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View Full Version : 2nd season with woodstove - HELP!



Stefan Antwarg
12-16-2004, 5:30 PM
As I begin my second season using a woodstove exclusively to heat my home, the old problem starts again. Smoke in the house. When it's running hot, everything is fine. But, after it's been sitting a while on a slow burn, smoke finds it's way into my house. It's one of these stove that has a catalytic cumbuster in it - so the smoke burns when you close the damper. I have had someone here who checked for leaks and made sure there were no unisual openings. But today when I got home, the smell of smoke just hits you like a brick. Any ideas?

Stefan

Dennis Peacock
12-16-2004, 7:38 PM
Stefan,

One question that comes to my mind is: How high does the stack pipe go that vents through the roof? If it's too short, I will not draw effeciently and will cause smoke during low burning fires. I would check the air flow through the heater out to the roof to make sure that on "low heat" it is drawing enough air to vent the smoke. That's all I can think of at the moment that could cause this. :confused:

Rob Russell
12-16-2004, 8:06 PM
One thing to check would be that the stove pipes are clean (buildup inside could create turbulence and slow down the draft). You could install a chimney topper which will greatly reduce backdrafts from wind blowing down your chimney pipe too. I also assume that you have the stove going well when you flip to catalytic mode so there is a good draft going. On our Vermont Castings (w/ catalytic convertor), there is an auxilary air control that allows you to add air to the cat to help keep the combustion cranking.

Other than that, no ideas.

Jim Becker
12-16-2004, 10:10 PM
Also on the Vermont Castings Encore that we have in our great room, I had to replace our cat conv this year as I discovered the original was actually damaged; probably during shipping from the vendor/factory/warehouse. It performs MUCH better now. But the comment about the chiminey not being tall enough is something to definitely check. And a cap like Rob mentions is a must.

Stefan Antwarg
12-17-2004, 5:58 AM
I would guess that the pipe that goes up the chimmney is at least 25 feet high. It goes above the roof line. Mine is also a vermont castings encore. I have it cleaned once a year (it was cleaned back in June). I remember asking the guy if the catalytic converter was OK, and he said yes. I make sure the stove has been running at 450 or higher for at least 20 minutes before I close the damper. I have no idea if there is a cap like the one Rob mentions.

Stefan

Steve Jenkins
12-17-2004, 8:33 AM
Chimney height. a rough rule of thumb is that the top of the chimney should be 2' above anything within a 10' radius. I'm not familiar with that stove but where does it draw it's combustion air from?

Stefan Antwarg
12-17-2004, 12:29 PM
The air comes in from the back bottom.

Stefan

Scott Parks
12-17-2004, 12:34 PM
Dumb thought, but do you run any exhaust fans in the house such as in bathrooms, laundry rooms, or over the oven? If there is a leak somewhere, these exhaust fans may bring air "inside" from somewhere else??? Such as your stovepipe??? Or drawing air into the house near where the chimney exhausts, such as soffet or roof vents?... Or check the door seal on your stove? Just some ideas to throw at you....

Steve Jenkins
12-17-2004, 1:46 PM
The air comes in from the back bottom.

Stefan

I was wondering if the combustion ari comes from outside through its own duct.
If it draws from the room and the house is really air tight it won't draw well.
The comment about exhaust fans ,kitchen and bath, could cause a backdraft situation if the house is tight also since there has to be makeup air from someplace.

Stefan Antwarg
12-17-2004, 5:24 PM
I called my stove repair/cleaner/salesman. He has tried to fix the problem before, but with no luck. He called me back tonight and told me that the VC encore is just a poor design and that I am ready for a new woodstove. Something about it being a 4 piece system and it developes hairline cracks over time. Conveniently, he happens to sell and install woodstoves. He seems like a nice guy, but I just don't know him well enough to know how honest he is being.

My neighbor, who knew the previous 2 owners of my house, said that the original owner never used any chimmney caps in the winter and never had any problems. This was in the late 90's. The next owners came and installed the caps and started having problems. So tomorrow, he is going to help my remove the caps to see if that helps.

With the prospect of having to spend $2000, I am ready to try anything. No, I don't have any exhaust fans going. The seals on my stove are fine.

Stefan

Jim Becker
12-17-2004, 6:14 PM
I would disagree with the fellow that the Encore is a poor design...ours works wonderfully and the only problem we had was the shattered cat conv, likely from when it was shipped. Lehmans sent me a new one (third party) and it's been working correctly ever since. But do be sure you have an air source as was suggested above if your home is somewhat tight. When we run our 1200 CFM range hood, we need to crack a window for the same reason!

John Bailey
12-19-2004, 7:38 AM
I strongly disagree about the Encore being a poor design. When I built my 3,600 sq. ft. house, back when I had 6 kids at home, I bought the Encore as a decorative piece that would help sell the house when the kids grew up. We rarely used it. Then, when we had our first power outage with -15 degrees F., (Northern Michigan, ya' know) we stoked that little puppy up and it kept the whole house, both floors, warm and toasty. 1st floor would stay 78-80 and the upstairs would be around 70. I often get 10-12 hrs. burn time with the catalytic. The kids are gone and now I live in a small house back in the woods on 20 acres. When I moved, I brought the little Encore with me. We heat exclusively with wood now, same Nothern Michigan climate, the Encore is 10 yrs. old and works like a charm with the original catalytic burner. Keep the stove!!

The only thing I might add is the top loader will often let smoke out and it amazes me how fast that smell goes to the second floor. Also, I'm sure you know this, the air needs to be directed to the normal draft before you lift the top load door.

Good Luck,
John

Stefan Antwarg
12-19-2004, 8:55 AM
There is no question that it heats the house well. And yes, I know I have to open the damper before I open the top. Believe me - I am not going to be so quick to replace it. But I have got to come up with something. My neighbor helped me take the caps off of the chimney, so we will see if that helps the pull.

Stefan

Stefan Antwarg
12-20-2004, 2:27 PM
So, my neighbor took the caps off. But, I decided while the stove was cold I would check the catalytic combustor. I took it out and discovered that it is warped and some of the "honeycombs" were missing or cracked or loose. In the process of taking it out and trying to put it back, I further destroyed this styrofoamy (not styrofoam, but looks and feels like it) material that surrounds it. It was already deteriorating. So, since I cannot properly put the Catalytic combustor back, I am left with no woodstove since the directions say not to use it without it in. I went to lowes and bought a powerful heater (240 v) for over $200. And today I ordered the new stove parts I need and am having it overnighted - for a total of $460. I really was not planning on spending this kind of money this time of year - but what else am I going to do. It still beats a new stove. I really hope this solves my problems with smoke because this is too much to spend for it not to.

And I thought heating with wood was free...

STefan

Jim Becker
12-20-2004, 4:30 PM
Stefan, that material that surrounds and supports the catylist is gypsum board of some sort! I nearly destroyed mine while changing the catylist out, but was able to salvage it by the skin of my teeth. I replaced the catylist as well as the iron "flapper" that was warped, but my cost was only about $250 total from Lehmans in Ohio. They suggested a third-party catylist (6 year warrantee) for about half the VC OEM part cost and that cut the bill considerably. We've been using the stove every day for a week or so now, and it's performing even better than it was when new...which pretty much confirms that the honeycombs were actually damaged early on; probably during shipping of the stove by truck to our house.

Stefan Antwarg
12-20-2004, 4:54 PM
Yeah, that gypsum board really pissed me off. Little pieces were breaking off as I was handling it. The ridges that support the catylist were mostly gone. I tried with much pain and aggrevation to get the catylist to stay in place while I tried to manuever the lower fireback in place. The more I tried, the worse the gypsum was getting. Finally, it broke right in half. So I am getting the complete gypsum assembly and the catalyst. Hopefully it will be here tomorrow. Then I am going to stop worrying about how much money I paid and try to enjoy the holidays.

Stefan