Can't loosen bandsaw tension

[Scott Schwake]

I have a new-to-me Delta 14" bandsaw, but I can't change blades because I can't remove the tension. I have loosened the knob as far as I can, and the upper wheel won't budge. I tried lightly tapping it down, but no luck. Any suggestions?

[Van Huskey]

So what your saying is the spring is loose but the wheel stays up.

[Lee Schierer]

It sounds to me since this is a used saw that the previous owner may have put on a blade that was too small. My suggestion would be to try to walk the blade off the wheels by turning the wheels by hand while pulling the blade toward the front. If that doesn't work then cut (break the blade) as it may not be the proper length for your saw. Once the blade is off, carefully check the upper wheel blade tensioner and insure the slide moves freely through its entire range of motion. Then call Suffolk Machine (Timberwolf Blades) and tell them the maker and model of your saw. They should be able to get you the proper length blade for your particular saw.

[Dan Hintz]

If you have to walk the blade off because it is too small, how did the owner get it on there in the first place? Doesn't make much sense...

[Mike Cutler]

Scott

The problem may be the tension rod itself.
The tension rod on my Jet 14" stripped in the range of adjustment, which resulted in not being able to let off the tension. It caused the square nut, inside the tension mechanism, to cock slighty and bind.
I had to remove the tension assembly itself.
The tension rod got change to fix it, and I made my own square nut to accomodate the the US thread of the rod.

[John Coloccia]

If you need to get the blade off to work on it, don't tug it by hand. Change the tracking until the blade tracks off the front of the wheel so you don't have to have your hands pulling on a moving blade.

[Lee Schierer]

If you have to walk the blade off because it is too small, how did the owner get it on there in the first place? Doesn't make much sense...

My 1/2" resaw blade is slightly small for my 14" bandsaw. I have to walk it on to get it started even with the tension adjustment fully relaxed. Once it is started it works fine. When the blade gets replaced, the new one will be a bit longer.:rolleyes:

[Dan Hintz]

Lee,

Is such a situation/need common (though hopefully not typical)? I hope to have a nice BS by the end of the month, but the wide range of blade lengths has me scratching my head a bit... it's almost as if blades need to be custom welded for each machine.

[Mark Ashmeade]

I got fed up with my old 14" saw partly because of the tension rod. It sits in a dimple in the frame, and that was a very poor mechanical solution.

In the end I ordered a Grizzly 17" (it arrives today :) ). I went to the local woodwork supply, and they have a myriad of blade sizes, but not the 131 1/2 that the Grizzly requires. Special order, must order at least two. I left it, there's another store on the other side of town that stocks them.

[Lee Schierer]

Lee,

Is such a situation/need common (though hopefully not typical)? I hope to have a nice BS by the end of the month, but the wide range of blade lengths has me scratching my head a bit... it's almost as if blades need to be custom welded for each machine.

Normally you order blades by length and they fit fine. Your book should tell you what length blade is needed for your new saw. Write that length number on the front upper cover so it doesn't get lost and you can find it when you need to order new blades. As you probably know ll manufactured items have dimension tolerances that are established by the manufacturer. In this case the length of the blade is probably about 1/4" short so it fits tight over the wheels on my saw. I purchased this blade in Canada and couldn't return it. I will live with it being just a bit too short until it is dull (which may take a while since I don't resaw much).

[Mike Cutler]

Lee,

Is such a situation/need common (though hopefully not typical)? I hope to have a nice BS by the end of the month, but the wide range of blade lengths has me scratching my head a bit... it's almost as if blades need to be custom welded for each machine.

Dan

You do have to be careful about length.
The 14" bandsaws, by various manufctures, have been shipped requiring a 93" and a 93 1/2" blade. If you add a riser kit now you need a 105" or a 105 1/2" blade, and this is all for saws that are supposed to be "clones" of each other.
Short answer is that you shouldn't have to "walk" the blade onto the saw.

One more thing to watch out for is blade thickness. The wider blades, have thicker cross sections, which limits the applicability of the blade to bandsaws that have wheels larger enough in diameter to not induce stress fractures on the blade.

Pick the bandasaw by the work you intend to do with it. I have a 14" Jet and it will resaw, but my 18" Rikon 10-340 resaws much better without all of the fussiness. I just set the fence and let it rip.

[glenn bradley]

My .02: - carriage jammed, DAMHIKT.

[Van Huskey]

Lee,

Is such a situation/need common (though hopefully not typical)? I hope to have a nice BS by the end of the month, but the wide range of blade lengths has me scratching my head a bit... it's almost as if blades need to be custom welded for each machine.


This is a pretty rare situation IF it is the blade, which I don't think it is. In the end you may find a band length +/- 1/2" will work better on a particular saw than the length specified. As for custom welding IF you aren't paying for your blades to be cut and welded to order you are probably paying too much, industrial supply houses don't usually keep to many (if any) blades cut and welded and they are usually cheaper than ready to run blades sold at etailers and retailers.

[Dan Hintz]

Ah, so most blades I will order (good stuff) will be welded to the selected length at order time... good to know.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Is the tension totally off the spring? If not, then your adjusting nut is stuck. (Recently I fixed a BS with this exact problem.) Tilt the upper wheel as far forward as possible, and then turning wheel by hand, walk the blade off. Then you can remove entire upper unit, and check to see if nut is seized. If nut is seized on threaded rod, then you will need to saw rod above tension device. You can then take top piece of rod and thread it for a 3/8-16 coupling nut, Take a 3/8-16 bolt and cut a piece off long enough to replace damaged section that was removed. Chase threads with a 3/8-16 die. Using permanent LockTite connect both pieces using 3/8-16 coupling nut. Thread back into tension device, adding a 3/8-16 square nut. Lowes sells the 3/8-16 square nuts in a package of two for about a buck. Total costs of repairs, about $10

[Scott Schwake]

My .02: - carriage jammed, DAMHIKT.

Glenn nailed it.

I did as Lee suggested with John's recommendation by walking the blade off by hand after adjusting the tracking. As I was walking it off, something popped and the wheel dropped. Put the blade back on, cranked the tension back up and then released it and the same thing happened, wheel wouldn't drop. Walked the blade off again, and once again, the wheel dropped. Seems like the tension mechanism gets cockeyed in the 2 slots it rides in. Maybe it's just dirty, I'll try to get it cleaned up. Does anyone lubricate those slots?

Edit: Seems like the blade is the right size, there's plenty of play once the top wheel releases. It's a Delta 28-245 with a riser block, the blades from the PO are labled as 105".

[Lance Norris]

Seems like the tension mechanism gets cockeyed in the 2 slots it rides in. Does anyone lubricate those slots?


Inspect the square tension nut for disfiguration, and the slots for any damage. Check the treads on the rod and see if they are letting the nut twist(common problem). If something is wrong in this area, then work, or new parts, will be needed. The nut and tension rod(if damaged)are available through many parts sources. As for lubing the slots, generally no, you dont lube them. The nut it somewhat sloppy in the slot.