Waterproof finish for boxes.

[John M. Cioffi]

I'm renovating my friend's hair salon & one of the projects are to make some boxes to hold the large pump bottles that sit on the counter above the sinks. So far, I've been using the Helmsman Spar Urethane, which seems to work well; but these boxes will be cleaned every day on the inside, by running under warm water & dried. They will be made from Cherry. What is the best way to "waterproof" the wood to withstand the water cleanup? I'd like something stronger than what I'm using. I've been looking into the Mirror Coat & Systems Three type stuff. Is that all there is, or is there something better - BUT not expensive?:confused:
Thanks,
John

[Scott Holmes]

Exterior spar varnish is much softer and more flexible than interior varnishes.

Exterior varnishes are also LESS waterproof and LESS water-vapor Pproof than interior varnishes.

Best waterproofing varnish (none are truely water or water vapor proof) IMHO is WATERLOX Original. My reason for this recommendation is that varnish made with tung oil is more waterproof and more water vapor proof than varnishes made with soya oil or linseed oil. THIS is tung oil's ONLY real claim to fame.

Marketing folks have made tung oil the end-all-be-all finish; which it is NOT.

[Prashun Patel]

How about making them out of teak instead and leaving them unfinished?
Just sayin'.

[John M. Cioffi]

Prashun,
I'm not leaving them unfinished. I'm using Chery wood & would like to find a waterproof type finish for the inside & outside.
Thanks for your response.:)
John

[Joe Chritz]

The reason you get other options is because you are asking for plastic type service from wood, which really isn't an option.

If you want it to last and still use cherry you have three options.

1st: Build it with waterproof glue and do a very through finish job with quality tung oil varnish. Waterlox really is the best at this. Plan on refinishing every so often. The actual time between is hard to guess but yearly I bet if it is getting washed out 5 days or more a week.

2nd: Build a cherry box with a liner from bent and welded stainless steel or plastic. Will allow you to clean the liner and not mess with the wood. A pretty good option.

3rd: Use an epoxy that is designed for full submersion. West systems is supposed to be the best (and most expensive). Google plywood aquarium tank and you should find lots of info on waterproofing stuff this way. Wood movement may be an issue if solid wood is used. A call to west would definitely be in order.

You are restrained by the working properties of the medium at hand.

Joe

[Prashun Patel]

1st: Build it with waterproof glue and do a very through finish job with quality tung oil varnish.

In fact, don't get hung up on the tung oil part of that. It'll just confuse you. Any quality varnish is yr best choice of topcoat.

Some reputable varnishes are: Pratt & Lambert #38, Waterlox (Original Sealer, as well as the Marine Varnish), and Behlen's Rockhard Tabletop Varnish.

You can also use a quality polyurethane varnish, but as with epoxy, the best protection will be achieved with a two-part system. Check out System Three's WR-LPU.

[John M. Cioffi]

Hi All,
Thanks for your expert replies for my situation.
Another thought I have is - I'm currently using the Helmsmen Spar Urethane on countertops & trim. Could I purchase the pure tongue oil from Woodcraft & mix the 2 together for the same results as the "expensive" Waterlox? The budget is beginning to wane & they are looking for more in-expensive solutions. :confused:
Part 2.
How well do these finishes work on top of wood, if hair dyes, chemicals, ect. spill on it. Is it an easy wipe up or does it stain in right away? Now, I have to re-do a counter top in the back area!:eek:!

[Scott Holmes]

Hi All,
...I'm currently using the Helmsmen Spar Urethane on countertops & trim. Could I purchase the pure tongue oil from Woodcraft & mix the 2 together for the same results as the "expensive" Waterlox?

Part 2.
How well do these finishes work on top of wood, if hair dyes, chemicals, ect. spill on it. Is it an easy wipe up or does it stain in right away? Now, I have to re-do a counter top in the back area!:eek:!


Absolutely NOT !!! Spar and tung oil would be an oil/varnish blend; an IN-THE-WOOD only finish NO film what so ever.

Not nearly as durable as WATERLOX Original. If you look at the cost of the wood, your time, etc. the extra $ for a quality finish is minimal.

Plus using the wrong finish will force you to RE_Finish it in the future so add the cost of the stripper then more finish to the equation.

[John M. Cioffi]

That is a good point, Scott.
I've been told that the Systems Three epoxy is the best way to go, as it already has the waterproofing properties to withstand the washings for a lot longer time.
One of the furnituremakers said to use dichromium phosphate? 1st with tongue oil 2nd & then the epoxy.
This is more strenuous than antisipated, & I haven't started it yet!!:eek:

[Scott Holmes]

The epoxy isn't going to like the tung oil...

Seal it in with shellac if you feel you must use the oil.