New Machine Arriving: Minimax FS35 Jointer/Planer

[Bill Maietta]

A few months ago I got a new bandsaw, an MM16, and I got great advice here on everything from selecting the machine to unloading and setup. Now, the next beast is on its way. A Minimax FS35 J/P is scheduled to arrive this Thursday. I'm wondering if anyone has advice on unloading and setup. I've read the horror story thread of a member who had an awful shipping experience with an FS35, and I'm hoping to have nothing like that experience.

It is set to arrive with a lift gate, and the pallet should be set right on the shop/garage floor. I have a neighbor who could bring his forklift over to take it off the pallet. Is this necessary? Smart? Can forks go right under the belly of the machine (it's difficult to tell from the pictures I've seen).

Any other advice on setup, calibration would be appreciated. I read the thread about the digital gauge added to the machine, but I don' think I see that as needed.

Thanks,
Bill

[Mike Heidrick]

The crate will list lifting it off with a forklift and chains connected at several spots designed for lifting. That is the safe way to do it IMO. I lift my machines with forks on the loader.

[Rye Crane]

Bill,

Congratulations on your new tool. I have a minimax j/p and really love it.
I think the Italians really have a good, strong machine and you should get
years of service out of it. Plus your Tersa head is a wonderful addition to
any jointer/planer. I ended up using HSS knives and they give me a great
finish with the planer. Tersa's patent has run it's course and now you can buy clones many places. I get mine from my sharpening company.

There are pockets in the bottom of your machine, indicating where the forks go. I bought a pallet jack, the narrow 22.5" I think is the spread and the forks are low profile, with that I can move both my j/p and my saw/shaper. My j/p weighs 2200# and the s/s weighs in at about 2000# so I really need that pallet jack, casters aren't a solution.

The first thing, removing the cosmoline from the machine. I used mineral spirits, some use kerosine but I didn't want to become a roman candle so mineral spirits works just fine. Just get a supply of rags, make sure you either put them in a sealed container when finished or put them out in the air to dry before putting them in the waste container. Could be
a delayed roman candle.

A good investment and much less expensive for checking your tables for co-planer is a 6 or 8' level with alumunium faces that have been
"machined" they are done by a CNC machine and are just as good as
a Starrett straight edge costing both an arm and a leg (550.00) I found
a 6' at Amazon.com for around 50.00 and a 8' at Home Depot for about 100.00.

It is also a good investment to get yourself a very accurate level. I use a Starrett 199Z good to .0005 I begin with a level that is good to .01 and get in the ball park then go for the 199Z. It is very important for good results on all of your machinery to keep it level. It will affect preformance and the cast iron is very flexable. Another good investment is a "One Way" gauge with it's dial indicator you can check your tables for any dips or bends and the fence for square. If the machine is level my tables are absolutely flat. With their
blanchard grind they shouldn't have any hollows or hills. Mine are flat when the machine is level.

With the Tersa head and your One Way gauge set your gauge to zero on the table and then check the knives across their span. the knives should be equal or .001-.003 higher than the out feed table. No more otherwise you will get snipe. The infeed table is adjustable for cutting depth and if co-planer then that is all there is to it.

On your FS35 I think all you have to do is remember to make sure your kip levels that hold the tables down are locked in place otherwise you will have very different results each time you use it. The planer bed does not have rollers so you will want to make sure to keep it waxed. I use LPS 3
on my cast iron, spray it on a rag and wipe the machine down. It leaves a slightly waxy film that will not attract dust. Keeps things moving just like exlax. And prevents rust. I live near a large river and my humidity is always at least 65% and when I work I usually sweat so I am dripping and it's good to wipe that up quickly, but you won't get any rust with the LPS3. It's available at Grainger and elsewhere. I use LPS2 on the lifting
screws and the fence bar,e tc.

Your mortissing table when mounted you should check for level. Insert a bit, (use the 4 flute end mills) and raise the table until it just kisses the bit. You can see if your table is level and square to the cut. When using the 4 fluted bits you cut a little then move it back and forth, just move it about 1/8" each time until your mortise is completed. Very nice quality and fast.

Good luck, I probably was redundant with this information but I don't know how familiar you are with this tool so I rattled on. Hope you enjoy it.

Rye Crane
Pittsburg, Ca.

[Bill Maietta]

Thanks Rye and Mike. Great information. I hadn't heard of the Oneway gauges, but I just went to their site and it seems like a good addition to the shop.

On the lifting question, I went to SCM's parts site and downloaded the manual. I looks like you attach eye bolts to the frame on either side of the cutter head and lift with a sling across the eye bolts. Shown in the photo attached. Seems a little odd. I wonder what size bolts are needed, just so I'm sure I have them on hand.

[Rye Crane]

Bill,

Go to the MiniMax-USA website. Check out your new machines manual
and parts list. You should be able to see the complete view of the machine. I'll bet that there is room on either end for the narrow pallet jack like the one I got 22.5" wide and room underneath the machine on
the sides for forks, either pallet jack or forklift forks to lift. If you need
to use slings, great. I don't think I would do it that way, unless you plan
on using a engine hoist to pick it off a pickup truck and push it into a garage.

Rye Crane