Very large faceplate

[Anthony Jules]

I am looking for a large faceplate 12-13" diameter. I have only found 10" ones so far. The thread would be 1-1/4x8tpi.

Does anyone know a place that might sell these or more likely, a place that could fabricate one?

Thanks for you help.

Anthony Jules

[Jon McElwain]

Hegner makes a 320mm (12.6") one for the VB36 bowl lathe. I think it sells for about $185. PM me and I'll send you Greg Jensen's (Oaksville Woodworks) contact info.

Curious, I have a 10" faceplate on my Oneway and have put some pretty large pieces on it with no problem. I don't think I would ever need anything any larger. What is your project that you need such a large faceplate?

[Dennis Ford]

+1 on the why?
My largest faceplates are 6" dia and I have put blanks over 150 lbs and 20" long on them. I believe that they are strong enough to fully load the 1-1/4" spindle.

[Rex Guinn]

I used a 6" faceplate put a 18" Dia. 3/4" plywood and then turned a 36" Dia. Oak burl.
Used 8 1 1/2" screws thru the plywood into the Burl. it worked just fine. It took four people to put the blank on the PM3520b.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I agree and like Dennis my biggest is 6". I have had a 100 lb. piece held just fine with it. I to am curious why such a large faceplate?

[Mike Davis NC]

Back in the early 80s I had a hard time finding turning tools and finally found a friendly machine shop that made some faceplates and tools for me. I traded making some wood tool cases they needed for the metal work.

I remember reading about a guy in Atlanta who used a tractor clutch plate for a faceplate. He was making 4x6 bowls. Yeah feet.

[Anthony Jules]

Many people have asked, so .... as many have suggested the reason for the large faceplate is not the weight of the piece or the holding ability. A smaller faceplate would work for that, but the screws would be in the wrong place.

I use the faceplate technique that David Ellsworth teaches and describes in his book. The idea is that the faceplate screws actually go into the blank around where the base of the beice is going to be. That way you do not loose the last 1/2" to 1" of wood at the base when you mount a blank for a hollow form vessel. The images that follow show a hollow form I did recently, with a visual of where the faceplate and screws where. I used a Oneway 10" faceplate with a 13" plywood ring attached to it. The blanks are wet so the weight distribution is not even and I get more vibration than I would like. The size is good, but I want a balanced, steel solution.

Position of faceplate and screws:
IMG_1461.jpg (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=160930&stc=1&d=1284175915)


Faceplate construction
IMG_1462.jpg (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=160931&stc=1&d=1284175915)

[Scott Hackler]

Interesting, indeed. But I dont think I can find a good enough reason to attach a blank in this manner. At some point the attachment point, where the screws are, needs to be turned off for a narrower base. I find that the 1/4" of wood required for a tenon is a small price to pay for a super secure attachment and no chance of turning into a screw with the tool.

With the tenon and chuck technique, I can shape the entire vessel, hollow the entire vessel, sand the entire vessel and sometime finish 95% on the lathe. A quick reverse on the lathe with a piece of scrap turned to fit in the entry hole (held in the chuck) and the tailstock against the center of the tenon and its easily turned off (all but 1/2 to 1/4").

If it works for you, great. Very nice looking HF by the way. What is the size of the entry hole?

[Dan Kralemann]

Anthony,

I believe that on Ellsworth's DVD, he states a manufacturer that makes his faceplates. You can also contact Ellsworth directly through his web site.

[Anthony Jules]

Scott, I use chucks for almost everything else I turn. However, I do not think they are a safe choice for a 100lb, off balance blank. The opening is exactly 1".


Dan, the source that David has in his book, on his DVD's and the reference sheet for his classes is no longer in business. The gentleman whose business it was has passed away. I emailed David and he does not yet have a replacement source.

[Jon McElwain]

I wonder if a piece of 1" thick MDF would help with the vibration you are getting from the plywood.

Also, a nut matching your spindle thread welded to a round piece of steel plate with a number of holes drilled for your screw attachments might be a less expensive solution to the stock faceplate. It could be welded, then trued on a metal lathe in a welding or fabrication shop??

[Brent English]

By the way, darn nice looking hollow form Andy - Brent

[David E Keller]

That's a beautiful redwood form you posted!

As for a large faceplate, I'd check with a local machine shop. I doubt you'll find a large, established maker of faceplates this size because it's not a commonly used method of holding a piece(at least with faceplates of this size). I don't think they would be too difficult to make for a decent machinist. You could actually use a common size faceplate with an additional disc of a larger size affixed to it.

[David Woodruff]

We can put one together for about $300. All pieces would be engine lathe turned and true. Send the rough specs if interested. Probablw want 3/4" thickness with a large welded hub. threaded to your spindle. This will be machined from solid steel. No castings. Will also need bolt hole pattern you envision.

[David DeCristoforo]

That's a very nice HF. In the past, when I needed a large diameter faceplate for whatever reason, I made them by laminating two pieces of 3/4" MDF and attaching the steel faceplate to that.

[Harvey Schneider]

I have two suggestions.
First:
What I see in you photos looks like common plywood. I believe that two thicknesses of Baltic Birch plywood will rival the stiffness of a steel plate. The two thicknesses would be glued together to forma single piece. This type of laminate has been used to hold up buildings. Two 1/2" inch sheets are probably enough, but if you are really paranoid you can use two 3/4" sheets.

Second:
You can have a steel plate fabricated with tapped holes to match your largest faceplate. This type of "marrying plate" is frequently used in industry to adapt a machine to a specific load. Additional holes would be strategically placed to suit your block of wood.

[Scott Hackler]

I have to revise my previous comment to point out that I DO use a face plate on the top side of a blank to round it out on the lathe and turn a tenon. Once its round, I flip it and use the tenon from that point on. The comments I made to Anthony were mostly confusion on my part, because it appears that the faceplate in your process is attached to the bottom of the form, from the beginning. That is the confusing part for me, because of the placement of the attachment screws.

I am still not seeing it in my head, but I'm sure that there is a valid technique here.

[Pete Jordan]

Try Bill Noble william_b_noble@msn.com
He custom built one for me.

Pete