Replacement Plane Irons and chipbreakers

[Ashwini Kaul]

Hi Guys,
Now that I dont have to worry about putting my $$ into a vise - I have decided to tune-up my vintage planes before I jump into LV/LN stuff.

Here are the irons/chipbreakers I need to replace:
1. A 2-3/8 in Chip Breaker for my #7 jointer (MF)
2. A 2-3/8in A2 Bench Plane Blade for the #7 (MF)
3. A 2 in A2 Bench Plane Blade for the Jack (MF)
4. A 1-5/8in A2 Block Plane Blade w/7/16in Slot Width for the Stanley Block plane

I have looked at the following sources based upon reading previous post etc: Hock/LN/LV
Prices seem to follow that pattern too if I am not mistaken. I am not partial to one or the other. Craftsman studio sells Hocks for a discount and free shipping...
Did I miss a good source?
Any reason to spring for over another?
Is there any reason to consider O1 vs A2 in any of my choices (without getting into a lengthy debate over the virtues of either)?

Thank you for reading!

[David Weaver]

What do you use to sharpen?

Craftsman studio has the best price I've seen so far, especially when you consider you don't have to package it with another order to get it shipped.

[Ashwini Kaul]

What do you use to sharpen?



DMT (coarse/x-coarse) + Norton waterstone - 1000/4000/8000.

I am have spent hours to get the blade backs flat, but they are so out of whack ... the DMT doesnt quite cut it!
Also one of the chipbreakers is quite bent.

[David Weaver]

You can get the A2 or the high carbon, whichever suits you. Your stones will make them feel effectively the same with the possibility of the A2 irons having a bit more of a wire edge to deal with than the high carbon irons. In a jointer and a jack plane, might not make a difference at all to you, unless the jointer is leaving a final surface, and even then it shouldn't if you're paying attention to what's going on when you're sharpening.

They both last very well (edge-wise) in most of the stuff you'll probably plane.

You can get other brands of irons, thicker, etc, but they will cost you more and you may be filing mouths of planes, etc.

Save the coarse and x coarse DMT for working bevels and flattening waterstones. IME, they don't last that well if you do a lot of heavy flattening of new irons on them, and try as you might to use them with a light touch, sooner or later you'll lose patience and take all of the sting out of their cutting power. They do, though, work quickly on bevels and are fantastic for flattening stones when they're not worn out.

[James Scheffler]

In case you haven't checked it already, a critical factor in replacing a chipbreaker is to make sure the distance from the adjuster slot to the leading edge matches the original chipbreaker. LN suggests that they need to be within 0.01". For example, see here: http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=CB

Hock has similar diagrams for their chipbreakers on the Hock web site.

I have replacement Hock chipbreakers on three Stanley planes and I think it's a worthwhile upgrade.

Jim

[Terry Beadle]

If your chipbreaker is just bent a little, since it's made of soft steel, you should be able to lightly tap it back into a fairly straight edge. Then just re-fettle the edge.

If you chipbreaker is really bent ( I can't envision how that would occur in normal use or even a dropped plane. ), use a mapp torch to heat it up a little so that is is soft not red. Tap lightly back to straight and re-fettle.

Chipbrakers are not a precision componet like a blade. The are important for smoothers and not so much jointers or jacks. Flat fit to the face of the blade is the important aspect.

Maybe a picture of your bent chipbreaker would help.

[Zach England]

Another choice:

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=MS-RIIRON.XX&Category_Code=TR


I have two of these and I feel they are excellent.

[Jim Koepke]

Another choice:

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=MS-RIIRON.XX&Category_Code=TR


I have two of these and I feel they are excellent.

Interesting that they are going against the flat back grain.

jim

[Richard Dooling]

Shoot, I wish I had been aware of this a while back - it makes good sense and I have spent too much time flattening blade backs. The price is very competitive.

BTW I have landed firmly in the O1 camp. A2 is, for me, too much of a hassle and I always know I can get a very sharp edge that lasts very well - and I can get there very fast.
.


Another choice:

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/M...tegory_Code=TR (http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=MS-RIIRON.XX&Category_Code=TR)


I have two of these and I feel they are excellent. Today 10:02 AM

[Zach England]

Interesting that they are going against the flat back grain.

jim


I still flattened the very edge of the back, which I was able to do quickly. I think it is basically the same concept as a japanese chisel.