Veneer Question

[Mike OMelia]

Imagine a 4"x4" laminated beam with a 45 degree wedge cut off one end. I want this beam to look like a solid wood beam, as though it was cut from a solid 4x4. I'm using mahogany. I was thinking of veneering with mahogany, buy how to do it seamlessly? This is a musical instrument application.

Thanks!

Btw, if I could find reasonably priced 4x4 mahogany, I would go that rout if I could be assured that it was not prone to splitting over time (it's why I like laminating)

[Erik Christensen]

If you have a vacum pump and bag I would make the beam out layers of of 3/4 birch ply - then apply the veneer. The only thing that will not look "real" is the ends - there is no such things as 'end grain' veneer

[Chris Padilla]

Mahogany is quite stable. It would likely be easier and look better to use (and pay for) the solid mahogany.

If you really want to look like a solid board, you'll want some mahogany to cut the ends off of for the end grain look...if that is important to have.

I tossed together a quick Sketch-Up of an idea.

If your veneer is thin enough, I don't think you need to worry about mitering the veneer where they meet along the long edge. If you shop cut your own, you'll probably end up with around 1/16" thick veneers and may need to miter them unless the grain, color blends very nicely and you use a color matching glue (see veneersupplies.com for their excellent Better Bonds veneer glue available in 3 colors).

The end-grain block gets glued first, of course, and then you veneer over it and the plywood.

(Sorry, couldn't figure out how to easily cut a 45 into the graphic)

[Mike OMelia]

Chris, You do seem to have a good idea of what I am getting at. If I could find solid Mahogany in the size I need, I would do it. Assuming I do not find a reasonable source, I intend to use solid laminates (for strength, this holds the large peghead of a harp guitar in place). I will give thought to your technique... it does go a long way to accomplishing my goal. I can also thickness sand to about 1/16" or a bit thinner... so it just might work! And yes, the end grain is the big issue.

Mike

[Jamie Buxton]

Let's say you laminate two 8/4 planks together and look at the end of it. If the lumber has strong grain rings, for instance like oak, it will be obvious that you've laminated two planks together. If the lumber has not-very-visible grain rings, like mahogany, the lamination will be considerably less obvious. Of course, you need good face-planing and a thin glue line.

It will help if there's no color shift between the two pieces making the end-grain. I'd use two successive slices off the same plank, perhaps a half-inch thick. You could still use some less-expensive species for the core, and veneer all the face-grain faces.