed in the openings. Both doors are 6' wide when open for easy access with large objects...like big tools and big projects. The insulated windows in each one let a lot of light in, too, but because the deadbolts are key-operated on both sides (same in the pedestrian entry door that also has glass) someone smashing said glass still cannot open the door. And if someone has the capablity to get by these doors...there is little else that would keep them out, anyway. (The security system would help keep the visit short, however...)

I do agree with the concept of having windows generally located up high in a shop building if there is a choice; not so much for security as for preserving wall space. My shop has plenty of windows, but they also take a very large percentage of the usable wall space, too. If I were building a structure just for a shop, that would not be the case.

Jonathan Szczepanski

02-28-2005, 8:13 AM

...I understand your choice of french doors for light but am concerned with the ease of break in it presents. Of course I don't know about the area you live in but it seems that now days it doesn't make much difference because there are thieves everywhere. My idea has always been to have windows up high to allow light into the shop but make it hard for thieves to see into the shop.
Bart - I am concerned about security as well. I was planning on having shades for all of the windows and doors so that when I am not there, prying eyes won't be able to see in. Hopefully I will remember to pull down the shades when I leave.

...they have security hinges to insure they can't be lifted off from the outside and in addition to dead bolts, they are pinned into both the header and the concrete floor when closed and locked.
Jim - I haven't thought about security hinges or pinning the doors. Thanks for the ideas. I was planning on having keyed locks on the inside as well as the outside. That is something my father taught me.

Bart Leetch

02-28-2005, 9:41 AM

On those french doors are the latches at the top & bottom in-between the doors where they can't be gotten to when the doors are closed or just fastened to the inside surface of one door? I would hate to think that all that was needed was to break a pane top & bottom & pull the latches & swing the doors open.

Jonathan Szczepanski

02-28-2005, 11:02 AM

Jonathan Szczepanski

04-04-2005, 9:31 PM

Here in Maryland, we've been getting a lot of rain lately. I've had to pump out the footer trench twice in a week. I've borrowed a pond pump from a friend. It has taken four hours to pump all of the water out.

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2005_03_19_a.jpg

More pics are here (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php).

I've also gotten in touch with my foundation contractor. He is targeting April 14th to start again. He did mention that he is unsure about how wet the grounds are going to be though. He said last time his Bobcat got stuck in the mud twice.

My co-worker gave me an idea. He worked on the grounds crew at RFK stadium. They would put down plywood for the camera trucks to drive on when it was muddy. He thinks that the plywood would be fine, but I think it might snap from the weight of the Bobcat.

Does anyone have any thoughts one this? Will the plywood standup to the weight of the Bobcat? Is there a better way to do it?

Dan Forman

04-05-2005, 2:08 AM

Jonathon---First of all, welcome to SMC. Have you considered a heated floor for a source of heat for the shop? I have no idea of the initial cost, but in the long run, I hear they really save on heating costs on a monthly basis. I belive they use a water heater as a heat source, a system of pipes is put in place and the concrete floor is poured around them, then the hot water is circulated throughout the concrete floor. Just a thought. I'm sure you will have an eviable shop when it is all put together.

Dan

Jonathan Szczepanski

04-05-2005, 7:49 AM

Have you considered a heated floor for a source of heat for the shop?

Dan -
If my shop was going to be next to the house, I would consider having radiant floor heating. But since the shop is over 100' from the house, the cost would is too high. The distance is the same reason I am not going to have plumbing in the shop.

Jim Becker

04-05-2005, 10:03 AM

Jonathan, you might be surprised at how economical a radiant in-floor system can be with PEX tubing and a simple, propane fired hot water heater. You don't need to heat things to high temps, either. Check it out carefully since it's not something you can easily retrofit. And the advantage with this kind of heat is that it doesn't move the air around and affect your finishing or blow nuisance dust around like a blower will.

Jonathan Szczepanski

04-05-2005, 10:16 AM

Jonathan, you might be surprised at how economical a radiant in-floor system can be with PEX tubing and a simple, propane fired hot water heater.

Jim -

I haven't really done research into it, but I will. Do you know if they have a sealed propane boiler? If they don't I will have the same safety issues that I would have with any other heater.

Jonathan Szczepanski

05-17-2005, 9:57 PM

Ok. I have a lot to update since last time. So I have had the problems with Fred Graziano. He still did not come to do more work on the foundation, so my wife and I both called Fred and gave him an ultimatum. He needs to either finish the job and have it inspected by May 20th, or I am going to find another contractor and he will need to give me back my second payment of $3900.

After leaving three messages, Fred finally called me back. He said with all of the other jobs that he has, he will not be able to get the job done and inspected by the 20th. I said that I was cancelling the contract and getting a new contractor.

To his credit, Fred did apologize for not being able to complete the job and he did not hesitate in saying that he would repay the $3900. I hope he does.

So now what? Well, I have found a new contractor. His name is Sandro and he works for Matamoros Construction. (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/contractors.php#f7) He was recommended to me by a co-worker. He has been great so far.

Sandro has arrived on time. He has done what he said he would do. He is polite and responsive.

In this contract, I wrote in a clause that if he does not complete the job within four weeks, 10% will be deducted from the contract price for every week it is late. Hopefully this will protect me from the delays I encourred with Fred. Sandro had no qualms about putting this phrase in the contract. That is a good sign.

Now the exciting part... pictures (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php)! I have pictures from the last two days of work. Now let’s keep this coaster rolling.

Frank Pellow

05-17-2005, 11:03 PM

Thanks for the update Jonathan, and let's hope that things work out OK. In fact, I hope they work out a lot better than OK.

Corey Hallagan

05-17-2005, 11:03 PM

Hope it all turns out well for you Jonathan. It looks like a beautiful piece of property! Going to be a long walk to the shop though on cold mornings :)

Corey

Kelly C. Hanna

05-17-2005, 11:35 PM

Welcome Jonathan! can't wait to see more pics of the new shop!

John Bush

05-18-2005, 1:12 AM

Hi Jonathan,
Congrats on makng new progress. I couldn't tell by the pics if you have the slab poured yet. I built a 1560sqft shop using radiant heat with a natural gas fired hot water tank as the heat source. Extra costs for you would be the tubing (~$600), water heater, zone manifold, pump, relay, and thermostat. If you are plumbing the shop anyway a lot of the work is already lined out. We don't have extreme weather out here in the PNW, but having radiant heat is a great advantage in maintaining consistant heat and humidity levels. If it is at all feasible I'd at least invest in and install the tubing and you can always complete the system later. I didn't plan for a wood burning stove when designing my shop and I wish I had one just to help control my scrap pile. I am now boxing it up and taking to my office for staff members with fireplaces. Good luck, John.

Bill Lewis

05-18-2005, 6:56 AM

Jonathan,

Glad to hear you are making progress. I do hope you are able to recover your money from the contractor. If it becomes messy, there are avenues that you can take in Montgomery county, but it does take time and effort.

If you do put in the PEX tubing for a (future?) radiant floor heating system, here is the sequence of layers.
4" of crushed stone over compacted base, 4 mil vapor barrier, 1/2" extruded polystyrene insulation board, 6x6 wire mesh. You need the 1/2" foam board for a thermal break from the ground. The 6X6 wire gives you something to wire-tie the PEX tubing to, as well as adding strength to the concrete. My neighbor owns a plumbing and heating company in Gaithersburg, and he installed radient floor heating for his whole house, this is the method he used for his basement. PM me if you really want to know the name of his company. He is very good, and I would recomend him to anyone, but he is not cheap.

BTW I see that you have ties placed in the wall, is this for brick, or stone?

Jonathan Szczepanski

05-18-2005, 7:36 AM

I looked into the radiant floor heating, and it is going to cost about $3000 to have it done. While I love the idea of radiant floor heating, I think the cost is just going to be too much. I'm already spending more then I thought I was going to. I need to save money where I can.

As for the wall ties, I have no idea what they are for. I think the contractor installed them in case I wanted to add facing to it. He was talking to me about it yesterday, but I'm not really interested in adding facing to my workshop. My house myabe, but not my workshop.

Bill Lewis

05-18-2005, 7:51 AM

Johathan,

Can't blame you there. I know how it goes. You first start out with a firm budget, then it becomes a guide, then more of a suggestion really, ending up at the "way-over" stage.

Rob Russell

05-18-2005, 7:55 AM

Jonathan, - just a thought on the radiant heat. A lot of the expense is the labor of installing the system. That's something you could easily do yourself before the slab is poured. You could probably get the whole system in for under $1500, based on the $600 price for the pex tubing. You could even go the route of installing the pex tubing now, but waiting a year to buy the hot water heater. Putting the insulation and tubing in now is work that you can do. You can even go the route of getting the walls/roof framed and deal with the dirt floor later. The one caveat to that is you'd need to have a big garage door to the shop to get stuff in and out, but you may be planning that anyway.

Jonathan Szczepanski

05-19-2005, 4:56 AM

Johathan,

Can't blame you there. I know how it goes. You first start out with a firm budget, then it becomes a guide, then more of a suggestion really, ending up at the "way-over" stage.

Bill - What's after "way-over"? Second mortgage? :)

Bill Lewis

05-19-2005, 6:03 AM

Bill - What's after "way-over"? Second mortgage? :)Heck no, that stage should've preceeded the "firm budget". But if you were lucky enough to skip that part, then I think what's next is the "we'll get by somehow" stage.

My very first remoldeling project on my last house started by stripping some paint from some trim, and ended up replacing the front door, and flooring and plaster, and wiring, and trim and... I'm no stranger to the snowball effect. The "might as well's" and "cheaper to do it now's" and the "sure would be nice to have's" do start to add up. You have to either re-prioritise, or compromise, or damn the budget, full speed ahead.

After all is said and done and the project is basically finished, and you are moved in to the shop. Don't be surprised if you don't build anything for awhile. Not only do you need time to grieve over your loss of hard saved money, you probaby won't have any left to buy materials to build anything. You'll be surprised on how useful leftover 2x4's and OSB ply pieces can be.

By the way, Let me throw one more "maybe ought to do" on your list. This is only valid if you have not poured your slab yet. Have you considered putting conduit under the floor for table saw dust collection, and power?
If not, then now is the time. I did so for my shop, and I think it is the way to go. I used 4" PVC electrical conduit for the DC and 1" electrical conduit for power. I used electrical conduit because it has large radius elbows unlike schedule 40 pvc. If I were to do it again, I would have used 6" conduit instead. 6" is better to run both the cabinet dust collection and an over-arm dust collection for the saw. Think about it. If you like, you can come by and check mine out. I'm local.

Jonathan Szczepanski

05-19-2005, 8:21 AM

Have you considered putting conduit under the floor for table saw dust collection, and power?...If you like, you can come by and check mine out. I'm local.

Bill -

I've thought about the in-floor conduit/duct work. I just don't like the permanence of it. If I changed my mind, I'd have a hole in the floor. Plus I would worry about a clog in the duct work. Then I'd need to snake it out or worse.

Also, I would need to change my foundation plans, and I'm scared to make a change that would delay the foundation completion anymore.

If I deem it worthy, I might build a plywood floor and run both underneath it. At least then I could unscrew the plywood and fix/change anything. I still need to sleep on that one.

Jonathan
=======================================

Jonathan Szczepanski

06-01-2005, 9:58 PM

So far so good. The foundation has passed inspection for the pour. My contractor says that the concrete is scheduled for the pour on Monday. As long as the weather cooperates, the foundation should be finished next week.

Of course there are pictures:

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2005_06_01_a.jpg

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2005_06_01_b.jpg

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2005_06_01_c.jpg

See all of the photos (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php)

Norman Hitt

06-01-2005, 10:48 PM

Jonathan, looking good, but I see one thing I would do differently. The contractors, and even the building inspector told me I didn't need rebar in my shop floor, (except in the footings), or at least not much, but I put my foot down and told them it was MY building, and I wanted rebar both directions, every two feet, as well as the 6" wire mesh, And I made the floor 5" thick. After all, Rebar isn't that expensive in the whole picture of the job cost. They also added the fiberglass strands in the concrete mix, and after two and a half years, there is not One structural, or even a surface crack anywhere in the 25'+ x 32' main floor or the 6' x 25' shed floor, and there isn't any expansion joints in it either. I found out the other day, that every concrete floor that was done within 6 month of mine by that group of concrete contractors has cracked, BUT, NONE of them had the Extra Rebar in the floors that I demanded.

With as much water as you have in the soil from all those rains, I would think the extra Rebar I mentioned would sure be good insurance to eliminate cracking of your floor.

Just my humble opinion. Good Luck on the pour.

Steve Stube

06-02-2005, 12:07 AM

Rebar and wire don't keep your floor from cracking (ideally it's placed at the neutral axis of the slab - how could it) it only keeps the crack from separating. Proper fill material (good sand or gravel base) and compaction play a key role in preventing cracks. Remember that concrete has a very high compressive strength but little strength in tension. If the soil is compacted the same everywhere - no cracks.

Jonathan Szczepanski

06-07-2005, 8:22 AM

The slab was poured. They started at 2:30 when the concrete was delivered and finished at 7:30, just before thunderstorms came. I have not inspected the finished product yet, but as soons as I do I will put up more pictures.

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2005_06_06_a.jpg

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2005_06_06_c.jpg

See all of the photos (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php)

Tyler Howell

06-07-2005, 11:29 AM

Jonathon,

You have done a really fine job of capturing your process include the contractors you did not select. Very fine job.
Enjoy

Jonathan Szczepanski

06-07-2005, 11:33 AM

Jonathon,

You have done a really fine job of capturing your process include the contractors you did not select. Very fine job.
Enjoy

Tyler - Thanks. Hopefully now I will be able to actually do some of the construction instead of just documenting it.

Jonathan
=======================================

Bill Lewis

06-07-2005, 3:05 PM

Hey Johnathan, I sent you a PM. Don't worry, I know how it gets during the construction process.
Do you plan on doing the framing yourself?

Steve Stube

06-07-2005, 4:10 PM

Johnathan, I'm so happy for your progress. It has been a long haul and I imagine frustrating for you but you persevered and I hope from this point on that you'll have a smoother sail.

Jonathan Szczepanski

06-13-2005, 12:54 PM

Hey Johnathan, I sent you a PM. Don't worry, I know how it gets during the construction process.
Do you plan on doing the framing yourself?

Bill - I do plan on framing the workshop myself. At first I was rather intimidated by the whole thing.

"I've never done this before."
"Could I actually build a structure that would pass code?"
"What am I, nuts?"

These are some of the things I thought to myself in the beginning, but as I was researching the project, I learned how most of the framing works. I looked at each bit individually, and realized that I think it is within my abilities to do build this. Looking at the project on the micro level gave me the confidence to take on this challenge, rather then think of building a small house and being overwhelmed.

Now I won't be able to build it as fast as most people, and I can't do everything myself (specifically the foundation and bring the electric to the shop), but I feel confident I will complete this. I am also relying on friends and family to help out, because there are going to be times when I can't do it by myself - like raising a wall or lifting floor joists.

When I will complete this is a whole other story.

Jonathan Szczepanski

06-13-2005, 12:56 PM

Johnathan, I'm so happy for your progress. It has been a long haul and I imagine frustrating for you but you persevered and I hope from this point on that you'll have a smoother sail.

Steve - Thanks for the kind words. I'm hoping that things will go smoother since I don't have to deal with a contractor anymore.

Jonathan Szczepanski

06-13-2005, 12:58 PM

This weekend I got something accomplished. First I went to the Percontee (http://maps.google.com/maps?q=percontee&ll=39.049524,-76.952444&sll=39.045524,-76.924168&spn=0.062134,0.116751&sspn=0.124268,0.233502&hl=en) gravel pit and got two loads of pea gravel for the drainage ditch. It turned out to be 3+ tons of gravel. Of course my Ranger only has a 1000 lbs. limit, so I was low-riding on the way home.

I got the gravel at Percontee, because it is so cheap. Three tons of material only cost me $24 dollars. Originally I was going to buy some gravel at Lowes, but at $2.60 a bag there is no way I would get it there or Home Despot.

So I unloaded the gravel in my backyard. I then continued to dig more of the drainage ditch. I finally got enough of the trench dug so that I could put in a ten foot section of pipe. Before I put the pipe in the trench I put down some filter fabric. I then laid the pipe and covered it with the pea gravel.

Things to do this week:
1. Finish the trench
2. Cut off the bits of rebar that are sticking out the top of the cinder block
3. Attach the sill plate to the foundation.

Chris Fite

06-13-2005, 3:11 PM

Jonathan Szczepanski

06-13-2005, 3:31 PM

You can frame these walls yourself. Don't underestimate your ability to raise them alone. These are the 12 foot walls of my shop. I raised them myself. In fact, I have done all of the work except for the slab and footers, electric panel, and the trusses.

Chris - If I have to raise the walls by myself, I will figure out a way. But I just don't seeing it happening safely. My first challenge is just handling the weight. I was planning on sheathing the walls before I raised them, but if I don't sheath until the walls are up, I should be able to handle the wieght.

The other challenge is going to be raising the wall on the concrete block wall. If the walls were going to be on the ground, it would be a simple lift and position. But since there is the possibility of the wall falling off the block, I will need to figure out a way to prevent it from sliding.

BTW, I didn't see any pictures of the walls that you constructed. Could you try sending/posting them again?

Bill Lewis

06-13-2005, 3:45 PM

Jonathan,

First, a suggestion, set your PT sill plates first. Use 2x8's drill them for the foundation bolts, and countersink the holes for the nut and washer. Cut off any foundation bolt that extends above the sill plate. Don;t forget to use rolled foam sill sealer too.
Now when you set the walls on the foundation and raise them, you have something to attach "stops" to, and no bolts/nuts stickin up interfering with the location of the wall.
Suggestion no. 2. It is still better to sheath the walls before you raise them, even if you have to build the walls in sections to make it manageable. The walls will remain square, and there is less handling of the sheathing this way.

Chris Fite

06-13-2005, 5:10 PM

I could not attach the photograph because of something that needed to be done to my browser. I put them on the server, but it appears that the photograph is a tad large for this application. Now, I have it better sized.

My shop is on a slab on grade, so the challenge of the wall foundation is not there for me. I built the walls in section, framed every third stub and sheathed one corner for support and squareness. I set the sill in place aligned with the bolts, set a drag behind to keep the wall from falling back, and raised them into place. It was interesting, to say the least.

I could never get coordinated with my helpers, so did this alone in order to keep the project moving.

Some parts of this project are the ones that I don't wan to repeat.

Jonathan Szczepanski

06-15-2005, 8:40 AM

Today I finally got to work on the trimming the rebar that was projecting from the cement block. I borrowed an angle grinder from a friend (Thanks Johnny!) and bought some cut-off and grinding discs. The cutting did not go as well as I thought it would. I could not cut as close to the block as I would have hoped, because the grinder would get in the way. This left more of the rebar projecting from the block. I had a lot more grinding to do then I would have liked. I haven‘t finished all of the grinding yet - I have completed about a third of it - , but I am hoping to finish that up tonight.

I have uploaded some pictures (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php) of the drainage trench, the slab and one of me grinding away. If anyone needs to use an angle grinder, make sure you wear eye protection, a long sleve shirt, and long pants. The sparks do fly. Even with the long pants shirt I got a couple of sparks that managed to find their way into my gloves. It didn‘t hurt, but it did remind me of the potential for injury.

A couple of other things to mention. When i took the tarp off the slab the other day, I wasn‘t happy with the finish of the slab. It had a lot of bumps and dips in it. I called up Sandro from Matamoros Construction (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/contractors.php#f7) to see when he could come out to fix this. He said he will come out this Saturday to smooth it out and fix a couple of the cement blocks on the backside of the wall. Some of the grout and fallen out in between a few of the blocks.

Lastly, I haven‘t received the second payment back from Fred Graziano yet. I called him and left a very... direct message stating that if I do not receive my $3900 by June 20th, I would be taking it to the next level.

Frank Pellow

06-15-2005, 8:47 AM

Thanks for the update and the pictures.

I am sorry about all the problems you are having but it is good that you are sticking to the job and overcoming those problems. Good luck in collecting the money.

Steve Stube

06-15-2005, 1:28 PM

Jonathan Szczepanski

06-15-2005, 3:20 PM

You do have some "J" bolts burried in the foundation block for attachment of the bottom plate, right? I don't see them in the photo but then I also don't see the rebar you are grinding off. Hope they were not one and the same.

Steve - Good question. That is a mistake on my part. When I was finding a new foundation contractor, I forgot to tell the new contractor to install j-bolts. In the picture I am grinding off rebar. I am going to attach the sill plate with sleeved bolts that I am going to drill into the cement block.

Frank Pellow

06-15-2005, 3:24 PM

Steve - Good question. That is a mistake on my part. When I was finding a new foundation contractor, I forgot to tell the new contractor to install j-bolts. In the picture I am grinding off rebar. I am going to attach the sill plate with sleeved bolts that I am going to drill into the cement block.
I am surprised that the new contractor did not suggest that they should be installed. :(

Steve Stube

06-15-2005, 3:49 PM

Sorry to hear that. I think I saw them laying beside the leftover block in 1 st June 1 photo. I would have opted to weld bolts to the rebar sticking out to get a deep reaching anchor. True the holes in the plate would have been a little larger and some blocking needed to take up the slack but it could have been a good save. I'm sure glad I don't have your contractors to deal with. Putting the brick ties in when it wasn't called for demonstrates ________, you fill in the blank. Now no "J" bolts, wonder what their day job is. It has left you with a lot of extra work.

I suggest you keep the floor wet down for a week or so to help the cure procede - I can't give you the reason behind it but I know the experts do it so I follow their lead.

Jonathan Szczepanski

06-17-2005, 9:06 AM

Now no "J" bolts, wonder what their day job is. It has left you with a lot of extra work.

Steve - I know j-bolts would have been stronger, but I'm not sure it is going to be extra work. It will make installing the sill plate a lot easier. I won't have to fidget with getting the holes in the sill plate to line up with j-bolts. Now I can just cut the sill plate, pre-drill the plate, square them up, and then drill for the anchors. I think it will turn out fine.

This might also be my "deal-with-the-hand-you-were-dealt" attitude. I know I'm not the most forceful person, and I have always had problems getting people to do things they are supposed to do, but hopefully I will turn that around.

Jonathan Szczepanski

06-17-2005, 9:08 AM

Having still not recevied the returned $3900 from Fred Graziano, I called him again on my way home yesterday. As usual, I had to leave a message. In the message I reiterated what I said on Monday, If I didn’t receive the check for $3900 by Monday June 20th, I would be taking it to the next level, meaning small claims court or civil court.

Unfortunately I still had my mobile phone on vibrate from a meeting I had early, so I didn’t know that Fred called me back. He did leave a message stating:

I’m tired of getting your sh--ty messages. We had a contract and you went behind my back and got someone else to finish the job. As far as the $3900, I have receipts for the block, rebar and materials that I bought. So if you want to "take it to the next level" have your lawyer contact my lawyer. Never call my phone again.If I don’t get the money from him on Monday, I guess I will file papers with the circuit court of Maryland.

Just what I need, more problems.

Larry Norton

06-17-2005, 11:25 AM

Jonathan, it's nice to see another neighbor from Md.

You're right about the housing market here. And the taxes here are getting rediculous! Our old house was $1300 a year. Even though we HAD to build a new house to replace the one destroyed by the tornado, our taxes went up a little. I paid $2,900 last year! My old house, which actually had more square feet, was appraised at $140,000. The new one is $207,000, and I've been told I could sell it for $350.000. 1,875 square feet with 2-1/2 baths. Because we have a cathedral ceiling in the living room, we had to pay higher taxes! I may not be able to afford to live here much longer.

Jonathan Szczepanski

06-20-2005, 9:51 AM

On Saturday Monty and Joe came over to help me finish digging the drainage trench (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php#20050618). It took us about two hours to finish the digging. Once the trench was dug, I layed down the filter fabric and the drain pipe. I then covered it with the pea gravel I bought the other week. There is still a small amount of gravel to put down. Then I’ll cover the gravel with some topsoil, then that part of the job will be done.

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2005_06_18_a.jpg

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2005_06_18_b.jpg

Jonathan Szczepanski

07-05-2005, 8:01 AM

This weekend I managed to do some work on the shop. I cut the sill plate, pre-drilled for the bolts, laid down the sill sealer, and inserted the bolts.

I had some problems once I got the bolts into the holes. Some of the bolts just didn’t grab in the holes. I would turn the nuts and the bolts would just keep rising without grabbing. Sometimes the bolts would just turn and turn in the holes along with the nuts. I will need to solve this problem soon.

Here is my guess with what is wrong. I think the holes might be a little too wide. I think there is some runout in the drill. This made the hole too wide and then the sleeves don’t grab in the holes.

I have some pictures that I will upload soon.

Kelly C. Hanna

07-05-2005, 12:00 PM

Frank Pellow

07-05-2005, 12:19 PM

Jonathan Szczepanski

07-05-2005, 8:56 PM

You can try the next size up in bolts....5/8" if you drilled 1/2" holes, etc. I'd rent a drill that didn't have runout if yours does.

The other way is to put the bolt back in with a cement compound or construction adhesive. I have seen this work, but the bigger bolts are better.

Kelly - The Creeker's sure are quick with the solutions. I haven't even had a chance to ask :-)

Thanks for the ideas. They sound like good options. I will price it out and see which will cost more...
and then immediately denote that as far inferior to the cheaper option.
Just kidding... sort of.

I have also uploaded the new photos (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php#20050704)

Jonathan Szczepanski

07-05-2005, 8:57 PM

Keep plugging away Jonathan. :)

Frank - All I seem to do is plug away, but I guess that's what I'm good at.

Frank Pellow

07-05-2005, 9:17 PM

Frank - All I seem to do is plug away, but I guess that's what I'm good at.
It's a very good thing to be good at, Jonathan. :)

Kelly C. Hanna

07-06-2005, 1:08 AM

Amen to that....it's kept me alive and kicking for many a year!

Jonathan Szczepanski

09-11-2005, 9:23 AM

Sorry for the long delay in posting, but here is the latest on my workshop:

Saturday was a big day. Two of my friends - Monty and Jon - came over and helped me build the South wall. (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/index.php) The first section of the wall took a couple of hours to assemble and lift into place, but the second section only took an hour.

Frank Pellow

09-11-2005, 9:31 AM

Jonathan, if "build the south wall" is supposed to be a link to something, that lnk does not work for me.

Richard Wolf

09-11-2005, 9:37 AM

Jonathan, if "build the south wall" is supposed to be a link to something, that lnk does not work for me.

Works for me.

Richard

Steve Stube

09-11-2005, 12:20 PM

Jonathan, glad to see you are making progress once again. I assume you have a number of 16' 2x4 braces on the wall South side because that is one big target for wind. The trees will help block some wind - BUT. I usually don't see the sheeting go on (except perhaps for the corner bracing) until the second top plate wraps all the wall framing together.

Anyway I am happy for your progress, it is looking good. Thanks for the update.

PS. you can see my pile of sticks here.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Shop%20Photos/Twostorypileofsticks9-13-82.jpg

Jim Becker

09-11-2005, 12:28 PM

I usually don't see the sheeting go on (except perhaps for the corner bracing) until the second top plate wraps all the wall framing together.

Very common around here, Steve, especially with builders like Toll Brothers who prefabricate wall panels in a "factory", ship them to the building site on trucks and then have the "framers" errect them. The sheathing is already in place on the panels.

Steve Stube

09-11-2005, 12:40 PM

Granted Jim, the big boys use that approach but the individual doesn't NORMALLY have the luxury of the equipment used to do it that way. Do you think Jonathan raised that wall with the sheeting on it already? I guess I didn't think he did but I may be wrong.

Jim Becker

09-11-2005, 12:48 PM

Frank Pellow

09-11-2005, 2:28 PM

Works for me.

Richard
Now, it works for me too.

Steve Stube

09-11-2005, 4:04 PM

Jim, "disposable cross bracing" ? If that is directed to me, I didn't have any, it all got used in the project.

What isn't clear in that fuzzy photo is steel "T" corner bracing on the lower level and the rest of the wood bracing became the stringers for the uppermost roof, which is metal roofing. Only borrowed them for a bit and left them in place until they were needed for the roof or got in the way.

The horizontal stringer below the second level floor is what I stood on to make setting floor joist and later nailing the trusses to the 2" x 12"s a little easier. Wouldn't attempt it again without a power nail gun. In 1982 it wasn't even a thought.

Jim Becker

09-11-2005, 4:47 PM

Jim, "disposable cross bracing" ? If that is directed to me, I didn't have any, it all got used in the project.

No, not directed at you in the least, Steve. (it was just some weak humor) SMC-ers don't tend to be wasteful! But many of the "big boy" builders around here are...it's unbelievable what goes in the dumpsters or burn piles.

Bart Leetch

09-11-2005, 5:59 PM

I've seen some small builders do it, too, but don't know if they raise the wall that way or put the sheathing on immediately just to tie things together "square" without using as much "disposable cross bracing"...who knows. I guess there is nothing wrong with it, althougha nice gust of wind could be interesting... ;)

My Dad used to frame wall panels with sheathing & even T-111 & windows on them in his shop a 32' x 32' area & stack them on a trailer. We also used to make our own trusses before you needed a engineered approved drawing to do so. Dad had a truss & rafter book that he used to refer to that had all the dimensions & drawings. Gee I wonder how we ever got along without all the hoops we have to jump through today. We hauled prefabbed walls & trusses from Vancouver Washington as far away as Long Beach Washington & over east of the Mountains.
At one time Dad was a field engineer for a large prefabbed home manufacture that built houses In Washington , Oregon, Idaho & northern California.

Its lots of fun building wall panels & trusses on a table inside where its nice & dry when it cold & raining cats & dogs outside or maybe freezing.

Jonathan Szczepanski

09-11-2005, 7:54 PM

Do you think Jonathan raised that wall with the sheeting on it already? I guess I didn't think he did but I may be wrong.

Steve - I sheathed the wall panel before I raised it. I chose to do it his way for two reasons:

1. To square-up the framing.
2. I thought it would be easier to put the sheathing on while the wall was laying down, rather than trying to hold plywood vertically and nail it to the frame.

We lifted the wall in two 15' sections. Three guys was just enough muscle power to get it done.

Bill Lewis

09-12-2005, 6:26 AM

We lifted the wall in two 15' sections. Three guys was just enough muscle power to get it done.

Jonathan,

Maybe that'll be 4 guys the next time around. Sorry I couldn't make it this time. Due to a computer problem, I didn't get your email until it was too late. Keep me on the list.

Jonathan Szczepanski

09-12-2005, 8:05 AM

Jonathan, Maybe that'll be 4 guys the next time around. ...Keep me on the list.

Bill -

No problem. The next wall is the North wall. This one I need to frame for windows. With the additional weight of the headers and jack studs, a fourth person would be helpful.

Jonathan Szczepanski

09-12-2005, 9:21 PM

I assume you have a number of 16' 2x4 braces on the wall South side because that is one big target for wind....PS. you can see my pile of sticks here. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Shop%20Photos/Twostorypileofsticks9-13-82.jpg

Steve - I hear you on the bracing.

On my drive home today, the weather report said that we might get some gusts on Wednesday from the remnants of Tropical Storm Ophelia. Based on that, and some urging from people such as you, I have added additional bracing to the South Wall. I had fun putting it up once, but I'd rather not do it again.

By the way, Your shop looks nice and big. Keep on keepin' on.

Steve Stube

09-12-2005, 10:47 PM

Jonathan, better safe than redoing it. I bet that was a challenge putting it up even with 3 on a section. I saw a pile of lumber on site in the photos - might as well make use of it just in case you do get a blow.

By the way, Your shop looks nice and big.

Thanks, here is my Pile of Sticks with skin;
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Shop%20Photos/StevesShopreduced3.jpg

Richard Blaine

09-13-2005, 1:08 AM

Having still not recevied the returned $3900 from Fred Graziano, I called him again on my way home yesterday.

...

Just what I need, more problems.

This situation is exactly why I never pay for work before it's done. (On a large job that may entail milestone payments, but never pay for more than the work completed.) And I know that a lot of contractors will hen-peck you to try to get money before completion of a stage, but you just have to hold your ground.

We did a major remodel a few years ago, and I was getting the weeping of "I need to pay my subs." I re-looked at our payment schedule and couldn't figure out why there was a problem paying the subs in a timely manner.

In fact, this guy was using my payments to pay subs from previous jobs because he hadn't kept current with them He was taking my payments and using them to stave off the collectors from those jobs instead of paying the people who worked on my house. On a couple of his progress payments, I had to hold back money to directly pay subs that were threatening action against me.

He went bankrupt towards the end of the job, and I used a clause in the contract to void it if he declared bankruptcy. Because I had not been fronting him money prior to work, I had enough to finish the job.

Having said that, I do hope you are making progress on getting repaid.

Jonathan Szczepanski

09-13-2005, 4:15 PM

...I do hope you are making progress on getting repaid.

Richard - I have learned my lesson. I will have a specific payment schedule that matches milestones in the contract. In fact, with the second contractor that I hired to finish the job, I explicitly put in a late clause. If it wasn't completed by a specific date, there would be a 10% charge for every week he was late. Needless to say I did not need to execute that clause.

I just went to the County Civil suit department and picked up the paper work to file a small clamis suit against Mr. Graziano.

Jonathan Szczepanski

09-13-2005, 9:54 PM

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2005_09_13_a.jpg (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php)
Here is a picture of the extra bracing.

Jonathan Szczepanski

09-18-2005, 9:15 PM

This was a BIG weekend.

On Saturday my family came over and we got up the West wall. On Sunday three friends - including fellow Creeker Bill Lewis - came over and we got the North wall. Three walls up, and one to go.

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2005_09_18_h.jpg (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php)

Steve Stube

09-26-2005, 3:30 AM

Jonathan. looking good, I see you have the forth wall in place.

Bill Lewis

09-26-2005, 7:01 AM

Rumor has it that he was planning on building that fourth wall this past weekend. I got the email invite, but couldn't make it this time. I hope it worked out.

Jonathan Szczepanski

09-26-2005, 8:02 AM

Jonathan. looking good, I see you have the forth wall in place.

Steve - The fourth wall IS up! I had two friends come over on Saturday to help me out with the last wall. My wife also helped when the little one was sleeping. I built this wall in three sub-assemblies. One for each door and then one for the middle section. I still need to add some sheathing to the last section.

This weekend I am going to try and finish the drainage. I want to get that done, plus I need to wait until I can get the money for the next floor.

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2005_09_24_g.jpg See all of the photos. (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php)

Jonathan Szczepanski

10-10-2005, 7:51 PM

This past week I had 6 yards of gravel delivered to the house. My wife managed to sweet talk the guy into dumping the gravel right in front of my shop instead of 200 feet away at the road.

On Sunday I had some friends come over and helped me shovel the gravel into the drainage ditch. We managed to do it all in about two hours. I still need about another yard or two to finish up, but the bulk of the work is done.

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2005_10_09_a.jpg See more photos (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php)

Jonathan Szczepanski

10-24-2005, 7:54 AM

On Sunday my wife Alice and I finished the sheathing while our little one napped. With the sheathing done I can now start working on the second floor. I'm not looking forward to carrying 31 2x12x20', but every reward has its price I guess. I also need to figure out how to get them up to the top of the wall. Any ideas?

If you had to do it yourself, because I might, how would you get a 2x12x20' up nine feet in the air without killing yourself? I have a friend who is into boats, so he has some block and tackle. I might ask him his thoughts on it.

Here is a photo of the finished first floor framing.

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/2005_10_23_d.jpg

Kelly C. Hanna

10-24-2005, 8:04 AM

First of all, congrats on the sheathing! The shop is lookin' good. I move beams like this all the time....better with two people, but you can do it. I pick up one end and 'walk it' over my head until I get close to halfway into it, then let it pivot down onto my shoulder (remember to alternate shoulders!!). Then you can carry them without killing yourself. Then you can easily hoist the one end up onto the plate on one side. From there you pick up the other end walk it up the ladder to rest it on the other plate. I can't tell you how many of these I have done this way...there is no better way outside of hiring help.

Jonathan Szczepanski

10-24-2005, 8:31 AM

...there is no better way outside of hiring help.
Kelly -

Thanks. I think I understand and it seems pretty simple. Sometimes the best way is the simple way.

Now, where did I put that Ben-Gay...

:)

Jonathan
============================

Kelly C. Hanna

10-24-2005, 8:51 AM

Be sure to get in a hot tub of water & soak for a few minutes before applying (I use Icy Hot)...makes it much more effective...:D

Jonathan Szczepanski

11-06-2005, 9:15 PM

This past weekend my friend and my wife helped me put up the joists.

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2005_11_06_b.jpg (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php)

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2005_11_05_d.jpg (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php)
See all of the photos (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php)

Tyler Howell

11-07-2005, 8:24 AM

Great Job Joathon but you're going to have to step it up here and get a roof on that place:D :D .
Looking good with good help too. No rush from me (6 years on a kitchen project) Nice job.;)

Jonathan Szczepanski

11-07-2005, 8:46 AM

Great Job Joathon but you're going to have to step it up here and get a roof on that place:D :D .
Looking good with good help too. No rush from me (6 years on a kitchen project) Nice job.;)
Thanks Tyler -

I am in a rush to get the rook finished before the first snow, which in the D.C. area will likele be the first half of December. Now I am at the year mark since handing over the first payment to the original foundation guy. I am still waiting to hear back from the district court house on my lawsuit against him.

Tyler Howell

11-07-2005, 9:17 AM

PS That's really cool how you click on one pix and get the whole photo album to pop up.

Good luck with the suit. I hate that stuff.

Frank Pellow

11-07-2005, 9:52 AM

I glanced at all the pictures you referenced Jonathan. It looks like you have some great helpers there. And, most importantly, the building looks well contructed. I wish you luck getting it closed in in time, but please don't rush things so that the quality of the building suffers.

Jonathan Szczepanski

11-07-2005, 10:01 AM

I wish you luck getting it closed in in time, but please don't rush things so that the quality of the building suffers.
Frank -

Thanks again. Don't worry I won't rush and screw it up. I only want to do this once. Maybe twice in another 20 years. :-)

Jonathan Szczepanski

12-12-2005, 10:51 AM

I haven't posted any progress in the last month, but it is not because of a lack of progress. I have completed a couple of things since my last posting:

1. Joists and blocking are done.
2. Second floor decking is glued and nailed
3. Ridge beam is up and ready for rafters.
4. I have a date to take my original foundation contractor to court.

Unfortunately it has snowed, so I missed another goal, but oh well.

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2005_11_12_a.jpg (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php#20051112)

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2005_12_03_b.jpg (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php#20051203)

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2005_12_10_g.jpg (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php#20051210)

See All of the Photos (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php)

Read the entire journal entry. (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/archive.php)

Michael Gabbay

12-12-2005, 11:29 AM

Johnathan - That is great progress. Hopefully the weather will hold up and you can get the roof on. We seemed to be getting too much snow too soon! :)

Mike

Jonathan Szczepanski

12-12-2005, 11:37 AM

Johnathan - That is great progress. Hopefully the weather will hold up and you can get the roof on. We seemed to be getting too much snow too soon! :)

Mike
Mike -

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the storm that is expected on Wed/Thur blows by us, but I don't think I can rely on luck. I bought some extra plastic to try and tent the shop. I can't just cover the floor like I did before, because the temporary framing for the ridge beam is in the way.

Jonathan Szczepanski

12-15-2005, 5:15 AM

In 25 degree weather, Alice and I tented the shop last night, because the weathermen are calling for the dreaded "wintery Mix" on Thursday. To do this, I bought some spring clamps and some more plastic. We cut the plastic into two long sheets 20x35. We then used the spring clamps to affix the one long edge of the plastic to the ridge beam. We then put more spring clamps on the other long end. These clamps are acting as weights. We then tossed the loose end over the sides of the shop. Lastly, we took some plastic that was already cut from before and placed it as much as we could to protect the ends of the shop from rain/snow/sleet.
http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2005_12_13_a.jpg (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php#20051213)

Jonathan Szczepanski

12-29-2005, 8:10 PM

I got a quarter of the rafters up on Wednesday. I followed the formula in my book to find out how long the rafter needs to be, but it just didn't work. Solving for triangle, I measured the height or the roof first from the deck, but that didn't work. I then tried measuring the height of the triangle from the top plate, but that still didn't work. Lastly I tried the subtracting the height of the bird's mouth cut from the height of the traingle, and that still didn't work. I just went to a trial and error method, and I finally got a template that would work. There were small adjustments that needed to be for the different rafter placements, but it wasn't too much additional work. Measure twice... cut once.

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2005_12_28_e.jpg (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php)

See all of the photos (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php)

Jonathan Szczepanski

01-09-2006, 8:34 AM

I finished installing the rest of the rafters this weekend. The installation kept getting easier as I went through it, and I only had a few mistakes that were easily fixed. I did manage to ruin five rafters in all. I went through three in making the first template, I messed up a cut on a fourth rafter, and the fifth one was a bad board. It split straight down the middle. I'm actaully glad that happened. I wouldn't have wanted a rafter that could give way at any moment.

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2006_01_08_a.jpg (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/2006_01_08_a.jpg) http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2006_01_08_b.jpg (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/2006_01_08_b.jpg)

Tyler Howell

01-09-2006, 9:45 AM

Coming right along Jonathan.Keep er going!:cool:

Frank Pellow

01-09-2006, 9:52 AM

It's good to have that job finished Jonathan.

When I was building my shop, it also took me a few attempts to get the right template for my rafters. I can't remember how many boards I "ruined", but I do know that, later on, I did find uses for all the those boards.

Jonathan Szczepanski

01-09-2006, 10:54 AM

I can't remember how many boards I "ruined", but I do know that, later on, I did find uses for all the those boards.
Frank -

I think I am going to use the scrap rafters for my stairs. I am also going to use the 2x6 temporary ridge beam bracing for the rafter blocking. As I told my wife, "This isn't trash. It's still good. Now keep pulling out those nails." :D

Bill Lewis

01-09-2006, 11:45 AM

As I told my wife, "This isn't trash. It's still good. Now keep pulling out those nails." :DBTDT!:) I have to say I've become the master of minimal material useage when it comes to framing projects. Not like those framers who build houses, they throw away or burn lots of good stuff. Good re-useage on the 2x12's for the stairs, but you really have to do your math for stairs DAMHIK.

Jonathan Szczepanski

01-16-2006, 11:11 PM

This past weekend, my friend Jon came over and he helped me install rafter blocking at the ridge beam and at the top plates. This past weekend we had some rain with some very windy conditions. There were sustained winds of 30+ mph. Needless to say, the plastic that was covering the shop was ripped to shreds. Tonight, the wife and I put up some new plastic. Hopefully this round will last longer.

Steve Stube

01-17-2006, 3:06 AM

Well you are making progress despite the poor weather conditions. If you can't get your roof sheeting and felt on soon maybe some Tyvek and lath instead of the poly would weather a little better (tear resistant). I wish I could be more help but it's a long commute.

Jonathan Szczepanski

01-17-2006, 7:31 AM

Tyvek and lath instead of the poly would weather a little better (tear resistant).
Steve -

Your Tyvek and lath conecpt is intriguing. Exactly how would it work?

Jonathan Szczepanski

01-31-2006, 2:56 PM

Hey creekers...

This past weekend I started on the west gable end wall. I only got up a couple of studs, but the wife put on some of the hurricane clips. I also managed to get a couple of books (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/references.php#books) to help edu-macate myself better. The one that I wished I had earlier was "Working Alone: Tips and Techniques for Solo Building". The author has so many good ideas.

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2006_01_29_a.jpg (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php)

Rob Russell

01-31-2006, 3:04 PM

Jonathan,

I'm curious - do you have collar ties on your rafters? I didn't see any in there - maybe your design doesn't need them.

Rob

Bill Lewis

01-31-2006, 3:13 PM

Jonathan,
I was wondering and expecting to hear an update from you. We've had some decent building weather lately. Except for the wind, the temps haven't been too bad.

That book sounds like something I should have read a long time ago.

Jonathan Szczepanski

01-31-2006, 3:45 PM

I'm curious - do you have collar ties on your rafters? I didn't see any in there - maybe your design doesn't need them.

Rob
Rob -

I am not utilizing collar ties. I have connected the rafters directly into the floor joists at the top plate. Connecting the rafters to the floor joists stops the rafters from spreading, which is what the collar ties are meant to do, so there really isn't a need for them. I chose to do this because, I wanted to preserve as much headroom as I could on the second floor.

Jonathan Szczepanski

01-31-2006, 3:49 PM

Jonathan,
I was wondering and expecting to hear an update from you. We've had some decent building weather lately. Except for the wind, the temps haven't been too bad.
Bill -

I wish I could have taken advantage of the weather more, but with the Isabel crawling now, my workshop time is becoming family time - and I don't mind. I enjoy watching her exploring things.

The wind as been a bit of a bear lately. I am now on my third generation of platic covering. It has been working out so far, but today they are calling for gusts up to 40. Woohoo! :-)

Kelly C. Hanna

01-31-2006, 8:12 PM

Bill Lewis

02-01-2006, 6:13 AM

Bill -

I wish I could have taken advantage of the weather more, but with the Isabel crawling now, my workshop time is becoming family time - and I don't mind. I enjoy watching her exploring things.Just think, in no time at all she'll be out in the shop helping you out.

Now here is what I know about collar ties. Collar ties are to placed to restrict the spread of the roof. When used, they need to be a minimum of one third of the vertical distance of the rafter height from the peak. They can be lower than that. Your floor joist system is essentially a collar tie system, so your collar ties are just at the bottom of the rafters instead of the top. Also, minimum spacing for collar ties are 48" and since you're at 12" OC I think you've got that covered. I went round and round the collar tie subject on my last house with the county design people, and the architect.

Kelly, Rather than building his roof system on top of the floor, which is more typical, Jonathan built his floor system on top of his collar ties. It's differnt, but it works and meets the collar tie requirements. I hope this explains it better.

Lastly, collar ties are not required if the appropriate ridge pole (beam) is used with the appropriate supports at the ends. This means that a beam must be sized to span the length of the roof, and have a load path to the foundation.

I don't know if I asked you this in the past, but did you consider putting any dormers in to the second floor? You get a lot more usable floor space with dormers, and they wouldn't impact your height restrictions. The cost difference in lumber is less than $100.

Rob Russell

02-01-2006, 7:30 AM

Rob -

I am not utilizing collar ties. I have connected the rafters directly into the floor joists at the top plate. Connecting the rafters to the floor joists stops the rafters from spreading, which is what the collar ties are meant to do, so there really isn't a need for them. I chose to do this because, I wanted to preserve as much headroom as I could on the second floor.

I understand how you did it now. I'm aware of what the collar ties are for and was curious as to how you would have prevented the spreading factor without them. Looking at the framing of our house, I don't believe that the rafters were pinned to the second floor ceiling joists, which of course means that we do have collar ties.

Rob

Jonathan Szczepanski

02-01-2006, 7:56 AM

I don't know if I asked you this in the past, but did you consider putting any dormers in to the second floor? You get a lot more usable floor space with dormers, and they wouldn't impact your height restrictions. The cost difference in lumber is less than $100.
Bill -

I considered dormers, but decided to go without them. While I could handle the framing of a dormer, it adds additional complexity to the overall project. I would need to flash, side and shingle the dormer, plus installing another window. All of those additional materials add up, not to mention the additional time. And knowing my desire for the aesthetically pleasing, if I built one, I probably would have built four to balance everything out. :D Four dormers is a lot more time and money.

Since I had never done anything like this before, I decided to keep it simple. I'd rather have an office sooner with less space, then a larger office after another 4+ months. Considering how long this is taking already, I'm glad I'm keeoing it simple.

Jonathan Szczepanski

02-01-2006, 8:06 AM

Jonathan...you should still use the collar ties. Most all rafters are attached to the joists, using collar ties helps to stabilize the weight of the roof at the peak, preventing any rafter saggin'. You can use shorter ones so as not to interfere so much with headroom, but you definitely need them to be there and on at least every other rafter set. Personally, I use them at every single one.
Kelly -

Everything I read about collar ties and rafter/joist connections are a one-or-the-other situation. Both aren't required. Granted, the roof would be stronger with collar ties and a rafter/joist connection, but I don't think it is necessary.

If I were to put in collar ties, the code requires that they be installed a third of the way down from the peak of the roof. I would be worried that if I instelled them higher, the inspector might not pass the framing. Also, if I had collar ties down a third of the way, I would need to get really good at doing the limbo.:D

I think I am going to keep the collar ties out. If the inspector says I need them, they won't be too difficult to add in later.

Jonathan Szczepanski

03-05-2006, 8:41 PM

This past weekend I got the sheathing up on the South wall's second floor, thanks to a couple of friends. I borrowed a block-and-tackle from my sailing friend Bryan. It worked very well. I had my friend Dave work the line, while I climbed on the ladder and nailed it up.

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2006_03_05_a.jpg (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php#20060305)

Jonathan Szczepanski

03-13-2006, 8:24 AM

I finished the second floor sheathing this past weekend with some help from my friends. Once again, we used a block and tackle to lift the sheathing into place. I am so glad I borrowed it. Next on the list is to finish installing the nailers for the roof venting, installing the fascia, and then the ROOF!

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2006_03_11_i.jpg

See all of the photos... (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php)

Frank Pellow

03-13-2006, 9:45 AM

Glad to see that you are still working away at this Jonathan. The building is looking good.

Jonathan Szczepanski

04-10-2006, 9:01 PM

Over the last three weeks I have finished up a lot of small items that need to be completed before I can start the roof sheathing. These included:

-Installing blocking for the wall sheathing
-Installing the spacers for the roof venting
-Finish nailing the sheathing
-Installing the eave's fascia boards

The last thing I need to do before I install the roof sheathing is to install the rake fascia... I think. That is the question I have. Do I need to install the rake fascia before I install the roof sheathing or can it be done afterwards?

Also, if I am going to install vinyl siding, do I install a spacer board in between the wall sheathing and the fascia board to accomodate the thickness of the siding, and allow the fascia board to overlay the siding, or is something else done to make sure water does not run behind the siding? Sorry if I am not explaing this correctly.

tod evans

04-11-2006, 8:06 AM

The last thing I need to do before I install the roof sheathing is to install the rake fascia... I think. That is the question I have. Do I need to install the rake fascia before I install the roof sheathing or can it be done afterwards?

.

jonathan, the drip metal should lay over the fascia so if your decking is fatter than the reveal of the metal the fascia must go on after the decking. if your decking is thiner than the reveal of the metal you can install the fascia first. i didn`t understand your siding question so can`t help, sorry...02 tod

Bill Lewis

04-11-2006, 10:46 AM

Johnathan,
If you use 5/4 trim board (1" thick) you shouldn't need to space out your (flush) rake facia to allow for the vinyl. 5/4 Trim also looks better for corner boards than the vinyl corners, but you still have to use J-channel, and paint them too.

You could also opt to use the Aztec (pvc) trim board which comes in both 5/4 and 1X (3/4" thick) and is totally maintenence free. It's paintable, but also can be left in it's "natural" white finish.

If you need further explanation on what tod is saying, just let me know. Though I'm not a certified Ozark interpreter, I do know what he is saying.:p

Jamie Coffman

04-11-2006, 11:05 AM

Sounds like you've already got a pretty full plate and I can empathize, just started mine. Don't know where you are budget wise but consider insulating your slab and running hydronics. The only thing harder than working on concrete is working on cold concrete. Ditto the remarks on 100a. might even contact your power co. about a seperate service. The power companies are often very enabling to customers who want to become bigger consumers of thier product.

Jonathan Szczepanski

04-11-2006, 9:51 PM

Johnathan,
If you use 5/4 trim board (1" thick) you shouldn't need to space out your (flush) rake facia to allow for the vinyl. 5/4 Trim also looks better for corner boards than the vinyl corners,...

Bill -

If I don't provide a space, then the fascia board won't overlap the siding. If I put the fascia board directly on the sheathing would I need to put a drip edge on the bottom edge of the fascia to stop the water from running along the bottom edge and behind the siding? If I am overthinking this, just say so. I have a tendency to do that.

I think I understand what Tod is saying. Basically, if the drip edge can accomodate the width of the fascia, then I can install the fascia afterwards. Otherwise, I need to install the fascia before the drip edge. Correct?

Bill Lewis

04-12-2006, 6:55 AM

Bill -

If I don't provide a space, then the fascia board won't overlap the siding. This is for sure if you use 3/4" thick facia board. The 5/4 board should provide some overlap. Also you will need to caulk (Butyl, not silicone) the joint between the J-channel and the facia board. However if you plan on using a 3/4" facia board, then yes, you should space it out, but frankly, this is more work (up high), and not really much of a cost savings.

If I put the fascia board directly on the sheathing would I need to put a drip edge on the bottom edge of the fascia to stop the water from running along the bottom edge and behind the siding?See the attached drawing I did. The thicker facia should allow an overlap without adding another drip flashing.

I think I understand what Tod is saying. Basically, if the drip edge can accomodate the width of the fascia, then I can install the fascia afterwards. Otherwise, I need to install the fascia before the drip edge. Correct?Actually tod was referring to the face side of the facia and the edge of the roof sheathing. The drip edge needs to be able to completely cover the edge of the roof sheathing, as shown on the right. However, you are also right, the drip edge needs to be wide engouh to also cover the joint between the two if it is done as shown on the left.

Jonathan Szczepanski

04-12-2006, 1:57 PM

This is for sure if you use 3/4" thick facia board. The 5/4 board should provide some overlap. ... See the attached drawing I did. The thicker facia should allow an overlap without adding another drip flashing.
Bill -

Ahhh. I see. I wasn't thinking that way. I was thinking it needed to "overhang" like I have in the diagrams below. To accomplish that "overhang" I needed a spacer. But your methods don't require the extra step of the spacer.

Overall, It seems like the answer is yes, I can start the roof sheathing without having the rake facia on, no matter which method I use, as long as I provide enough space with the drip edge to accomodate the facia. Thanks!

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/rake_fascia.gif

Greg Sznajdruk

04-12-2006, 4:30 PM

Frank:

You can do the power yourself as long as you have it inspected. HD will sell you a copy of HPEC code book. I just finished poweringhttp://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/Hrihori/66b05c38.jpg my shop.

I was not as ambitious as you are, I purhased a used school portable. It is 24 by 32 steel roof and siding, on the upside it is completely finished on the inside. 100 amp panel, 5/8 drywall double up, suspended ceiling, tile floor and fully insulated. Down side have 3, 5 by 9 blackboards, 36 coat hooks. Why I went this way was over all cost.

I paid $4k for the building, $7k to have it split and trucked from Oshawa to Kingston. This includes setup. Paid $58 for building permit, about $1500 for trenching and counduit as well as power cable, about $100 for inspection.

I have my setup on cottage piers with hurican ties. Soon as weather improves will add the skirt boards.

Now that I'm all setup should have bought two and married them together. Seams no matter how much space you have you will always need more.

Good luck

Greg

Jonathan Szczepanski

04-12-2006, 7:56 PM

I paid $4k for the building, $7k to have it split and trucked from Oshawa to Kingston. This includes setup. Paid $58 for building permit, about $1500 for trenching and counduit as well as power cable, about $100 for inspection.
Greg -

That is a great idea for a shop, especially for the cost. You can use the chalk boards for your cut lists and the hooks to hang your saws :-)

Bill Lewis

04-13-2006, 6:08 AM

Overall, It seems like the answer is yes, I can start the roof sheathing without having the rake facia on, no matter which method I use, as long as I provide enough space with the drip edge to accomodate the facia. Thanks!Johnathan, I was under the assumption that you already had your roof sheathing on. Since you don't I'd recomend building out your rake facia to provide a soffit. This is the way that I prefer to do it, it has a much better look, and also provides better protection from the elements. You do have to extend your roof sheathing over the "ladder frame" for support.

Jonathan Szczepanski

04-22-2006, 3:02 AM

On Wednesday I cam home to find something I didn't like. A "Stop Work" order was placed on my door. Since I hadn't had an inspection in 6 months, my permit has expired. Now, not only can't I work on my shop, but I also have to get my permit renewed. So I have to take a morning off of work, schlep all the way down to the permit office, and go through the process again. Plus I have this big ugly orange sticker on my front door that I can't move or remove. It has to staty there. I've tried to call the inspector for the last two days, but we keep playing phone tag.

yay. whoppee. more problems.

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2006_04_19_b.jpg

Keith Starosta

04-22-2006, 8:39 AM

OUCH! That's not a pretty site to come home to. It'll all get worked out, Jonathan. Keep your head up, and keep plugging away. I only wish that I had the opportunity to build my own dedicated shop.

- Keith

Kelly C. Hanna

04-22-2006, 12:58 PM

Does it say why? I detest inspectors and the power they have to stop a process like yours. Sorry yuou are going through that and hope you get it resolved fast.

Jim Becker

04-22-2006, 1:01 PM

Permits usually have a life span and it's important to remember "when" that is. In my area, they are good for no more than one year. The folks across the street got nailed on that when they chose to deal with their fire damage themselves and hit the one-year mark "faster than they thought"...

Sorry to hear of this issue, Johnathan, but it's pretty much the nature of the beast. I hope you can hook up with the inspector, etc., and get your permit renewed quickly. That orange sign is...umm...too "outstanding", if you know what I mean!

Jonathan Szczepanski

04-22-2006, 2:05 PM

Does it say why?
Kelly -

In my county, the permit is good for two years, and you must have at least one inspection every six months.

The Stop Work order doesn't say why my permit has expired, but I beleive it is because I haven't had an inspection in six months. The next inspection I have to get is the framing inspection. I thought that an expired permit would just prevent me from getting an inspection. I didn't think they would put up a Stop Work order. I only thought that they would do that if I was breaking the law.

Jonathan Szczepanski

05-16-2006, 10:34 PM

I do have some good news to report. I can start working on the shop again. Two Fridays ago, May 5th, I went back to the P.G. County Permits Office and got a new permit. Unforutnately it cost almost twice as much as the original permit, $151 instead of $80. When I asked the woman handling the issuance about the different she said "New codes. Each time there are new codes, the fees go up." But the money did not stop there. I also had to pay a $50 "investigation fee" for my expired permit.

After I got my new permit, I immediately called to schedule a "Lift of Stop Work Order" inspection. An inspector came out on the the 11th and said "So why am I here?" Great. He checked my permit and removed the stop work order. The inspector then stated "You can continue to work on the workshop."

Last Saturday, May 13th, Alice and I started to put on the Typar housewrap around the first floor. I ran out of time to put the wrap on the second floor, but I can finish that off next time. I am just gald that I can work on the shop again.

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2006_05_13_c.jpg

Jonathan Szczepanski

05-22-2006, 8:58 PM

These past three days had a small event, and a large one. On Saturday, the small event occurred. Alice and I managed to cover the East gable end with housewrap. Not a big deal, but another small step to the finish line.

The hardest thing about working on a task like the house wrap, is constantly needing to move the ladder. I will need to have the ladder up high, then low, then on the left, then in the middle. Even though housewrap is light by itself, lugging, lowering and raising the ladder all the time tires me out faster then I would like.

The second event that happen, just occured today. I went to court. As some may have read, I had some problems with my original foundation contractor, Fred Graziano. He never completed the foundation and never returned my second payment. Long story short, I had to take him to court. Today, was the trial.

I showed up at the courthouse, not knowing whether or not Mr. Graziano was going to show up. You see, for small claims court (this might apply to any type of court) the defedent, Mr. Graziano, is supposed to send in an "intent to defend" notice to the court. Once this occurs, the court then notifies the plantiff, me, of the intention. I never recevied a letter from the court stating the Mr. Graziano sent in the intention to defend.

Not wanting to take any chances, I still went to the courthouse. When the judge called my case, I was up at the front by myself, without a defendent. The short version of the story is that the clerk swore me in, the judge asked me to tell my story. The judge listened to my story and asked to see my contract with Mr. Graziano. She then ruled in my favor in the amount of $3900, the amount I was suing for.

Sweet! Of course this was not the last step. Now I need to actually collect on that ruling. Who knew that in this project I would get an education in law as well as construction.

Michael Gabbay

05-23-2006, 9:43 AM

Jonathan -

The shop looks great!

Inspections can be a PITA and a joke. I had to remind my inspector to check the plumbing on my bathroom remodel. He said "oh yeah we only check to see that the hot is on the left" and then he turned on the sink faucet. In the end it's worth the hassle so you can sell the house without those issues.

Good luck collecting from the court award. Did the judge mention what was next to get this guy to pay up? Make sure your fire insurance is up to date for the shop. You never know what he might try.

Now light be a good time to invest in some scaffolding. It will make the wall and ceiling work go a lot faster.

Mike

Jonathan Szczepanski

05-23-2006, 9:57 AM

Did the judge mention what was next to get this guy to pay up?
After the award was rendered, they hand you a book on collecting. Essentially, there are a couple of ways to collect on the judgement.

- He pays me the money outright (highly doubtful though)
- I can garnish his wages or bank account (probably the way I will go)
- Seize his property and auction it off (most expensive and costly)

Before I can do any of these, I have to wait fifteen days. I guess this gives the court time to send out the judgement and to give the defendant time to gather the money.

Tyler Howell

05-23-2006, 10:15 AM

Now let me see:rolleyes: What was the bad guys name again and did he really upset you:confused: :confused: :D .
I hate it when that happens.
Good luck.
I feel your pain.

Jonathan Szczepanski

06-05-2006, 10:16 AM

This past weekend I installed some roof sheathing on the North side of the roof. Instead of starting with the row of sheathing at the eave end, I squared and snapped a line where the second row would start and laid down the second row. This allowed me to install a stop on the line for the sheathing to rest against. This way, I could focus on squaring the sheathing to the roof and not have to worry about the sheathing sliding off of the roof.

Now that I have the rest of the sheathing installed, I can come back and install the first row of sheathing. I plan on mating the first row of sheathing to the bottom edge of the second row, nailing it off, and then cutting the rest that overhangs the eave flush.

A few words about installing the sheathing. The biggest challenge I had this past weekend was just getting the sheathing up onto the roof. At first I thought it was going to be easy. I was going to use the same block and tackle that my friend lent me. I hooked it to the ridge beam and ran the other end down the roof to the eave. I ended up not using the block and tackle, because I just could not get the line to pull effectively. I think it was because of the angle.

When I used the block and tackle to install the second floor sheathing, it was a straight vertical lift. Everthing went smoothly. This time, since it was at and angle, the catch that would stop the line from moving kept holding on to the line, preventing me from being able to move the line.

I then tried holding the sheathing on my back. I was able to walk up the ladder fine, but I could not transfer the plywood from my back to the roof. The only time I tried, I had to give up and let the sheathing fall onto the ground.

The method that worked best for me, was essentially the brute force method. I would lean the sheathing against my ladder, so that it was standing vertically. Then I would lift the sheathing enough so that I could get my hands underneath the sheathing. I would then start to climb the ladder - one hand on pushing the sheathing from the bottom, the other hand holding onto the ladder. I would continue to climb, with the sheathing sliding up the ladder, until I got to a place where I could place the bottom edge of the sheathing onto a lip or a catch. For the first row, I placed some spring clamps on top of the fascia board to act as a catch.

After the sheathing was stable on the catch, I would then continue to climb up the ladder and rotate the sheathing on the rafters until it was in the proper place.

At one point, Alice was able to give me hand on some of the higher pieces - she would slide it up the ladder, and I would muscle it the rest of the way. All in all, it was not too difficult, but it sure was tiring.

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/thumbs/2006_06_04_e.jpg (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/)

See all of the photos (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php#20060604)

Michael Gabbay

06-05-2006, 12:54 PM

Looks great! Hopefully the weather will coninue to be cool so you can make some more ground on the roof.

Mike

Jonathan Szczepanski

06-05-2006, 1:44 PM

Hopefully the weather will coninue to be cool so you can make some more ground on the roof.

Mike
Mike -

Thanks. I am hoping the weather stays cool as well. I get a fair amount of shade, except at around high noon. I'm really exposed to the sun and the heat then.

Kelly C. Hanna

06-05-2006, 9:34 PM

Heaving those sheets up a ladder isn't much fun is it Jonathan? You are making good progress....can't wait to see it finished.

Jonathan Szczepanski

06-05-2006, 10:11 PM

Heaving those sheets up a ladder isn't much fun is it Jonathan? You are making good progress....can't wait to see it finished.
It wasn't too bad. The last row really got me though.

Hey. I could have been worse. I could be making the whole thing out of stone ;-)

Frank Pellow

06-05-2006, 10:17 PM

Jonathan, it's good that you are, at last, working on the roof. Keep up the good work and you will get things finished before your permit expires again. :D

By the way, you method of getting sheeting to the roof is the method that I have always used (on about 20 buildings).

Jonathan Szczepanski

06-06-2007, 10:42 PM

A long time ago...

In a yard just behind my house...

A workshop was being built, and it still is.

Well it has been a while since I have made an update on the site, so here is where everything is:

I have quit my 9-5, and am now freelancing. Part-time web designer and part-time get-my-shop-built-so-I-can-become-a-part-time-furniture-maker-guy.

The shop is coming along:
I have the windows and doors installed;
The electric has been pulled;
An access ladder to the second story has been built;
I have passed Framing and Electical inspection;

I have uploaded plenty of photos (http://www.theworkshopproject.com/photos.php) for everyone to look at, but here is a taste:

http://www.theworkshopproject.com/images/2007_05_25_d.jpg