Buffing question

[Paul Singer]

I just bought some buffing wheels and working with the tripoli got great results. I then put some Renn Wax on the bowl and tried to buff it with another wheel and it just dulled the surface. I know you are suppose to season the wheels but how do you season a wheel with renn wax.

[John Keeton]

Paul, a little more info might help. Seems most 'buffing wheel systems' are predicated on the fiber content of the wheels. The tripoli wheel is usually 100% linen, the white diamond wheel 50/50 linen/cotton, and the wax wheel 100% cotton. That will effect the abrasive quality of the wheels to a slight degree.

I took a used 80 grit sanding pad, held on the edge of a 2" wide wood scrap, and held it on the wheels to pull out the loose fibers - have the DC going or a fan on!!!:eek:

Then, I think it just takes a while with using the various wheels to get them 'seasoned' for regular use.

You should get a slight satin sheen with the tripoli, a better gloss with the WD, and then top it off with the Ren wax for a consistent shine. I have not found the Ren wax to necessarily increase the actual gloss finish, but just give a little more consistency and clarity to the depth.

[Mike Null]

I agree with John. The wax makes the finish a little harder but does not add more sheen. My wax is carnauba that came with a Beall system 20 years ago.

[David Woodruff]

Paul, Purchase a buff rake and use initially on a new wheel to "season" and frequently to remove buildup of the various polishing materials used. Also as John mentioned various fiber combinations and sewing patterns are utilized to achieve different results. Go to Eastwood.com to purchase the "Buff Rake", about $15.00 and well spent. You will be glad you did. Quickly removes gunky, clunky stuff(tech term) to allow free fibers to do their job particularly the final wax buff. Also Eastwood has a good description of how the various wheels are designed to do a specific job.
I made a 3 buff system on a single 1" drill rod shaft x 36" length, then mounted on the Oneway between centers, then I can reverse and rake in both directions. I have found that varying the speed during polishing or buffing is also beneficial to prevent burning through the fiinish.

BTW I use Renaissance wax

[Paul Singer]

John: What I have right now is two buffing wheels from HarborFreight which are suppose to be 100% cotton. The one I have the tripoli on is working great. I have these on 3/8" bolts attached to a home made lathe adapter patterened after the Don Pencil one. Only mine is made of wood. I have the Tap so I made a 4" long cylinder and taped one end for 1 1/4" and put a 3/8" threaded insert in the other end. Wanted to try my hand before purchasing the good stuff. Works good except for the wax and I might be better off with the carnuba but don't have any right now.

[John Keeton]

Paul, I think you will see a marked difference with better quality buffing wheels. On the carnauba wax, just know that you probably should not use the same wheel for it and the Ren wax. The Ren wax is a petroleum product, as I recall, and should be used exclusively on a separate wheel.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use Ren wax with my Beall buffing system with no problems. I quit using carnuba wax because when people handle the pieces you get finger prints all over them and need to rebuff them. I just tossed the carnuba. It will take a bit to season the wheel with Ren wax.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Paul - it's been my experience that buffing makes a huge difference in the tactile qualities of a turning and is worth investing in the proper equipment. Also, once I changed over from carnuba wax to Ren - I find it is just as easy to wipe off the Ren by hand because the buff wheel didn't make that much difference. When using carnuba - you need the heat to spread the wax. Ren wax is a simple rub on/wipe off process.

[Paul Singer]

Steve: I will try you suggestion.

John: I knew these were not the best but I wanted something right now. I was really impressed with the results that the tripoli gave me it was when I used the renn wax that things went bad. I think Bernie's comment about it taking a while to season a wheel with renn wax made me decide to quit trying to buff the renn wax for now like Steve says.

I have read about people buying buffing wheels from Caswell. Wondered if these compare favorably with Beall products.

Thanks for all of the comments.

[patrick michael stein]

hi steve,
when buffing by hand what type of matiral do you use?






patrick:confused:

[Michael James]

I have read about people buying buffing wheels from Caswell. Wondered if these compare favorably with Beall products.

Thanks for all of the comments.

Paul, JK posted recommended the cloth materials, which I would consider more important than brand names. Im using HF wheels and happy with the results. I will probably switch the woven and unwoven wheels for more correct use in buffing and polishing. Good luck!
mj

[Gary Conklin]

I got mine from Caswell, great wheels, but you should know that they are 1/4 or 1/2? the thickness of the Beall wheels. I happen to like this fact as they don't seem to be as "grabby." I use the tiered wheel method that John refers to ending with the flannel wheel for the Ren wax.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Patrick - I just grab any old cotton T-shirt or flannel that I have laying around - as long as it is soft. This is the U.P. and flannel is considered essential for everyday living - so always have a few worn out shirts that I set aside for finishing work.

[Greg Bender]

Steve,
I agree with always having a used up Flannel to reuse but just curious,I understand about the flannel in the summer but what do you guys wear in the winter?:confused:
While we are on the buffing subject,I recently bought the Beall system and I'm still using the carnauba wax and was curious,does the renwax harden at all if you leave it on instaed of rubbing it off right away. Also Can you have too much tripoli on your wheel.I was getting smudges on my last bowl and had to start over by sanding the smudges off.Or am I pushing too hard.The finish,antique oil was drying over a week before buffing.
Thanx,Greg

[Barry Elder]

I have always been told to use the White Diamond after the Tripoli Compound as it is supposed to remove any Tripoli left on the wood. As far as the Ren Wax, it is an English concoction with a petroleum base. I have seen people put it on like car wax and if you let it dry it will definitely get very hard. It works better for me to rub in a light coat and wipe off soon. I do find that a piece that has Ren Wax on it is easier to maintain than a piece that has been buffed with Carnauba Wax. But it's a matter of personal preference.

[patrick michael stein]

steve,
thanks for the reply.





thanks
patrick

[Thom Sturgill]

I find that I get the best results by rubbing the ren wax on by hand, allowing it to dry for just a minute and polishing it off with one of those microfibre cloths.