Need advise for Bailey 7 C restoration

[Dan Andrews]

Happy to say I just picked up a 7C in good overall condition for $20. (other neat tools were included in the $20 too)

The leading edge of the chip breaker or iron cap is worn concave along its leading edge by about 1/64". Unfortunately, it has a nick in it right at the most worn spot. It order to file the edge of the chip breaker square and true will probably require taking off 1/32" or a little less material.

Should I file off that much metal from the end of the chip breaker, leave it alone or something else? Buying another would be a last resort.

Is there a good source on line for dating Stanley planes? I have'nt found one.
:confused:

[Larry James]

Woodworking at Rex Mill
https://home.comcast.net/~rarebear/planes101/typing/typing.htm

Patrick's Blood and Gore
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html

Also see -
SMC Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs

Item 7 - Rehabbing Old Tools - Metallic Planes

Rehabbing old planes, Bob Smalser and 
Fettling old metal planes, Jim Koepke

Larry

[Chris Vandiver]

Posting a photo would help identify the problem, if there is one.

This site is good for dating Stanley Bailey planes: http://www.rexmill.com/

[Jim Koepke]

Having Bailey on it is a good start, it was made 1902 or later.

A frog adjustment screw was added in about 1907.

The brass blade adjuster was 1" until 1920 when it changed to 1-1/4".

A cast ring started showing up around the knob in about 1929.

All bets are off for WW II. Many had non-rosewood handles. The brass adjusters and other brass parts were changed to steel or plastic.

After that, I do not pay much attention. Heck, I usually don't pay much attention to any with a raised ring around the knob since I like to have low knobs on my planes.

The chip breaker is fairly soft and easy to bend if needed after filing.

If it isn't causing a problem, I wouldn't mess with it. The less metal removed the better.

I almost always buy extra blades for my planes. Often they come with the cap iron/chip breaker.

Stanley has replacements listed for $17.50 plus shipping.

stanleytoolparts.com/planes.html

jim

[Dan Andrews]

Thanks Larry, Chris and Jim. I have already found the info. you have given to be most usefull. I have been able to date the plane as a type 11, 1910-1918. Same as my #5 that I like so much.

Following Jim's advise, I will sparingly file off a small burr sticking up from the nick in the cap iron, and leave the slight concave alone at least until I get the rest of the plane rehabed and try it out.

[Dan Andrews]

Yesterday I attempted to straiten the iron. It was bent upwards a bit on the upper end. I then ground a new bevel edge on it, but found it ended up with a skew (fro one side to the other) I had not intended to be there. I checked my set-up on the grinder and everything was good and square. Closer inspeciton revealed a twist in the overall length of the iron. I straighted that as best I could and ground it a bit more. I still have some bevel leaving about 1/32" exposed at one side of the cap iron and 1/16" exposed at the other end of the cap iron.

There are very slight waves and humps throughout the entire iron. I am now in the market for a new or good used iron. I am also curious how well it will work as is. When I get the refinishing done and the plane reassembled I guess I will find out.

Otherwise the refinishing process is going along well. I will post a pic or two when done.

[David Weaver]

Dan - given that you got the plane for a song, you could always consider a hock iron and chipbreaker for about $60, i think, including shipping. Craftsmanstudio has had them on a permanent sale and I haven't gotten one yet that's a dog.

If that's too much money, your best bet is to find an iron/chipbreaker of reasonable vintage on ebay - 2 3/8s. Shouldn't be more than about $10 + shipping.

[Dan Andrews]

I am going to start a new thread "Stanley 7 C refinish pics" because I have included a couple other tools I bought at the same time.

David, Thanks, I think I will start watching for a better iron.

[Johnny Kleso]

Hi Dan,
If it was me I would buy a replacement blde from Stanley or another better maker but at the least buy one from Stanley

http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?TYPE=STATICLEFT&PAGE=Support.htm&LEFT=left_support.htm

Call them to order and check the Parts and Service link

New Cap Iron and Blade is $17.50
http://www.stanleytoolparts.com/12-325-1-02-0c-02.html

Glade to see people are still using my website as a reference, I hope to do more updating soon..

[Jim Koepke]

Glade to see people are still using my website as a reference, I hope to do more updating soon..



The pictures in the type study make it my favorite for ease of use.

I do have an old copy of a type study from the days before your site. I have been adding my own text and pictures. But since the majority of the writing is not my work, it is not for public distribution.

jtk