evaluating a used bandsaw

[Bob Riefer]

I found some older threads that were very helpful, and have ordered a book to help me understand better. But, fortunately or unfortunately, I found a good deal on a 10" Delta Homecraft. 28-110 model. So I'll be making a decision on that bandsaw before I"ve received the book to learn more.

Here's what I think I know:
- For a new woodworker like me, the 10" will probably serve me just fine for quite awhile (mostly shape cutting at this stage). 14" would be better, but that can be another day.
- really the biggest difference between the 14" and 10" is distance to the throat - but otherwise very similar right?
- The homecraft saws are cast iron and solidly built / good reputation.
- parts are still easily available
- the blade length is a standard one - 71 3/4"

Ok, so do I understand about right?

And, what are some things to look for and check when I go to look at the saw? Are there certain accessories that I should be checking for? etc.

He has it listed at $85, but I'm feeling like $60-70 is probably closer to the right price.

Thanks guys!

[Prashun Patel]

Not really sure what you mean by 'distance to the throat'. The main diff is in the max cutting height. I find - after using one for a couple years - that even my 14" leaves me wanting more height capacity.

The 10" is probably also underpowered vis-a-vis a 14", which can make it a pain to muscle through stock without forcing blade lean or premature dulling. You might also be limited on the max thickness of blade you can use - but if curve cutting, this might be moot.

That being said, having a dedicated curve-cutting saw and a more powerful 14-17" for resawing is definitely a nice-to-have, and at $50-90, if you're not setting yrself back too much, this could be a great saw to learn on and to ultimately make a 2nd saw.

Things to look for:
Wheels and motor and frame in good condition. These are the most expensive things to correct.

Bearings, drive belt, blade, switch and cord can all be changed - but you shld check these and factor them into yr price. Rust can be removed.

When checking the wheels, make sure the blade tracks fine and there are no flats on the top.

Check the tensioning mechanism and the blade tracking adjustment mechanism.

Check the guide and thrust bearing/block adjustments and make sure they all work.

Check the table tilt mechanisms.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Prhashun pretty much covered the list.

The most important IMO are tensioning, tracking and guides - if they are roller bearings, they should turn free and clear - if they are all scored by blades being thruts into them, they are prolly shot.

You can replace everything - but then you have a $70 saw with $100 parts.

And - you are correct - 10" is the max distance from the blade to the frame - or, you can cut a max 10" piece to the left of the blade. Prashun's point about resaw capacity is good to know, but as he said, the HP is prolly low enough to make resawing tall hardwood a task for your next bandsaw.

[Van Huskey]

Take a close look at the wheels, I think they are magnesium and you want to make sure they aren't missing chunks etc.

The best way to evaluate a saw is to use it, but that is often a problem since often the only blades thay have are dull. But try to see/hear it run under power.

Depending on what type of work you want to do with it saws like that can be perfect little space savers or a huge amount of frustration. Most of the older 10" saws have 1/4 to 1/3 hp motors so thicker stock can be cut but may be painfully slow.

Try to make sure everything is there and all the adjustments work and are free to move. Tilt the table, ensure the trunnion is solid and the table is free from heavy pitting.

I have always viewed the 10" saws as a novelty but the older ones can be fine saws just be aware of their limitations.

[Darius Ferlas]

Since the main reason why I bought a bandsaw is resawing, for me it's mainly about the HP and the resawing height. My 14" General has a 1HP motor (pretty good for its class) and I have a riser kit to turn the 6" resaw into 12". Right now I have doubts whether I would be able to use the riser kit since I already made the saw struggle with a 6" walnut resawing job.

For pattern cutting it's good enough, and so far I haven't hit the limits of the saw but on my last project I was pretty close to maxing out the 14" from the blade to the frame.

[Bob Riefer]

Thanks guys!

---
Prashun, by "distance to the throat" I meant how deep from blade to the back support. So this saw I'm looking at is 10 inches to that point.
---

As for resawing capability, I don't think there's much with a saw like this. But then, with a 1/4 hp motor, I believe it would mostly be intended for shape cutting.

My goal for using this would be cutting shapes for furniture. Like skirt boards, tops of adirondack chairs, stuff like that. And the other goal would be to learn hands on about band saws before I spend money on a more serious machine.

Reasonable goals?

---
Sorry to be dense, I really am a newbie on this. Do you have any advice on how to check these things?


Wheels and motor and frame in good condition. These are the most expensive things to correct.

Bearings, drive belt, blade, switch and cord can all be changed - but you shld check these and factor them into yr price. Rust can be removed.

When checking the wheels, make sure the blade tracks fine and there are no flats on the top.

Check the tensioning mechanism and the blade tracking adjustment mechanism.

Check the guide and thrust bearing/block adjustments and make sure they all work.

Check the table tilt mechanisms

Thanks again!!!!!!

[Pete Bradley]

The homecraft is more solidly built than any modern 10" saw, but it has all the limitations of that size. If you're looking for small cuts in light stock or jigsaw type cuts without a need for a lot of throat depth, it's a reasonable choice, but you should think carefully about whether to hold out for a 14".

If it's ready to use and has a decent motor of 1/4HP or higher I think it's probably worth $60 or so. The Delta 1/3 HP motors of that vintage get good money by themselves so if it comes with one that's a plus. More likely it will have an old washing machine motor, knock a few bucks off if it does. If it needs tires, repairs, has a lot of surface rust, etc reduce your offer accordingly.

The bearings are probably dried out but it will run for a long time that way. They're probably something old school like 88502 so replacements will be $10-$15 apiece from a bearing house.

Parts other than screws and tires are very hard to come by, check for missing parts and breaks. I recall the trunnions are very lightly built, take the table off and make sure the parts are all present and not broken or cracked.

[Bob Riefer]

Well, I ended up skipping this one. I went out to check it out, and the motor was 1/4 hp, my test cuts in thin pieces of softwood taxed the machine and I think cutting 2" oak (as an example) would be pretty tough. No power switch, just plug it in to turn it on... and the cord was in bad condition. Tires and other parts were in good condition, but the machine just felt small and weak compared to what I expect to use it for. AND... the guy was FIRM at $85 and tried to additionally charge me $12 per clamp for some pipe clamps. I told him thanks but no thanks, and think I learned today that waiting for what I really need is the way to go in this case.

Thanks again guys!

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Bob,

Do yourself a favor. Order Mark Duginske's latest book on bandsaws. It has a section on what to check on a used bandsaw and how to check it. It is a reference manual that most shops could use. It's $13.57 plus shipping. I paid nearly twice that for my first copy from the publisher.

I bought 2. The 1st one I loaned to a friend. For understandable reasons, it didn't come home. I ordered the 2nd one for my shop reference.

http://www.amazon.com/New-Complete-Guide-Band-Saw/dp/1565233182?&camp=212361&linkCode=wsw&tag=wwwnorthwinda-20&creative=380797

[Bob Riefer]

Hey Ken,
Thanks, that's actually the exact book that I ordered the other day. In fact, I think the post I read in the archives suggesting that book was actually posted by a "Ken" so perhaps I took your advice without you knowing it. :-)

[Dan Karachio]

Bob, I had a 12" Walker Turner and it was a very nice saw - super heavy duty compared to bandsaws today. I mean heavy! Also, as a 12" it did almost anything a 14" could do. 7" resaw and a 12" deep throat. So your old 10 might be a great saw, especially for curve work. However, I did not know what to look for and here is what did her in, in the end.

1. Wheels - are they warped or wobbled? If so, you will never get them straight. Crowning tires to compensate - sounds easier than it is to do.
2. Are there any cracks in the cast iron. Alas, I had some and in the end it was something beyond my skills to fix.

I found a machinist to take this off my hands and I'm sure the two are happy now, but I am not a machinist and have no interest in being one. As a result, the world of fabulous old tools is probably not for me, but man, do I like them.

Oops - see you passed. Still, please take my experience with you if in the future you find a nice old saw.

[glenn bradley]

Well, I ended up skipping this one. I went out to check it out, and the motor was 1/4 hp, my test cuts in thin pieces of softwood taxed the machine and I think cutting 2" oak (as an example) would be pretty tough.

I wonder if that was the original motor? Just curious. My Rockwell/Delta 10" PM1886 (1970's machine) has a 1/3HP motor and saw curves in 6/4 oak but it won't win any races. I have a larger bandsaw for resawing and larger work. I believe you would have found the 10" machine very limiting but, it makes a great 2nd machine in my shop.

[Van Huskey]

I wonder if that was the original motor? Just curious. My Rockwell/Delta 10" PM1886 (1970's machine) has a 1/3HP motor and saw curves in 6/4 oak but it won't win any races. I have a larger bandsaw for resawing and larger work. I believe you would have found the 10" machine very limiting but, it makes a great 2nd machine in my shop.

Plus you have the potential of a fairly dull blade.

In the end I think you should look for a 14" saw if your budget can handle it for an only saw.