pith removal

[Richard Golde]

Im going to be turning a couple of hollow forms (vases) out of green cherry limb and trunk wood. As not to crack the base is drilling out the pith recommended? Im going to rough turn, dry, and return. When should a plug be put in?
Richard Golde

[David E Keller]

I haven't tried the plug route, but I would think you'd insert it after drying and returning the opening.

I've used the thin CA method where you drip it in to saturation on the pith from the inside and outside of the form. This is done before drying or at completion of the form if you are doing it in one step.

Looking forward to hearing from the others who've done this.

[charlie knighton]

i have always used the trunk, i split the trunk to one side of the pith, then split the pith away from the other side of the trunk

limb wood is called reaction wood, i would try to maybe make a xmas ornament with the limb, turn the pith out as you would normally make the ornament, and hope for the best

other than turn it thin and hope for the best is all i can add

good luck

[David Woodruff]

What David K. said. I have used that method for years, no problems. I Love my CA. Wish it didn't stink.

[Josh Bowman]

What David K. said. I have used that method for years, no problems. I Love my CA. Wish it didn't stink.
How do you guys use CA for finishing and general coverage like this? At $$$ per oz. it seems expensive. Not meaning to hi jack the thread.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Starbond. They sell CA in 16 oz bottles. Different thicknesses, and they even have black, to highlight those mistakes. Black is good for accenting cracks and knots. Still stinks though.
So you guys are saying that if you CA the pith, it may keep it from cracking? I will have to try that since I like to turn boxes.

[Allen Neighbors]

Thin the thin CA with Acetone. About 25% Acetone will thin it sufficiently to allow it to penetrate the pith. The better the penetration, the better it will stabilize the pith.
That's just the way I've done it, and my thoughts on it.

[David E Keller]

How do you guys use CA for finishing and general coverage like this? At $$$ per oz. it seems expensive. Not meaning to hi jack the thread.

I get my glue from Monty at woodenwonderstx. That's the best price on CA that I've found. I also get my epoxy there along with extra bottles and caps. I have no affiliation, but I've had great service on several occasions. I don't use CA for finishing except for pens.

[David Woodruff]

How do you guys use CA for finishing and general coverage like this? At $$$ per oz. it seems expensive. Not meaning to hi jack the thread.
Josh, no problem, Absolutely the best and most economical CA is from Starbond, CPH International. Purchase the 8 or 16 oz bottles , put them in the refrigerator. I have used Starbond that has been stored in my workshop refrige. for more than 4 years. The temp in 33 deg.F. I purchase super thin, and medium CA, and accelerator, and this fine Fellow will send you free all the small bottles you will need. This CA is triple distilled for purity. I use the medium for attaching a waste block to the work piece. This stuff holds. The surfaces are essential to be flat with a very slight concave of .0005" to the center. Maybe .001" is ok. I am not funning here, these dimensions and attention to the concavity has worked for hundreds of pieces. Think of a convex in the center, then there is a lever to seperate the the waste block from the work piece. It is that easy.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I always when using limbs turn the pith out of the bottom. I never put the plug in till I have finished turning the vase and I am finishing the bottom.

[Ken Whitney]

best and most economical CA is from Starbond

Direct from Starbond?

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Direct from Starbond?

Yes. Google them and then give them a call.

[Ken Whitney]

Thanks Kyle.