Why does anyone buy a router lift?

[Dan Friedrichs]

Seeing some deals in the D&D forum on router lifts, I was tempted to buy one to replace my router-screwed-to-plywood excuse for a router table.

Then I started reading some old threads. With routers like the Triton MOF001C, which have above-table height adjustment and bit changes, what advantages does a router lift give?

A good lift costs $200, and a good 2+HP router is probably at least another $200-300. What makes that setup any better than something like the Triton, which only costs $200?

The only disadvantage I read about was that the Triton model requires a reach under the table to flip a height lock/unlock lever. Is there anything else? :confused:

[Mike Henderson]

I lived for a long time with my PC 890 in a table using the fixed base for adjustments. I'd reach under the table to make adjustments. Worked fine.

Just recently, I bought one of the JessEm lifts at 50% off. While it's not light years better than what I had, I do like it and feel it was worth the $120 or so that I paid for it.

But if I hadn't been able to get the 50% off deal, I'd still be happy with what I had. I don't see any difference in my work but it's just a tiny bit easier to make adjustments with the JessEm than with what I had.

Mike

[The big difference between the JessEm and the 890 is that you have to lock the 890 after you make an adjustment (and unlock it initially, of course). With the JessEm you just adjust and go. No locking and unlocking. For someone on a budget, the fixed base is definitely the way to go. For a few dollars (on sale) you can buy some convenience.]

[Louis Brandt]

I have the same question. I have a Bosch 1617EVSPK, and although I've never used it in a table yet, it supposedly has an above-the-table depth adjustment. So what is the advantage of a router lift, and since they are so expensive, is it better than simply using a router that has an above-the-table adjustment?

[Chris Tsutsui]

I have the 3-1/4HP PC VS router that has no above table adjustment. Thus I wouldn't want to bend over and fiddle with it inside my RT cabinet.

The Jessem works great, and I don't really have a good back so it saves me from bending over to make adjustments.

I ended up getting the older Jessem model that has more aluminum in it than the new version. Seems like the new model saves on materials while the old version involved less machining and more material.

[Philip Rodriquez]

Dan,
I've used several setups and I currently have a Triton. As you can guess, it is just about ease. I think router lifts got their start because router bases were not easy to adjust when mounted under a table.

If you live in my area (Arapahoe an E-470), you are more than welcome to check it out.

[Will Overton]

The routers with the above table adjustments are getting better. If you have one in mind that lets you adjust the height, lock the motor in the base and do above router bit changes, that might be all you need. Without the ability to do all three above the table, you now have a reason to get a lift ... the reason being convenience.

In addition, some lifts are geared for more accurate height adjustments as a full turn of the wheel or knob adjusts the height in smaller increments.

[james bell]

for years i had a scrap piece of corian on top of a 2x4 base with the router screwed to the corian. did a couple kitchens with raised panel doors, and it worked well, especially if you could do all rails/stiles and panels at one time. And even then, the adjustment was tediuos.

I finally purchased a jessem table with lift and life is so much better. very easy to adjust and makes routing fun. never thought i would spend that much money on just a 'table', that is, not a tool but worth every penny.

[Alan Schaffter]

Frankly it is a convenience, ease and speed issue for me since my router did not have above the table adjustment. But I didn't fully appreciate my lift until I added a motor to the leadscrew.

With the exception of the Woodpeckers Quicklift, then the V2, and now to some extent the Sidewinder, most if not all lifts and above table adjustable routers required a lot of cranking to raise the collet high enough to change the bit from above the table. That is especially true for lifts with fine, 32 TPI leadscrews- they require 32 turns of the crank to raise the router 1", and that may not be high enough to change bits. Now with my motor, I never use the crank anymore, not even to set bit height. I just hold or tap a paddle switch to run it up or set it.

[glenn bradley]

Why would anyone want electric aide mirrors on their car? You can just roll the window down, lean over and adjust it, lean back, lean over and adjust it some more, etc. No worries.

Seriously, depending on the lift and its capabilities there are varying benefits. I ran without one for quite awhile. The lift I have now automatically unlocks and locks the carriage when height adjusting, has enough travel to handle any bit length and an opening that will take 3-9/16" diameter monsters if required. A wide array of metal throat rings allow me to tune the dust capture vs. support ratios for a wide variety of materials and sizes.

Blah, blah, blah :D. Basically I only open the lower door to change speeds for large bits. I find the convenience nice (just like those electric mirrors) and the repeatability takes the sting out of the occasional re-setups for tasks I thought I was done with :). Do you have to have one? No. Is a quality unit a joy to work with? You bet.

P.s. When I got my lift, routers with above the table features were in their infancy and so-so at best. There's a new breed now.

[Dan Friedrichs]

For clarification, I'm already sold on the need for above-table adjustment. Clearly that is a major improvement over a fixed-base router screwed to a sheet of plywood.

I'm specifically curious if router lifts offer any advantage over a modern router with above-table adjustments. At present, the only downside I am aware of is the potential need to lock/unlock the plunge mechanism from below the table. Considering that many routers with above-table adjustment are half or 1/3 the cost of a lift+router combination, I can live with that.

[Neil Brooks]

At present, the only downside I am aware of is the potential need to lock/unlock the plunge mechanism from below the table.

Bingo.

My Milwaukee is a BEAST of a table router, but ... though it DOES have an over-the-table height adjustment, I still have to disassemble my table, slightly, to lock the plunge mechanism down.

A lift IS on my short list of upgrades ... for that reason, and that reason only.

But ... it's a big reason that would eliminate a very minor inconvenience.

And ... frankly ... I'm worth it ;)

[Will Overton]

Basically I only open the lower door to change speeds for large bits.

How gauche :p






















http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd75/Bill_de/router-1.jpg?t=1284764202

[Chris Padilla]

Dan,

I'd proffer that the lifters are more fine-tuned? In other words, with my PRL and 32 tpi threads, I can nudge the height just a skotch (0.001 mil???) if I need it...and I've needed it! :) I dunno if the routers w/above-table adjustments can fine tune like that.

[Van Huskey]

Dan,

I'd proffer that the lifters are more fine-tuned? In other words, with my PRL and 32 tpi threads, I can nudge the height just a skotch (0.001 mil???) if I need it...and I've needed it! :) I dunno if the routers w/above-table adjustments can fine tune like that.


This is the real rubber meets the road issue. A router lift gives you a level of control that you can't dream of with an up-side down plunger. The difference is very significant, whether it is worth $200 or $300 is a matter for you to answer.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Ah, ok - I buy that. For comparison, the big Freud claims that the above-table adjustment is accurate to 1/128".

Although unlike Chris, I've never needed to move a bit by 25 nanometers :D

[mreza Salav]

I have just ordered a lift and for me the main reason was: with the lock/unlock mechanism of the fixed base routers I could never get the height at the level I wanted as always during the locking it would move just a bit to make that rail/stile fit not perfect.

[glenn bradley]

how gauche :p

:d:d:d:d:d:d:d

[Van Huskey]

Ah, ok - I buy that. For comparison, the big Freud claims that the above-table adjustment is accurate to 1/128".

Although unlike Chris, I've never needed to move a bit by 25 nanometers :D


That isn't the whole story, it is the sticktion and backlash that is what makes the biggest difference.

In reality the only way you can understand fully is to use both.

Just ask the question home many people with a good lift and motor would trade it for the Freud or Triton AND the extra money they paid for the lft/motor. I suggest very few if any would go back.

[Jim O'Dell]

I went from an B&D router, probably 1.25 hp, I won in a contest from Technics/Panasonic back in the 80s, with a 30.00 B&D metal router "table" (about 12 X 20). You could barely make adjustments in the 1/8" range. I built the cabinet doors at the previous house using it, but it was an effort I didn't want to repeat. I also have the original PRL with the 32 pitch. With a bent wrench, raising the bit for changes isn't too bad since you don't have to go all the way up. But the PRL v2 is a very nice improvement. Just wish it was gold instead of silver!!! I've got to keep the color coordination thing going you know!!! Silver would just be too much of a clash on my mostly green laminate with the Incra fence!!! :D:D:D
Oh, by the way...I still have that B&D router and the table sitting in the shop. It's fun to remember where I started! ;) Jim.

[Gary Pennington]

I have a Freud 1702VECK, paid around $160 new with both fixed and plunge bases. It mounts in a table with the fixed base and is adjustable from above. One tool locks and unlocks the elevation, raises and lowers the router AND locks and unlocks the spindle for bit changes.

Is it super fast or adjustable to .001? No. Is it easy to work with and inexpensive? You bet. I do have to fiddle a bit to get bits set exactly right, but at my level of skill(?) and the type of work I'm doing it's a perfect piece.

Gary

[Neil Brooks]

By the way....

Woodpecker is closing out the current model of PRL, at $130 off of the usual price.

I just ordered one, for my Milwaukee 5625-20. With luck ... in a month ... I'll post whether or not I feel it was money well spent :)

[Jeremy Greiner]

I'm specifically curious if router lifts offer any advantage over a modern router with above-table adjustments.
Router lifts also generally allow for above the table bit changes, my milwaukee does not. I can adjust the height from above the table, I just can't bring it high enough to replace the bit from above the table.

I'm just getting started into woodworking, and I found that this should work great for a while, but for a cabinet doors or other projects that require multiple router bit changes I could see the advantage of above the table bit changing.

-jeremy

[Matt Armstrong]

I have a milwaukee 5625. the "above the table" built-in height adjustment is garbage. It's like 3 TPI or something horrible. Plus, loosening the clamp introduces error into the equation anyway so it's always guess-and-check. It's really not even a poor substitute for a router lift, in my opinion. I lament it every time i have to change bits, as well.

[Guy Roland]

My router table was an old butcher block dishwasher top that I built legs for. I used it for years without a problem. Last year I achieved a lifelong wish, I purchased a quality tablesaw on craigslist ( from a fellow Creeker ) It came with several options. One was a built in router lift. (http://www.jointech.com/smartliftdigital.htm ). Over the past year doing a house full of oak trim I found it an amazing time saver. Any cut I knew I was going to replicate I just saved the #s and was able to redo without any test piece. Whether the one I have is better or worse than any other brand or style I don't know, what I do know is I would not do without it now.[/URL][URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-6ph7NWoBM"] (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-6ph7NWoBM)

[Don Bullock]

Dan, if you're careful with your shopping you can get a lift and router motor for about the same price as as an as a good plunge router. I did just that this summer. Rockler had their FX (actually a Jessem lift) and a PC 980 router motor on a special deal. I don't remember the actual price, but it was less than most of the plunge routers with above-table height adjustment and bit changes.

[pat warner]

"Is there anything else?"

Routerlifts, any merit?
Yes, but at a disproportionate expense, often priced higher than the router they lift up & down. No need to stoop again to change cutters or depth; shaper convenience to be sure. Continuously adjustable, substantial up/down travel (far more than any router), sometimes with near zero backlash.
Installation not necessarily trivial. Bench dog in photo (http://patwarner.com/images/bdpwf.jpg), a major undertaking; window installation easier. The castings and hardware are heavy; expect to stress your table top for the extra weight. Newer routers are being designed with lift features, PC 890 for example.

Would not discount various work-around strategies for x & y cutting deth changes. Such as thin replaceable lifts (http://patwarner.com/images/first_cut.jpg) to pick the work up in stages.
Or similar spacers to change the space between the work & the fence, something the lifts can't address.