Veritas MK II Question on Use

[Robert Steele]

I have just received the Veritas MK II sharpening Jig.

My question is very basic, I noticed that the roller on the Jig is Brass, so If I am to use this with say the scary sharp system, will I end up with the brass roller mis-used when rolling on the wet/dry grits of sandpaper? Or should
one just stay off the paper with the roller of the Jig? Even when staying off the paper, I noticed that the metal waste on the granite tile, causing very small pits in the Brass Roller. Should I worry about this?:confused:

Suggestions comments all welcome

Thanks Bob

[Van Huskey]

I have just received the Veritas MK II sharpening Jig.

My question is very basic, I noticed that the roller on the Jig is Brass, so If I am to use this with say the scary sharp system, will I end up with the brass roller mis-used when rolling on the wet/dry grits of sandpaper? Or should
one just stay off the paper with the roller of the Jig? Even when staying off the paper, I noticed that the metal waste on the granite tile, causing very small pits in the Brass Roller. Should I worry about this?:confused:

Suggestions comments all welcome

Thanks Bob

You may get better answers in the Neader section, over here if it doesn't have a power cord...

[David Weaver]

You shouldn't have any issue unless you gunk the wheel up with abrasive to the point it doesn't turn freely, and you're dragging across paper essentially slowly sanding it.

They do sell extra wheels, IIRC, but it should be a very very long time before you'd need one. I don't use mine enough to state how long I think that'd be, but the same issue exists with any guide, and for a while, I used the eclipse style guide a lot and noticed the wheel getting some cosmetic wear, especially when I used it with a belt sander a couple of times (:eek::D - wouldn't do that with the MKII).

Though marking showed up on the wheel from the wear, it was clear that it was just cosmetic. I still use that jig from time to time with no issues.

[John Coloccia]

I wouldn't worry about it until it stopped sharpening properly. That will be a very long time :)

Remember that people sharpened by hand for years, and they can get just as sharp as folks with jigs, and and many cases sharper. Whatever you do to that roller is pretty minor compared to how accurately even an experienced woodworker can do by hand.

And...you can get replacement rollers.

[Matthew Hills]

You shouldn't be putting much force on the roller end. Just enough to keep it in contact with the surface. And you'll wear less if you primarily move in line with the direction it rolls (rather than sliding it with a diagonal motion)

I use waterstones, but similar abrasion issues would exist there, too.

Matt

[Jacob Mac]

I stay off the paper with my roller. I do not know if it matters that much, but it is how I do things. The MKII is fantastic for BU planes. It might be overkill for chisels and standard planes, but I get consistently sharper blades with it then I do without.

[Zach England]

I put a drop of oil in mine now and then so it doesn't drag. I don't think it is a problem. I've had one for a year or so and have abused it quite a bit, including once using it on a belt sander, and it still works great.

[Phillip Ngan]

I agree that the roller wear you would experience is negligible. One trap for newbies (and not so newbie) with this honing guide is to make sure the micro-bevel setting is set to normal when grinding your primary bevel. Otherwise you will create a primary bevel that is too steep, and making it shallower will be lots of unrewarding work.

[Jacob Mac]

I agree that the roller wear you would experience is negligible. One trap for newbies (and not so newbie) with this honing guide is to make sure the micro-bevel setting is set to normal when grinding your primary bevel. Otherwise you will create a primary bevel that is too steep, and making it shallower will be lots of unrewarding work.


Great point. DAMHIKT.

[Gary Herrmann]

Clean the roller when you're done. You won't have any problems.