Which Table Saw Should I Go With?

[Eric Wheeler]

Ok All,

A nice used Delta table saw is next on my list. I am still awaiting for a couple emails for model numbers, of some near me, but the ones I have thus far are...

34-670
36-380
34-338

I will add the other few as they come, but for now, could you tell me which one would be most preferred. I know the condition/price may affect this, but I'll have to be the judge of that on my own, what I want to know is opinions as far as probable durability and function of the saw...as in is any of them a "homeowner" model that should be avoided, and are any more of a professional/contractor model. I can't seem to find much info on these except parts.

[Cary Falk]

From the parts diagrams, it looks like the 34-338 is the only saw that is belt driven . The other 2 look like direct drive universal motors. If this is the case, go with the one with the Induction motor with belt drive(34-338).

[Eric Wheeler]

From the parts diagrams, it looks like the 34-338 is the only saw that is belt driven . The other 2 look like direct drive universal motors. If this is the case, go with the one with the Induction motor with belt drive(34-338).

So is it safe to assume that direct drive is most always going to be a universal motor as far as table saws go? I found a thread on here about one of the models mentioned (I believe) that was saying that belt drive isn't all that great cuz the belt can slip, etc. Obviously I have me some more learnin to do

[Cary Falk]

So is it safe to assume that direct drive is most always going to be a universal motor as far as table saws go? I found a thread on here about one of the models mentioned (I believe) that was saying that belt drive isn't all that great cuz the belt can slip, etc. Obviously I have me some more learnin to do
I would say it is a pretty safe bet that direct drive would mean universal motors when you are talking about Delta, Craftsman, etc table saws. You want something with a 1.5hp induction motor, cast iron winds and a decent fence if you can find it. I would rather deal with belt slip with an induction motor rather than a universal motor.

[Jim Heffner]

Without a doubt...the belt driven unit, biggest induction motor...no comparison! If a craftsman, older flex drive "whop, whop" saw comes along
don't remember the model number right now...just pass it up and keep on moving.

[Eric Wheeler]

So are all the better saws going to be belt drive...which will typically infer induction motor?

[Will Overton]

I found a thread on here about one of the models mentioned (I believe) that was saying that belt drive isn't all that great cuz the belt can slip, etc.

That's why you can't do all your research on forums. Not everybody knows what they are talking about, but everybody has an opinion.

And, in my opinion, a belt drive saw is usually better. That doesn't mean, particularly (but not limited to) when buying used, that you may not find that an available direct drive is better than an available belt drive. With used tools, you need to take into account what the manufacturer put into it, as well as what the previous owner did to it, in order to properly evaluate the tool.

I buy mostly new, and still have enough trouble deciding what to get.

[Callan Campbell]

But those models that have the arbor as part of the motor will probably be lowered powered than the belt drive models you're looking at. I had a Craftsman direct drive TS for 15 years, it was a true induction motor,but just a blip in the power dept.;);). Only 1HP, but it was a cheap starter saw. Hold out for what you want, and you'll be happier.

[Eric Wheeler]

That's why you can't do all your research on forums. Not everybody knows what they are talking about, but everybody has an opinion.

And, in my opinion, a belt drive saw is usually better. That doesn't mean, particularly (but not limited to) when buying used, that you may not find that an available direct drive is better than an available belt drive. With used tools, you need to take into account what the manufacturer put into it, as well as what the previous owner did to it, in order to properly evaluate the tool.

I buy mostly new, and still have enough trouble deciding what to get.

I try not to do all my research on forums...but problem is a lot of the things I am looking into are so old the only info I can find is parts diagrams, a manual if I am lucky, and info on these forums. I do agree that not everyone knows what they are talking about, but have an opinion, that's why I brought it back up, to get more opinions on it.

I'm kinda curious as to why they would make a saw belt driven. I guess maybe different size pulleys to make the blade a different RPM than the motor; or if trying to cut something so big it bogs the saw, it'll burn up the belt, not the motor. I guess it makes sense, maybe its a cost of production issue. The price of an induction motor designed with enough power and the RPM they want the blade spinning is pricey or needs to be special made, where as an off the shelf induction motor with the power needed is too fast, so they gear it down with a belt and pulleys...just some ideas, who knows. I guess belt driven isn't all bad, I've got a number of things that are belt driven without problems.

So, thus far I am looking at the 34-338. I am awaiting emails on three more to see what models they are, but one states that it is 3 HP. So I'm thinking its gotta be 220V. Unless it is new enough where they got caught up into the scheme of using the surge current to calculate the power. Cuz in all reality it is impossible to get much more than 2 HP out of 120V. Anyway, it'd be nice to have it 220V, but since I only have 120V going to my barn, it prolly wouldn't be a good buy for me as I am renting right now...option to buy, but we've been seriously considering a move to Alaska. So to run wiring isn't a great idea.

[Will Overton]

Unless it is new enough where they got caught up into the scheme of using the surge current

Good point, but nothing new about it. Until Sears came out with their hybrid saws (marked correctly) around 2004-2005, almost all Craftsman table saws were labeled 'Peak HP'. This was usually double the continuous hp.

As for 'why belt drive?' Another trip to the library is in order. There are plenty of books available on table saws. If you learn about the tool first, you won't need to base your decisions totally on other's opinions.

One thing belt drive does is ease the stress applied directly to the motor.

[Eric Wheeler]

Good point, but nothing new about it. Until Sears came out with their hybrid saws (marked correctly) around 2004-2005, almost all Craftsman table saws were labeled 'Peak HP'. This was usually double the continuous hp.

As for 'why belt drive?' Another trip to the library is in order. There are plenty of books available on table saws. If you learn about the tool first, you won't need to base your decisions totally on other's opinions.

One thing belt drive does is ease the stress applied directly to the motor.

I didn't mean new, new...Just new enough. They didn't always label peak hp a far as I know, it wasn't until they started getting really big into advertisement. I think air compressors did it the worst of anything. But even garden tractors have it bad. You can find an old tractor that is rated like 8 HP that will do the same as prolly a new 20 HP tractor. So what I meant was unless it was made in the past 15, maybe 20 years where they started all this advertisement of absolute friggin maximum power this motor will see milliseconds before blowing smoke, it's prolly 220V.

Yeah, I may have to make another trip to library cuz internet findings is slim. I have used plenty of table saws, but never cared about details cuz they weren't mine and I was never in the market for one. Now I must learn all this stuff so I can be happy with my decision of purchase.

[Randall Clark]

I have a 34-670 and it is a direct drive that bogs down on hardwoods even after I have changed brushes and the belt within the motor. I bought it 20 years ago when I was ignorant and didn't have the wisdom of the Creekers. I now have a belt driven saw and it is much more powerful.

[Greg Book]

I also had a 34-670, bought around 1992. It was $350 new at the time, and it worked for me for years, but it was very very underpowered and LOUD. I now have the Craftsman 21833. Assuming you can get a craftsman without manufacturing defects, its a good saw for the price.

Either way, stick with an induction motor, they are so much quieter.

[Rod Sheridan]

Many direct drive saws do have an induction motor, I recently repaired one that had a bad starting relay.

Less expensive or portable direct drive saws often have wound rotor motor (brushes) and they are loud and have a much shorter lifespan.

As you pay more money and get more features (external motor) you generally get a better saw.

You're better off paying more than you planned, and avoiding the upgrade down the road.

Regards, Rod.

[Mike OMelia]

I am going to go against the grain of "pay more than you planned". Not because it is bad advice, it is indeed good advice. But in practice, most folks have what they have to spend and that is just that. So, I would modify slightly and say buy the BEST you can for your money. IE, stay away from, say, Harbor Frieght big box tools unless you know without a doubt it has good resale value. If the tool you buy has good resale value, then take darn good care of it and when the time comes for an upgrade, sell your old and buy the new.

Again, this advice only works with tools that have excellent resale value.

Another avenue is to be the guy that buys the used from the guy that is upgrading and took care of his name brand tools. Another option is Scratch & Dent (Grizzly, Jet, etc have these). S&D is hit or miss... better to be close by an S&D dealer where you can go look at the tools. A guy at Jet told me that if the paint is scratch, they have to sell it S&D.

Mike

[Callan Campbell]

I try not to do all my research on forums...but problem is a lot of the things I am looking into are so old the only info I can find is parts diagrams, a manual if I am lucky, and info on these forums. I do agree that not everyone knows what they are talking about, but have an opinion, that's why I brought it back up, to get more opinions on it.

I'm kinda curious as to why they would make a saw belt driven. I guess maybe different size pulleys to make the blade a different RPM than the motor; or if trying to cut something so big it bogs the saw, it'll burn up the belt, not the motor. I guess it makes sense, maybe its a cost of production issue. The price of an induction motor designed with enough power and the RPM they want the blade spinning is pricey or needs to be special made, where as an off the shelf induction motor with the power needed is too fast, so they gear it down with a belt and pulleys...just some ideas, who knows. I guess belt driven isn't all bad, I've got a number of things that are belt driven without problems.

So, thus far I am looking at the 34-338. I am awaiting emails on three more to see what models they are, but one states that it is 3 HP. So I'm thinking its gotta be 220V. Unless it is new enough where they got caught up into the scheme of using the surge current to calculate the power. Cuz in all reality it is impossible to get much more than 2 HP out of 120V. Anyway, it'd be nice to have it 220V, but since I only have 120V going to my barn, it prolly wouldn't be a good buy for me as I am renting right now...option to buy, but we've been seriously considering a move to Alaska. So to run wiring isn't a great idea.

Direct drive saws are generally cheaper to make. The motor is also the arbor that you mount your blade on. Seperate parts like arbor assemblies and true trunnion assemblies make the price go up, so simply mounting a blade on a motor, and then supporting the motor for all the angles/height you want out of the blade is an inexpensive starting option. It also means putting all your eggs in one basket. If the motor bearings get worn, those are also your arbor bearings and your blade runout suffers too. If the blade binds, there's no belts that could slip and take the brunt of the damage from a stalled blade buried in wood. So, the motor could overhear or get damaged before the circuit breaker kicks out, or a thermoswitch in the motor kicks out. Cabinet saws use one or more very short belts to drive the motor power out to the arbor. And yeah, once you're moving above 2HP, it's usually a 220 volt motor that drives the saw. So it looks like 1 1/2 HP tp 2 HP is your max range within a simple, common household 110 volt circuit. Still, you have choices at this power level too.
Mounting the motor at the back/rear of the saw and driving the arbor which is back inside the main body of the saw is a classic contractor saw set-up. These were originally made to be more portable than an old style cabinet saw which contains all its guts inside a cabinet. The newest portable job site saws took over this task, and are almost always a universal motor with its noiser operation[think router or shopvac].
Anyway, Wait for what you really want, look over ALL the used saws out there, keep your money close in case you have to hoof it over and buy one on the spot, BUT, buy what you really want, and need, and can grow with, without getting ticked off 2 days after you've bought it cause you rushed into a deal.;)
People upgrading their equipment, dented models at a store or distribution center are all possibilities like others have posted. Think along these lines- 1 1/2HP as a minimum power drive if you plan to cut hardwood, esp thicker stock. Decent sized rails and fence, otherwise you'll have to upgrade them if needed. A dust collection port would be nice , but can be added on, it's just harder with the very open contractor style saws to collect dust effectively. You'd love to be able to run the saw before buying it, if possible, but with store models still in a box, that won't really be an option. Good Luck, and happy hunting....:D:D:D

[Prashun Patel]

Eric-

The spotty info on your saws is a red flag to me; it doesn't indicate they're bad, but feels like a bigger risk than is worth whatever low price you may be looking at.

So, I'll turn it around:

What do you want to spend?
Do you have - or are you willing to upgrade - to 220v?
How important is dust collection to you?
Are you space-constrained?

That might help steer you better.

[Eric Wheeler]

Eric-

The spotty info on your saws is a red flag to me; it doesn't indicate they're bad, but feels like a bigger risk than is worth whatever low price you may be looking at.

So, I'll turn it around:

What do you want to spend?
Do you have - or are you willing to upgrade - to 220v?
How important is dust collection to you?
Are you space-constrained?

That might help steer you better.

Well, right now I only want to spend about $100-$150 for a table saw that will get me started. Down the road I will upgrade and spend a lot more.

I don't have, nor do I want to upgrade to 220V as I am renting...it's my dad's g/f's house though, so I could if I wanted to, but I am in the process of contemplating moving to Alaska. Which is why I am looking for all these tools, as they would be hard to come across up there.

At this point dust collection is not important as I have no dust collector or anything anyway, however when I build a pole barn I plan to have a really good DC setup, so upgradable to dust collection would be nice, but won't make or break a deal

Space isn't much of an issue right now...I have 16x24 that doesn't have much in it. I can build a shed and shove the lawn stuff into there if space starts becoming an issue.

Another saw to add to the list is 34-429, but it is 200 miles away, but only $100, I have eliminated 2 other though, so as of now it is between 34-338 and the 429 just mentioned

[Jim Heffner]

I posted before about buying a belt drive saw over a direct drive one.
That is my general opinion as it is today. I know that years ago there were some saw mfg. companies that made heavy duty, direct drive saws that
were very, very powerful. These saws basically have disappeared from the market and were for all intents and purposes were industrial/ commercial saws not aimed at the homeowner, hobbyist woodworker.Most of them were more than what most people would ever need in their shops.Most of them used 12"-14" sized blades...not something you want or need in a home shop.

Most of the true belt driven saws have a good quality induction motor
with a "true" hp of 1 1/2 - 2hp. An electric motor operating on 120 volts
is not going to be able to develop more than this anyway. If a mfg. tells
or claims more ...he is merely using a sales tactic to build up his
product and hopefully persuade you to buy it. Craftsman saws have always been known to advertise a " developed Hp" rating, not the true hp of their saws. So, check around on other forums, and see if they are in agreement with what I said here, most people will tell you the same
as I did.