220 V switch query

[Jim N Burke]

All,
I'm new to SMC and I've already used your recommendations setting up my duct collection (i.e. HF 2HP, Wynn Filter, Thein Can topper) - works a charm.

I have three machines that need rewiring and want to set them up for 220. Looking for switches similar to the MLSC 9072 on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9072-Safety-Motor-Switch/dp/B002SW2N62/ref=pd_cp_hi_3) but higher quality. Can anyone recommend a switch and supplier?

Somewhat related: Has anyone set up an HF 2HP DC motor for 220? It doesn't look like it can, but I've only pulled the switch cover.

Thanks,

Jim

[glenn bradley]

Welcome. Perhaps you could be more specific about what you mean by higher quality? Grizzly has an array of switches; magnetic (http://www.grizzly.com/products/Magnetic-Switch-Single-Phase-220V-Only-1-HP/G4571) and not (http://www.grizzly.com/products/110-220V-Paddle-On-Off-Switch/H8243). Although some folks use a single pole switch to operate 220v I like to stick with opening both hot leads.

[Prashun Patel]

Check out Grizzly. They have a variety of switches.

What tools are you operating? You might not need to modify the switch. I rewired my jointer for 220v, and it just involved changing the motor wiring after the switch.

[Jim N Burke]

Glenn,
The reviews for the MLC switches were mixed and they sounded like they might be poorer quality. The Grizzly ones look to fit the bill. Thanks.

[Dan Hintz]

I would never use a single pole to switch 220V... leaving one leg energized is a recipe for potential electrocution. Kind of like the idiot who owned the house before me and decided it was acceptable to switch the neutral leg of light sockets :(

[Chip Lindley]

...I have three machines that need rewiring and want to set them up for 220....

Somewhat related: Has anyone set up an HF 2HP DC motor for 220? It doesn't look like it can, but I've only pulled the switch cover.
Thanks,
Jim

Dont forget you will need new male 220v-only male plugs on your machines. Guess that goes without saying. Never use any adapter to mate a 110v plug to a 220v receptacle.

Your existing on/off switch will probably work for 220v. Machines draw half the amperage on 220v that on 110v. If your switch is a DPST (double pole single throw) all the better. But, if it is a SPST (single pole single throw), it switches off only one leg of the 220v line. The other remains hot.

Your HF DC motor should have a wiring connection diagram on the motor plate, or inside the connection box cover, if it is a dual voltage motor. (also look in the manual for instructions) Numbered wires must be rearranged at the motor and wire-nutted together differently for 220v operation.

[glenn bradley]

Glenn,
The reviews for the MLC switches were mixed and they sounded like they might be poorer quality. The Grizzly ones look to fit the bill. Thanks.

Ah, good info Jim. The "outside" of a switch can look great but, as we know, its what's inside that counts :). I have taken the paddle/front cover of an inexpensive 100v Rockler switch (bought on clearance) and put it on the heavy 220v switch on my bandsaw. Gives me a nice big target for "stop" and I get to keep the better switch guts.

[Lee Schierer]

I have to ask why you are switching your machines to run on 220.

If it is to get more power from existing motors, switching voltage won't help. Running 220 won't lower your electric bill either.

The only real advantages of 220 are that you can use smaller sized wire and you tend to get less voltage drop over long distances.

[Jim N Burke]

All,
One thing I like about this forum, which caused me to join is that you all often answer questions that weren't asked but maybe should have been. And you offer insights without sounding condescending or belittling noobs - a refreshing change from many of the tech forums I browse as part of my day job.
Anyway, info I left out: I have an Inca 10" jointer/planer, an Inca, 3-wheel bandsaw both of which have Dayton motors, and a Craftsman, 1950's vintage 10" table saw that were my father's. I don't have the model numbers with me. Only the planer has a DPST switch, the other two each have a standard, SPST light switch.

I'm putting in L14-20P (20amp, 4-conductor, "twist-lock") plugs for them. Some would say this is over-kill, but I like the locking and I tend to go over-board with grounding. (I've done all the wiring in the renovation and addition I built in the last year, and had it pass inspection.)

The reason I asked about the HF motor and 220 V is that it doesn't have a plate, that I can see, regarding changing the voltage. I haven't pulled the impeller so it may be hiding there. Under the switch are just a single hot and neutral going into the case. The manual only mentions 110 so it seems possible they save money by buying single-voltage motors.

Jim

[George Clark]

I have to ask why you are switching your machines to run on 220.

If it is to get more power from existing motors, switching voltage won't help. Running 220 won't lower your electric bill either.

The only real advantages of 220 are that you can use smaller sized wire and you tend to get less voltage drop over long distances.

Jim,

I would second Lee's comments. The 120 vs 240 volt issue has been discussed at length on the forum and helped me clear up some misconceptions. I believe Lee is correct in everything he has written.

George

[Rick Christopherson]

I would never use a single pole to switch 220V... leaving one leg energized is a recipe for potential electrocution. No tool should be serviced while it is still plugged in. You're concerned about a live conductor inside the motor's junction box, yet there are two live conductors inside the switch's junction box. Accessing any of these requires the junction boxes to be opened. Anyone that opens these boxes on a cord-and-plug connected tool with the plug still connected; well, I consider that "thinning the herd". ;)

A 2-pole switch is fine, but it is not required for a control circuit.


I'm putting in L14-20P (20amp, 4-conductor, "twist-lock") plugs for them. Some would say this is over-kill, but I like the locking and I tend to go over-board with grounding. (I've done all the wiring in the renovation and addition I built in the last year, and had it pass inspection.)
Using the L14-20 plug and receptacle is not appropriate for the application. The Neutral wire is NOT an extra ground, and using it as such in the receptacle is a code violation, and using it as such in the tool creates a ground loop through your tool if multiple outlets are on the same circuit.

http://www.liteco.ca/Portals/_Rainbow/images/default/Tools/NEMA/L14_20p.gif
The proper plug and receptacle would be the L6-20.
http://www.liteco.ca/Portals/_Rainbow/images/default/Tools/NEMA/L06_20p.gif

As for the voltage change in the first place, if the motor is smaller than 1-1/2 hp, the rewiring is just a needless complication. There are some situations where rewiring the motor is necessary, but this does not seem to be one of them. It sounds like you are planning on installing new circuits to begin with, so why not just properly size the circuits in the first place and forgo the voltage change. If you have a 2 hp motor, that is one I would change over. 1-1/2 hp motors are marginal (especially with new circuits), and anything less than 1-1/2 hp is wasting time.

[Don Jarvie]

As for changing the DC to 220. See if there is a box or something on the motor that the comes out of. If you open that up you may find a wiring diagram that shows you what wires to switch up for 220.

[Jerome Hanby]

I can think of one good reason to rewire the dust collector for 240. If you ever upgrade the dust collector, you will probably need 240 to power it, so why not take care of that now and be done with it. I'm using the same logic for my table saw, it will currently run 120, but once I get my Unisaw refurbished, it will be running 240V!

[Jim N Burke]

I hate it when I'm wrong, but Rick is correct about the L6 vs L14.

[Nick Laeder]

I would never use a single pole to switch 220V... leaving one leg energized is a recipe for potential electrocution. Kind of like the idiot who owned the house before me and decided it was acceptable to switch the neutral leg of light sockets :(


Pretty sure I bought a house from that guy too. His name is Leroy. Any time I find something weird or bad in my house, I holler, Dammit Leroy. My wife stopped being amused about it a couple of years ago.

[Chip Lindley]

The reason I asked about the HF motor and 220 V is that it doesn't have a plate, that I can see, regarding changing the voltage. I haven't pulled the impeller so it may be hiding there. Under the switch are just a single hot and neutral going into the case. The manual only mentions 110 so it seems possible they save money by buying single-voltage motors.
Jim

Jim, if the HF DC motor has only two leads going into the motor case, it is 110v for sure. The motor surely states it's full load amperage somewhere! Or, it is listed in the DC manual. But, the motor is not even close to 2hp if it runs on a 15 amp, 110v circuit. HF hype! At best, it's about 1.5hp.