Link belt upgrade

[Trent Shirley]

I am thinking about upgrading the belt on my TS. I got a lot of startup and shutdown vibration and a fair amount when running.

Any opinions on the Harbor Freight link belt vs other sellers? The Harbor Freight belt seems to be a lot less expensive at $24.99 for 5'.

They say you can change the belt without having to re-adjust anything but it seems to me that if you had the belt loose enough to be able to stretch and pull it over the pulleys it might just be loose enough to slip.
My TS is not a problem as it just uses the motor weight for tension but it would be a different story if I decided to upgrade my jointer with a fixed position motor and I would then have to re-align the pulleys as the motor mount is not that hot.

Thoughts?

[Dave Gaul]

I don't know about the HF link belt, but I just recently upgraded my jointer belt to a Power Twist 1/2" belt.. 4' was $25 on special from woodcraft, currenlty at $32 for 4' there. The belt is plenty tight, but you can still take it off the pulley just like you would a normal belt. The power twist came with specific instructions for installation... the belt is supposed to be a link or two shorter than your stock belt, it was pretty tought to get the belt on the pulleys, but once on and fired up, the difference is immediately apparent...

[Dan Friedrichs]

I got a cogged V-belt to replace the stock belt on my TS. It was, like, $4. Totally fixed my vibration problems, so maybe consider that instead of the link belt.

[Lee Schierer]

I can' speak for the HF ink belting, but I like the link belt on my TS, it cut way down on the vibration. The links do "work in" a bit when they are first used so it is a good idea to make the belt a link or two shorter than the belt it replaces. Link belts are also directional. If you put one on backwards, it will work but makes a loud siren like noise running backwards.

[Steve Peterson]

The HF link belt used to be the same brand that you can find at the other places. Made in the USA and identical except for the price. Not sure if this is still the case.

Steve

[Thomas Hotchkin]

Trent, I put the HF link belt on BS did not help at all, returned it the next day. Tom

[Trent Shirley]

That is an interesting thought and certainly cheaper. I would think you could still be susceptible to vibration but at a reduced amount since the cogs will allow for more flexibility. In the end alot comes down to the materials used and how much they stiffen when not in use.


I got a cogged V-belt to replace the stock belt on my TS. It was, like, $4. Totally fixed my vibration problems, so maybe consider that instead of the link belt.

[Trent Shirley]

Trent, I put the HF link belt on BS did not help at all, returned it the next day. Tom

Have you since tried any other link belts?
There could be other reasons for vibration that the belt would not solve. Mis-aligned pulleys would cause you trouble for sure. Other possible causes such as bearings or bent motor shafts are less likely but far worse if true.

[Josiah Bartlett]

I use the HF link belt on a couple of machines. It works great, and the last one I bought (about a year ago) was US made. It stands up just fine to the monster 3 HP R/I motor on my bandsaw.

[Gerald Senburn]

I tried a link belt from WoodCraft on a bandsaw and a jointer. The only difference I found was the link belt was a heck of a lot louder. Total waste of money.

[Kevin Womer]

I used to have a Jet contractor, tried the link belt first and it did help, but then got the replacement pulleys from Woodcraft in a kit and together made a sigifcant difference in vibration.

[Rod Sheridan]

I am thinking about upgrading the belt on my TS. I got a lot of startup and shutdown vibration and a fair amount when running.

Any opinions on the Harbor Freight link belt vs other sellers? The Harbor Freight belt seems to be a lot less expensive at $24.99 for 5'.

They say you can change the belt without having to re-adjust anything but it seems to me that if you had the belt loose enough to be able to stretch and pull it over the pulleys it might just be loose enough to slip.
My TS is not a problem as it just uses the motor weight for tension but it would be a different story if I decided to upgrade my jointer with a fixed position motor and I would then have to re-align the pulleys as the motor mount is not that hot.

Thoughts?

Hi, you're making an assumption that the problem is the belt.

It may be, however it may also be a bent arbour,bad bearings, loose, poorly machined or worn pulleys.

I would check and correct everything and then go buy a good quality V belt, before I put a link belt on anything.

Regards, Rod.

[Jeff Monson]

Hi, you're making an assumption that the problem is the belt.

It may be, however it may also be a bent arbour,bad bearings, loose, poorly machined or worn pulleys.

I would check and correct everything and then go buy a good quality V belt, before I put a link belt on anything.

Regards, Rod.

I totally agree with Rod, a good check over of bearings, pulleys and arbor would be my 1st action. A "good amount of vibration when running" indicates to me there is something other than a belt to blame. On the other hand I originally had a delta contractor table saw that I did intall a link belt on, yes it did help with vibration...but only on startup and shutdown.

[glenn bradley]

I have some HF link belt but haven't used it yet. It looks OK. I got a lot of the Link-Belt brand for the same price when on sale once upon a time. If you are going to change your belt I would take advantage of the opportunity to check my pulley alignment while I was at it.

Speaking of pulleys, I haven't had a contractor saw for awhile but, when I did, the belt made quite a difference but, not as much as the belt combined with the machined pulleys. I am a fan and run link belts on both my bandsaws, jointer, DP and anything else that I can.

[Josiah Bartlett]

Speaking of pulleys, I haven't had a contractor saw for awhile but, when I did, the belt made quite a difference but, not as much as the belt combined with the machined pulleys. I am a fan and run link belts on both my bandsaws, jointer, DP and anything else that I can.


One of my major complaints about contractor saws and bandsaws is that the belts are usually fairly long. This moves the natural vibration frequency of the belt to lower frequencies, where the mass of the machine can't damp them out. The belt can really flap around. I find that link belts tend to have much less ability to flap.

[glenn bradley]

One of my major complaints about contractor saws and bandsaws is that the belts are usually fairly long. This moves the natural vibration frequency of the belt to lower frequencies, where the mass of the machine can't damp them out. The belt can really flap around. I find that link belts tend to have much less ability to flap.

Fully agree. My large bandsaw has very short belts and still benefited. My small bandsaw has about 30" between pulleys and REALLY benefited ;-)

[Thomas Hotchkin]

Have you since tried any other link belts?
There could be other reasons for vibration that the belt would not solve. Mis-aligned pulleys would cause you trouble for sure. Other possible causes such as bearings or bent motor shafts are less likely but far worse if true.
Trent, Sorry I was pressed for time when I did that post. After HF Link Belt installation (which I made sure that I did install it in the correct direction) I went by my bearing supply house got a cogged V-belt to replace the stock belt on my BS. I think it was made by Gates. I can now start and shut down BS with a penny standing on edge on table top, can't get to that dime yet. Band Saw is 14" delta with riser block. Tom

[fred klotz]

I bought a few of the Harbor Freight link belts a while back when they were on sale. I was surprised to find they were made in the US, and have worked fine for me in several different applications.

[Bill Leonard]

I have a HF linkbelt on my Delta contractor saw. It works fine as far as I can tell. Reduced vibration some and maybe some noise reduction.

[Myk Rian]

I tried a link belt from WoodCraft on a bandsaw and a jointer. The only difference I found was the link belt was a heck of a lot louder. Total waste of money.
It does that if it's on backwards.