ANyone using Micro-Jig's GRR-Ripper?

[Nick Sorenson]

I have been trying to get safety setup for my table saw (just got a cabinet saw). I've been ripping on a DeWalt radial since beginning woodworking and have really worked hard to make it safe. So far no kickbacks or accidents. It's been a great saw.

But the table saw is a different concept and I want to make it safe. My saw has no blade guard. It does have a splitter (made one for it). It's an old Walker Turner cabinet saw.

I noticed that the GRR-Ripper is to be used without a guard so I thought maybe it's a good option.

But maybe I'd be better with a guard and push sticks. Curious what others have found using the GRR-Ripper.

[glenn bradley]

This gets asked now and again. I have two as do many folks. I've used them for years. The basic block is good but with the more complete kit you can really do some trick stuff. I think mine are the GR-200's? They seem to go on sale now and again for around $50 or so. Sounds like a lot for a push block but, it is actually a bunch of different push blocks in the space of one. I find them very handy.

[Bruce Page]

Ditto what Glenn said. I also have two and particularly love them for cutting or routing narrow pieces.

[Van Huskey]

Make that three of us.

[Heather Thompson]

I to like the Gripper, have two of them.

Heather

[Victor Robinson]

Have two, love them and use them all the time.

[paul cottingham]

Got two.
Love them.
Use them for everything...routing, cutting, face jointing.

[Dave Gaul]

Get it, use it, you won't regret it!!

I got mine on one of those sales, sat in a box for a few weeks, found the need for it, and it is worth every penny...

I suggest getting the thin guide add on...

[Jacob Mac]

I have two, and when I owned a TS I found them invaluable. But they're not just for a TS. You can use them with a jointer and a shaper/router table too. Good stuff.

[Larry Rasmussen]

I've had two for several years, really a great device and dollar per dollar the potential improvement in narrower rip quality make them fairly priced.

Larry R
Seattle

[lawrence dosson]

nick
i vote for the guard and push block and i have a gripper love it for use on the router table and ripping thin strips but high blade no guard no way there is aftermarket guards for that saw me id own one lawrence

[Prashun Patel]

The GRRipper has it's place. I have one and use it for some narrow cuts. However, you should (IMHO) first spend yr $$ on a replacement blade guard. Something like Sharkguard won't set you too far back, and comes with great Dust collection.

You can make all manner of push blocks and sticks.

The GRRipper is a good thing to have when you have to work with narrow stock. However, I've been trying more and more the discipline myself to use wider stock and cut strips on the left side of the blade with guard in tact.

To each his own.

[Will Overton]

I've never seen anything but pictures of the g ripper. Why does everybody seem to have 2?

[Myk Rian]

Curious what others have found using the GRR-Ripper.
I have 2 of them. They get used all the time. Great to have.
2, because the jointer requires them, if you're going to do it right.

[Bill Huber]

Had one, hated it, sold it fast.

I just did not like it, you have to fool around with it to change it all the time if you want to make different cuts.

For thinn cuts I never make them between the fence and the blade anyway.

[Prashun Patel]

I've never seen anything but pictures of the g ripper. Why does everybody seem to have 2?

On long stock, you can then leapfrog them. It's the safest way to use them.

The irony is that the safest way to use these blocks requires your hand to pass MULTIPLE times over the blade. This skeeves me out to no end every time I use them. I've started using them less and less as my arsenal of alternate push blocks has increased.

[Brian Penning]

Have 1. Don't really use it that much but glad to have it when cutting narrow pieces.

[Steve LaFara]

I got mine right after four new teeth and 13 stitches in my upper lip. Have loved it ever since and wish I'd had it a few weeks sooner.:(

[Steve Rowe]

I have one and don't use it for the table saw since I purchased a slider. I found it useful when I had a cabinet saw but never thought it was a suitable replacment for a guard.

[Damon Stathatos]

...The irony is that the safest way to use these blocks requires your hand to pass MULTIPLE times over the blade. This skeeves me out to no end every time I use them. I've started using them less and less as my arsenal of alternate push blocks has increased.

I've been reluctant to post but you took the words right out of my mouth, especially the 'skeeves' part. Although I can force hands over a spinning jointer head, I just can't get there on a table saw.

I bought one and hardly ever use it. I've had a couple of fairly hairy kick backs (never with the gripper) and it's not something which unfolds slowly. It's an instant explosion and the last place I want my hand is over or near the blade. It's bad enough gasping for air, checking your mid-section for wood 'shrapnel', and uncontrollably screaming obscenities through your dust mask. I'd rather leave the digit checking as the lowest option on the list (and save it for the 'skeeves' I get every time I use the jointer).

In retrospect, the kickbacks I have encountered were because of stupidity and/or laziness. I now 'lock down' every piece of wood with Mag-Switch feather boards, both on the fence and on the table whenever possible (or certainly anytime a 'Gripper' would be appropriate). With the feather boards, I can keep my hands and body further away with the use of conventional push 'sticks'.

At the end of the day, it's whatever you're most comfortable with but with any method, try not to forget that nothing's really foolproof so you're never lulled into a false sense of security because that's when the 'class in session' sign may flash, yet once again.

[Mike Heidrick]

Have one for use on the table saw and love it.

[Brian W Evans]

I have two of these as well and I use them for most table saw cuts. I would get the version with the add-ons because they let you do things that would be difficult/time-consuming to do another way.

I wouldn't hesitate to buy these again. They're worth every penny.

[Nick Sorenson]

... Although I can force hands over a spinning jointer head, I just can't get there on a table saw.

....


I think that's how I feel about it.

[Bob Wingard]

I've been reluctant to post but you took the words right out of my mouth, especially the 'skeeves' part. Although I can force hands over a spinning jointer head, I just can't get there on a table saw.


This is one opinion on machine use/safety that I just cannot comprehend. I use a pair of Grripers all the time, and I feel comfortable using them as per manufacturers recommendations in their video. I have NO problem running my hand 3" above the blade repeatedly .. that's approx. the "comfort margin" of the Grripper .. .. BUT I NEVER run my hands directly over the cutterhead of a jointer with or without Grrippers. I have seen LOTS of cuts and even finger amputations from table saw mishaps .. .. but only one jointer accident .. .. the jointer kicked back the piece of stock .. pulled the guy's fingertips into the gap between the infeed table and the spinning cutterhead .. then removed four fingers and part of his palm before he could react. There was NOTHING to reattach .. his fingers were chopped up in the shavings like hamburger. In retrospect, there is absolutely NO REASON to EVER place your hand directly over a jointer's cutterhead WITH or WITHOUT a Grripper or any other paddle or push block. It is a poor and dangerous technique that doesn't even produce any positive effect on the finished cut. Firm, downward pressure on the stock as it approaches the cutterhead .. then, pressure on the stock/outfeed table after it has passed the cutterhead. NEVER any reason to apply pressure directly over the cutterhead. ALWAYS BEFORE & AFTER.

[Will Overton]

Well, after reading all the responses, I guess I'll have to buy a couple and see how I like them.

Interesting thread.

[glenn bradley]

I've never seen anything but pictures of the g ripper. Why does everybody seem to have 2?

That did strike me as funny. I knew a few of us chose a second one but never realized it was so many. For me; I bought one and found it useful. After paying attention and seeing many of the other ways you could use one that I had not thought of (I guess those dog and pony videos and showmen in their booths are actually worth something:o) I started using it more and more.

When I saw another one on sale I grabbed it as a second one to have a couple setups ready to go. It is also handy to be able to to hand-over-hand on longer operations although I don't know that this would drive me to spend the money alone. The logic of owning two has proved out and I am very glad to have the pair.

I also have the 1/8" plate on one but, I have never felt the need for the handle bridge. You can already position the handle just about anywhere you want it. Can someone who favors the bridge chime in with what I am missing?

20 minutes later . . . . Just thought I would add, it is telling that following this post I went back out to the shop and immediately made four cuts with the Grr-Ripper (one this time).

[Damon Stathatos]

This is one opinion on machine use/safety that I just cannot comprehend...
...In retrospect, there is absolutely NO REASON to EVER place your hand directly over a jointer's cutterhead WITH or WITHOUT a Grripper or any other paddle or push block...
...Firm, downward pressure on the stock as it approaches the cutterhead .. then, pressure on the stock/outfeed table after it has passed the cutterhead. NEVER any reason to apply pressure directly over the cutterhead. ALWAYS BEFORE & AFTER.

Points well taken. This is the proper technique for jointing.

I employ a 'modified' version of this, the proper technique, in that I lighten pressure of any hand (actually, paddle/push block) directly over the cutter head and strengthen the other hand while moving the board through. I never have been able to 'temporarily-one-hand' joint except for smaller, more manageable pieces.

I find that as the stock gets larger (and I move some pretty large, heavy stock) it's not downward pressure with one hand or the other which moves the board, rather lateral pressure, in which case I have no idea how to move the last of the board though without passing a hand over the head.

Also, I have no idea how to square a big heavy piece without passing both hands over the head, but at least in this case, the pressure is against the fence rather than a downward pressure.

[Dan Karachio]

Used both of mine just yesterday on both the TS, including some thin rips (1.5") and jointer. I use them all the time. They do grip well, make a lot of cuts safer and can improve the quality of cuts too. I did realize yesterday that my jointer table was not quite slick enough (or at all) and they barely were able to hold through the first cut. So, there is more to safety than a gadget - keep your surfaces clean and waxed!

[Bob Wingard]

It just dawned on me .. .. .. by "PASSING A HAND DIRECTLY OVER THE CUTTERHEAD" .. I hope everyone here is in agreement that this means pressing down on the stock while passing the hand directly over the cutterhead !! !! !! Obviously (I hope) everyone realizes that if you pass your hand (with or without a Grripper) several inches above a cutterhead, there is no grave danger.

Correct jointing technique NEVER includes downward pressure directly over a cutterhead .. .. always before or after.

[Gary Muto]

I have one, I use it and it feels safer than a push block since it doesn't contact the blade.

[Dave Avery]

Had one, hated it, sold it fast.

I just did not like it, you have to fool around with it to change it all the time if you want to make different cuts.

For thinn cuts I never make them between the fence and the blade anyway.

Me too.....

[Matt Meiser]

I have 2 and like them for many of the reasons mentioned above. One thing I didn't see mentioned is that I think they work better than push sticks for keeping even relatively narrow (say a 1-1/2" face frame) stock against the fence where using a push stick you don't have as much control in that direction. Sure you could use a featherboard, but if you are making a lot of rips, resetting the featherboard for each gets old.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I have 2 of them as well. And 10 fingers. They saved my fingers from a pretty nasty kickback on my router table. Worth every penny IMO. As you can see many opinions on this.