Jim Koepke
09-18-2010, 12:40 AM
This post will be linked at the end of the fettling a plane from junker to jointer thread.
The Stanley #113 is handy for planing curved surfaces. It can be tricky to use but is worth learning if one is going to favor work that isn't always flat.
161648
This plane was having problems with chatter and lateral settings. A look down the blade bed on the frog shows part of the problem. A small ruler placed on the bed stops when it gets to the transition of the frog and sole's dovetail key. The sole of this plane is held in place by a sliding dovetail key.
Before removing the frog, it is a good idea to scribe a line along the bottom of the frog to indicate where metal needs removal.
A single screw holds the frog in place. To remove the frog with the base attached it is easiest if the sole is adjusted to its maximum concave position.
161645
Disassembling the frog is similar to the previous discussion included in Fettling a Plane from Junker to Jointer:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=114373
One difference for this frog is the cast iron handle of the #113 is held onto the frog by two screws. If the frog is to be lapped, you may want the handle in place to bring the tops of the screws down even with the blade bed surface.
Before you remove material from the area of the mouth, consider that it takes a very thin file. It would be a shame to do the disassembly and then find you do not have a file to do the work. It may be possible to adhere coarse sand paper to a thin piece of metal to use instead, but that would likely get old fast. Another option would be to make shims from a business card to move the frog bed forward. Cut the card into strips of about a quarter inch to be placed at the bottom of the frog. If one side needs more shimming than the other, then cut the shims short enough so that it will only have an effect on the one side. Trial and error is the mantra. If much movement is needed, it may also be necessary to place shims at the top of the frog. There is a square land on either side of the frog at the top to rest against the main body.
To file on the mouth, it is easier if the mouth/sole assembly is removed from the main body of the plane. To do this, it is necessary to disconnect the linkage from the sole. Using a punch or a flattened nail. It is not difficult to tell the orientation of the sole by looking at the dovetail key. It is even easier if you use a marker to write "front" and "back" on the sole.
161647
Part of the hinge of the linkage is being supported while the pin is being driven out. What is not seen is that there is also a piece of wood under the main body of the plane to support it.
When both pins are removed, support the plane on a block of wood with the dovetail key off of the edge of the wood. Use a small piece of wood to drive the dovetail key out of the main body by tapping lightly with a hammer.
161650
Notice the orientation of the plane in the picture, the lever arm "gear" is facing up. If the dovetail does not slide out with minimal effort, you would probably be well advised to apply some penetrating oil and let the plane sit while it soaks in.
This being the one and only #113 in my fettling history, I can not say if they are all like this. On the upper left side of the dovetail keyway it appears to be a little bit wider of an opening.
161644
When this was apart, the dovetail and the keyway were both cleaned with a small wire brush and then given a very light coat of oil. This helps a lot in the reassembly and disassembly needed to check the work. It is actually fairly easy to press together. I was able to do the assembly and disassembly with my bare hands after it was cleaned and oiled. When the dovetail is almost all the way across the keyway, there may be a tendency to catch on the opposite side. Some wiggling will help. It is also easier to put the frog on the body with the sole removed. So, have the frog in place while doing the repeated assembly and disassembly to check your progress.
I also cleaned up some of the casting flashing from the main body. while it was easy to access.
161646
When you are satisfied with the work, replace the sole and the linkage pins. The pins can be driven home with a small C-clamp or a vise grip pliers. The pliers were set on the assembly and slowly worked tighter a little bit at a time until the pin is fully home. If the pin is loose, you may want to peen it or squeeze the ends of the hinge to hold it in place.
161649
With the plane reassembled, test it on some flat stock. If the lateral adjustment is off a bit, it may be correctable by loosening the frog screw and tilting the frog away from the side that is cutting heavy.
Smoothing a concave or convex surface is one thing, but this plane is also the natural choice for chamfering the edges of a curved surface.
161643
Also see:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1230575#poststop
For more information on the use of the #113.
jtk
The Stanley #113 is handy for planing curved surfaces. It can be tricky to use but is worth learning if one is going to favor work that isn't always flat.
161648
This plane was having problems with chatter and lateral settings. A look down the blade bed on the frog shows part of the problem. A small ruler placed on the bed stops when it gets to the transition of the frog and sole's dovetail key. The sole of this plane is held in place by a sliding dovetail key.
Before removing the frog, it is a good idea to scribe a line along the bottom of the frog to indicate where metal needs removal.
A single screw holds the frog in place. To remove the frog with the base attached it is easiest if the sole is adjusted to its maximum concave position.
161645
Disassembling the frog is similar to the previous discussion included in Fettling a Plane from Junker to Jointer:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=114373
One difference for this frog is the cast iron handle of the #113 is held onto the frog by two screws. If the frog is to be lapped, you may want the handle in place to bring the tops of the screws down even with the blade bed surface.
Before you remove material from the area of the mouth, consider that it takes a very thin file. It would be a shame to do the disassembly and then find you do not have a file to do the work. It may be possible to adhere coarse sand paper to a thin piece of metal to use instead, but that would likely get old fast. Another option would be to make shims from a business card to move the frog bed forward. Cut the card into strips of about a quarter inch to be placed at the bottom of the frog. If one side needs more shimming than the other, then cut the shims short enough so that it will only have an effect on the one side. Trial and error is the mantra. If much movement is needed, it may also be necessary to place shims at the top of the frog. There is a square land on either side of the frog at the top to rest against the main body.
To file on the mouth, it is easier if the mouth/sole assembly is removed from the main body of the plane. To do this, it is necessary to disconnect the linkage from the sole. Using a punch or a flattened nail. It is not difficult to tell the orientation of the sole by looking at the dovetail key. It is even easier if you use a marker to write "front" and "back" on the sole.
161647
Part of the hinge of the linkage is being supported while the pin is being driven out. What is not seen is that there is also a piece of wood under the main body of the plane to support it.
When both pins are removed, support the plane on a block of wood with the dovetail key off of the edge of the wood. Use a small piece of wood to drive the dovetail key out of the main body by tapping lightly with a hammer.
161650
Notice the orientation of the plane in the picture, the lever arm "gear" is facing up. If the dovetail does not slide out with minimal effort, you would probably be well advised to apply some penetrating oil and let the plane sit while it soaks in.
This being the one and only #113 in my fettling history, I can not say if they are all like this. On the upper left side of the dovetail keyway it appears to be a little bit wider of an opening.
161644
When this was apart, the dovetail and the keyway were both cleaned with a small wire brush and then given a very light coat of oil. This helps a lot in the reassembly and disassembly needed to check the work. It is actually fairly easy to press together. I was able to do the assembly and disassembly with my bare hands after it was cleaned and oiled. When the dovetail is almost all the way across the keyway, there may be a tendency to catch on the opposite side. Some wiggling will help. It is also easier to put the frog on the body with the sole removed. So, have the frog in place while doing the repeated assembly and disassembly to check your progress.
I also cleaned up some of the casting flashing from the main body. while it was easy to access.
161646
When you are satisfied with the work, replace the sole and the linkage pins. The pins can be driven home with a small C-clamp or a vise grip pliers. The pliers were set on the assembly and slowly worked tighter a little bit at a time until the pin is fully home. If the pin is loose, you may want to peen it or squeeze the ends of the hinge to hold it in place.
161649
With the plane reassembled, test it on some flat stock. If the lateral adjustment is off a bit, it may be correctable by loosening the frog screw and tilting the frog away from the side that is cutting heavy.
Smoothing a concave or convex surface is one thing, but this plane is also the natural choice for chamfering the edges of a curved surface.
161643
Also see:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1230575#poststop
For more information on the use of the #113.
jtk